My controller eventually went tits up, after the growling noise it made. The LVC kept cutting in despite having two charged batteries so the lcd kept swiching off.
In the end I kept the batteries and and hub motor and now use KT controllers etc.
In the end I kept the batteries and and hub motor and now use KT controllers etc.
D
Deleted member 4366
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A KT controller with LCD will work but you will have to do a lot of soldering and joining of wires. I guess that will be the same with any controller other than the Oxydrive one.
The only chance now of getting a replacement controller is from SYEBC in Rotherham. Your controller is identical in all respects to the one fitted to the previous version of the Oxygen Emate MTB. I'd be surprised if they don't still have spares.
The only chance now of getting a replacement controller is from SYEBC in Rotherham. Your controller is identical in all respects to the one fitted to the previous version of the Oxygen Emate MTB. I'd be surprised if they don't still have spares.
Hi all,
I am hoping someone here would have a quick answer for me. I have this kit installed on my wife's Decathlon bike - http://www.oxydrive.co.uk/electric-bike-kit/oxydrive-rc-11ah.html.
I am now seeing signs of metal stress in the front fork dropouts and am concerned that this is going to fail soon. So what I am thinking of doing is moving the kit to the rear wheel, and so I am now trying to check if there is any particular limits as to what hub motor I can use assuming it is also 36V. I have asked Andrew if he could supply only a rear wheeled motor and am waiting for a reply. In the meantime I am wondering if there would be any issues with a 36V rear wheeled motor from another supplier if Andrew can't do? Am I over complicating this or missing anything?
I am hoping someone here would have a quick answer for me. I have this kit installed on my wife's Decathlon bike - http://www.oxydrive.co.uk/electric-bike-kit/oxydrive-rc-11ah.html.
I am now seeing signs of metal stress in the front fork dropouts and am concerned that this is going to fail soon. So what I am thinking of doing is moving the kit to the rear wheel, and so I am now trying to check if there is any particular limits as to what hub motor I can use assuming it is also 36V. I have asked Andrew if he could supply only a rear wheeled motor and am waiting for a reply. In the meantime I am wondering if there would be any issues with a 36V rear wheeled motor from another supplier if Andrew can't do? Am I over complicating this or missing anything?
D
Deleted member 4366
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You can fit any rear motor as long as it has hall sensors, which is most of them. That's the easy bit. Now it gets more complicated.
If you have cassette gears (8 speed or more), you need a cassette motor (spline for cassette). If you have 7-speed or less, you need a freewheel motor (thread for free-wheel).
You need a motor with a nine-pin connector unless you don't mind cutting off the connectors and soldering the nine wires together.
You need a motor with an internal speed sensor unless you don't mind hacking the wiring at the controller end to splice in an external speed sensor.
I don't know anybody in the UK that sells a motor wheel on its own, so you have to get one from China, which is no problem, but shipping is expensive for complete wheels.
If I were in your position, I'd buy a 260 rpm Q100H as bare motor and get it built into a rim in the UK. that will cost £100 for the motor, maybe £15 duty, £30 for the rim and spokes and about £30 for building unless you can do it yourself. There's a 201 rpm version as well that will have better climbing efficiency, but max speed is only about 15 mph.
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/631-q100h-36v350w-rear-driving-ebike-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html?search_query=q100h&results=5#/327-rpm-260
If you have cassette gears, it's the Q100C, which only comes in 201 rpm flavour, so slower than the Q100H.
On Aliexpress, there are all sorts of weird and wonderful motors that would do the job. You just have to search through all the listings.
If you have cassette gears (8 speed or more), you need a cassette motor (spline for cassette). If you have 7-speed or less, you need a freewheel motor (thread for free-wheel).
You need a motor with a nine-pin connector unless you don't mind cutting off the connectors and soldering the nine wires together.
You need a motor with an internal speed sensor unless you don't mind hacking the wiring at the controller end to splice in an external speed sensor.
I don't know anybody in the UK that sells a motor wheel on its own, so you have to get one from China, which is no problem, but shipping is expensive for complete wheels.
If I were in your position, I'd buy a 260 rpm Q100H as bare motor and get it built into a rim in the UK. that will cost £100 for the motor, maybe £15 duty, £30 for the rim and spokes and about £30 for building unless you can do it yourself. There's a 201 rpm version as well that will have better climbing efficiency, but max speed is only about 15 mph.
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/631-q100h-36v350w-rear-driving-ebike-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html?search_query=q100h&results=5#/327-rpm-260
If you have cassette gears, it's the Q100C, which only comes in 201 rpm flavour, so slower than the Q100H.
On Aliexpress, there are all sorts of weird and wonderful motors that would do the job. You just have to search through all the listings.
Many thanks for taking the time to reply so quick and with so much detail. I have some homework to do I see! So if I get a motor as suggested with a 9-pin connector then I assume the current controller will work and along with that the rest of the kit as well?
Or replace the Decathlon's forks with a fork with meaty dropouts. If it is 700c then a Suntour NEX fork is very good, I have a bpm in one with over 2k miles done and no signs of fatigue
D
Deleted member 4366
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Yes, I also considered getting another fork but would really need to be confident that it will not fail as it is my wife who will be using the bike most of the time. I was not sure what fork to consider but will take a look at the Suntour you suggested. Do you have a torque arm you can recommend for use with this fork?
I made my own and tapped them directly to the fork, the drop out is very meaty and has a flat triangulated area to the front of the D/O and at about £50 odd not very expensive. Only about 65mm of travel but enough for most needs and super strong D/O.
The fork and bpm are no longer fitted to my Norco 700c, I laced the bpm in to a 26" wheel and use it in the 700c fork on a h/t mtb the fork gives a lot more mud clearance above it can get up to 2.25" tyre in it.
The fork and bpm are no longer fitted to my Norco 700c, I laced the bpm in to a 26" wheel and use it in the 700c fork on a h/t mtb the fork gives a lot more mud clearance above it can get up to 2.25" tyre in it.
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D
Deleted member 4366
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It doesn't really matter what you do, fitting a motor to aluminium or magnesium forks is never without risk because both materials are prone to fatigue failure.
If your forks are already cracked, you could consider geinding the dropouts off to leave just the basic aluminium tube, then make a steel cover out of say 100mm of steel tube with a new drop-out welded to it. Epoxy it over the old fork.
If your forks are already cracked, you could consider geinding the dropouts off to leave just the basic aluminium tube, then make a steel cover out of say 100mm of steel tube with a new drop-out welded to it. Epoxy it over the old fork.
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Deleted member 4366
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yeah, I found them in google, contacted them 4 days ago, still waiting for reply.
looks like u cannot buy it online, which is weird.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
You can put any small controller in there. Take it out of its aluminium box and screw it to the heatsink in the Oxydrive box, like the original one. The only thing you can't get is the cable arrangement, so you have splice all the cables, which is not really a big job. It's probably best to get a new LCD too because the Oxygen one only works with the a Li Shui controller, and even then, only on certain ones.
Wish I could do that.
My controller is broke in half, the but that holds the battery has separated.
So I need to new one
D
Deleted member 4366
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D
Deleted member 4366
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