Does anyone know what the options are for getting more speed out of the oxydrive kit. I average 21mph but would like to squeeze a bit more out of it. I was wondering if changing the battery to 48v would work, if there are other batteries that fit the oxydrive battery attachment Or if it’s possible to re cell the current battery to 48v?
An average speed of 21 mph sounds pretty good to me. The max speed on mine was initially 22 mph. Now, it's more like 19 mph. I assume it's the battery getting old.. 
If going 48v you will need a new controller which means a KT fitted remotely and an lcd3.
The 8Fun Cst is code 10 270rpm.
The DAS battery will hold 52 cells for a 4p 13s config thought he plastic cell spacer/seperater will ahve to be forfeited and cells will have to be packed tight together which I plan on doing one day, as I actually prefer the case shape compared to the Dolphin 09 case.
My choice of cell will be GA or VTC6.
The 8Fun Cst is code 10 270rpm.
The DAS battery will hold 52 cells for a 4p 13s config thought he plastic cell spacer/seperater will ahve to be forfeited and cells will have to be packed tight together which I plan on doing one day, as I actually prefer the case shape compared to the Dolphin 09 case.
My choice of cell will be GA or VTC6.
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You would have to remove the controller from the mounting base unit to make use of it. The + & - wire tails inside then need extending/soldering to reach the ext controller ones.
Existing one will go up in smoke if you connect 48v to it.
Existing one will go up in smoke if you connect 48v to it.
I'm splitting my OXYDrive F-series 13Ah kit (because the controller stopped working.)
I still have the Motor and the battery (with upgraded charger) if anyone interested PM me and we can make a deal. ( u need to collect it from North London, n29fe )
cheers
I still have the Motor and the battery (with upgraded charger) if anyone interested PM me and we can make a deal. ( u need to collect it from North London, n29fe )
cheers
Although the Oxydrive kit for me is no longer, I am still using the bullet proof CST hub. Today I fitted a CarryFreedom tow hitch and had to do some work/adjustment on the brake side to fit and align everything (the Dremel type tool came out of the box ), whilst I had the wheel removed noticed the tyre carcass brown belt was showing here and there so changed that.
Having put over 6.5 k on the hub I decided why not and took the wheel into the garage where I gave it a little service and inspection, 20 mins later job done.
The inside was perfect grease still plentiful smeared all over the shot and no signs of any water ingress (bike is used for errand and commuting 52 weeks a year in all weather). Bearings all tickety boo and rotating smoothly, the hub carrier for the cassette easily comes away and this was a little noisy so I dipped the end in some liquid grease and refitted. Now runs rotates virtually silent, there is little to do except check relevant bearings and grease if required.
Process for removing the drive is straight forward. Remove cassette and undo locknuts from hub carrier along with washers, slide off cassette hub carrier. Undo the six outer screws on the face plate, leave the three middle ones unless you want to fiddle about with the clutch etc.
On brake side remove the axle black retaining nut and biff the axle with a rubber or wooden mallet ( if need be), motor will either slide out easily or pop out if tight once axle is biffed. If water has ingressed then rust will be your enemy and if it does not part after biffing try a harder whack or use some heat from a hot air gun. With the motor out check the main centre bearing for smoothness and also brake side bearing, around the centre you can see the 16 motor magnets. Motor windings are clear to see and should generally be void of discoloration/burning. If adding more grease or cleaning old grease out use a non petroleum based one other wise the nylon clutch gears will suffer ( I use low friction lithium dark moly grease ). For bearings although sealed I give the faces a smear of pale liquid grease and also the same for the cassette hub carrier. Before refitting the cassette retainer nut I smear some white waterproof greases in the recess then tighten up. Motor should be good for another 3k before another once over.
Refitting is reversal though you need to align the axle key way for the motor assembly to slide in.
), whilst I had the wheel removed noticed the tyre carcass brown belt was showing here and there so changed that.Having put over 6.5 k on the hub I decided why not and took the wheel into the garage where I gave it a little service and inspection, 20 mins later job done.
The inside was perfect grease still plentiful smeared all over the shot and no signs of any water ingress (bike is used for errand and commuting 52 weeks a year in all weather). Bearings all tickety boo and rotating smoothly, the hub carrier for the cassette easily comes away and this was a little noisy so I dipped the end in some liquid grease and refitted. Now runs rotates virtually silent, there is little to do except check relevant bearings and grease if required.
Process for removing the drive is straight forward. Remove cassette and undo locknuts from hub carrier along with washers, slide off cassette hub carrier. Undo the six outer screws on the face plate, leave the three middle ones unless you want to fiddle about with the clutch etc.
On brake side remove the axle black retaining nut and biff the axle with a rubber or wooden mallet ( if need be), motor will either slide out easily or pop out if tight once axle is biffed. If water has ingressed then rust will be your enemy and if it does not part after biffing try a harder whack or use some heat from a hot air gun. With the motor out check the main centre bearing for smoothness and also brake side bearing, around the centre you can see the 16 motor magnets. Motor windings are clear to see and should generally be void of discoloration/burning. If adding more grease or cleaning old grease out use a non petroleum based one other wise the nylon clutch gears will suffer ( I use low friction lithium dark moly grease ). For bearings although sealed I give the faces a smear of pale liquid grease and also the same for the cassette hub carrier. Before refitting the cassette retainer nut I smear some white waterproof greases in the recess then tighten up. Motor should be good for another 3k before another once over.
Refitting is reversal though you need to align the axle key way for the motor assembly to slide in.
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Holy thread resurrection!
Hi all, been away for some time, have gotten heavily into electric unicycles for my sins and havent been on the bike at all, but went out on it the other day and this problem persists. I do however have a little more info now. If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated!
So, in addition to what I have posted previously, I saw that when this happens the LCD speed jumps about all over the place, up to 50+ mph at times, and when it does so I see the power meter drop off and thus all happens at the same time as the assist totally cuts. Within less than a second, everything goes back to normal and then process repeats, within seconds if the same load is being applied. I know its not the mag disc/sensor as its exactly the same when I hold the throttle open.
I opened the controller today and nothing untoward found. Plus all the components are sealed in a clear rubbery gel too. Mosfets look fine and no signs of overheat anywhere.
As before, all battery and plug connections are perfect and I am still getting amazing mileage from the battery.
Really scratching my head now. Should I open up the hub motor? Could it be sending a weird speed signal to the controller? Or is it more likely to be the LCD display?
Its a right pain as the problem still manifests primarily when under load, hills and such which is largly the main reason for having an ebike!
Holy Hand grenade batman!
I used to experience exactly this issue - it only happens when the motor is stalling - calling for too much current at a low speed, so going up hill with a high speed setting. Drop the power down to 1 or 2 as needed.
Thanks for the reply. When you say drop the power are you referring to the 3 power settings which are accessed by the menu, or do you actually mean the 6 speed settings accessed directly from the home screen?
I have always had my power on setting 3 as it gives me access to the highest speed when in 1 of the 6 speed settings. I dont really want to faff with menus every time I hit a hill.
Also did you screen show the speed going all over the place?
I must admit it feels exactly like a firmware overcurrent cut out but it doesnt seem to occur at the same load. Yes, its normally always under high loads but I dont think it has to be the same amount of load.
Maybe I will have to try and carry out some repeatability tests at the same speed on the same hill with the only variable being the speed setting?
All of it doesnt explain why the speed reading would fluctuate wildly either?!!
I have always had my power on setting 3 as it gives me access to the highest speed when in 1 of the 6 speed settings. I dont really want to faff with menus every time I hit a hill.
Also did you screen show the speed going all over the place?
I must admit it feels exactly like a firmware overcurrent cut out but it doesnt seem to occur at the same load. Yes, its normally always under high loads but I dont think it has to be the same amount of load.
Maybe I will have to try and carry out some repeatability tests at the same speed on the same hill with the only variable being the speed setting?
All of it doesnt explain why the speed reading would fluctuate wildly either?!!
Yeah, drop from 6 to 1 or 2. Yes the speed went all over the place - I think because the crank is hardly moving when you approach stall it can't actually measure anything properly - it only happens when I hit a hill and don't have enough speed or I'm in the wrong gear - exactly like a stall
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