Oxydrive kits

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Walt11

Finding my (electric) wheels
Aug 30, 2016
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France
It doesn't really matter what you do, fitting a motor to aluminium or magnesium forks is never without risk because both materials are prone to fatigue failure.

If your forks are already cracked, you could consider geinding the dropouts off to leave just the basic aluminium tube, then make a steel cover out of say 100mm of steel tube with a new drop-out welded to it. Epoxy it over the old fork.
I agree, if I was using the bike then perhaps I would chance it but I think under the circumstances I will go either with a new rear wheel motor or a steel fork as per your post below. Thanks again for your and Nealh's time taken in answering my questions!
 
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silles

Pedelecer
Dec 3, 2015
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does anyone know where to get a new c6 lcd other than oxydrive co uk?

mine broke and oxydrive support is useless, they not reply to any of my emails.
 

Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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I have a used Oxydrive C302 lcd spare from my CST kit, the integrated controller went wrong so now I have gone over to using KT components. It has six pas levels and 3 current levels.

P.M if of use or interested.
 
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Deleted member 4366

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The Das Kit Oxydrive kit is identical to the electrical parts on the Oxygen Emate MTB, so you should be able to get any spares from SYEBC.

Andrew has wound down Oxydrive and AFAIK isn't buying any more stock, but he has a friend who sold the same stuff in Poland in much higher quantities, so he can still get stuff for long-term support. I know that he's very busy with his CNC workshop, which is several hours from his home and he doesn't go home that often, which might be the cause of delays.
 

silles

Pedelecer
Dec 3, 2015
47
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45
The Das Kit Oxydrive kit is identical to the electrical parts on the Oxygen Emate MTB, so you should be able to get any spares from SYEBC.

Andrew has wound down Oxydrive and AFAIK isn't buying any more stock, but he has a friend who sold the same stuff in Poland in much higher quantities, so he can still get stuff for long-term support. I know that he's very busy with his CNC workshop, which is several hours from his home and he doesn't go home that often, which might be the cause of delays.
ah thanks good to know that we are left unsupported, £699 goes down the drain :(

also why is he not shutting down the website? Looks like u can still order and pay for stuff
 
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ah thanks good to know that we are left unsupported, £699 goes down the drain :(
I didn't say that at all.

Even if there was no support, all the stuff is standard. You can buy controllers, displays sensors and motors from many places. When the battery wears out, you can get it re-celled to a higher specification for less money than an OEM replacement here:
https://ebikebatteries.co.uk/
 
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silles

Pedelecer
Dec 3, 2015
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I didn't say that at all.

Even if there was no support, all the stuff is standard. You can buy controllers, displays sensors and motors from many places. When the battery wears out, you can get it re-celled to a higher specification for less money than an OEM replacement here:
https://ebikebatteries.co.uk/
do u know where I can got the lcd 6 and the controller? or anything that is compatible ? my batter / motor is still good as new
 

Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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Bigstone C300 lcd.

Connectors;
Yellow = for throttle.
Small black = for brake cut out sensor.
Large multi pin black = for controller cable.


DSCF0079.JPG DSCF0080.JPG DSCF0085.JPG DSCF0086.JPG
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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Oh well 3 in 5 won't go. One extra one is probably another brake cut out and the other will be for remote switch pad.
 

silles

Pedelecer
Dec 3, 2015
47
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Oh well 3 in 5 won't go. One extra one is probably another brake cut out and the other will be for remote switch pad.
Sorry i cannot see it on your pics:
How many pins does the controller cable have? mine has 8

I don't care about the rest ( throttle and one 1 cut-off)

Cheers

20180329_182347.jpg
 
D

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I've just been through all my spare parts and found one of those displays. I took it off a bike that had corrosion in the display connector. The corrosion was so bad that a pin broke off the main harness and is stuck in the display's connector. I don't know if it still works, but I think that there's a good chance that it does. You can have it for nothing if you want to pay for the postage or collect it from Telford. You will need to swap connectors with your one because it's main connector is U/S. Alternatively, you can send me yours and I'll attempt to swap the connectors, but you have to pay the postage both ways - about £3 each way with Collect Plus.

I'd say about a 75% chance that it would be OK with a new connector, but I can't test it until I fit one.

You could unsolder your connector and send it to me, then I can test it and let you know if its OK.
 

silles

Pedelecer
Dec 3, 2015
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hi, thanks but, I decided to ditch this whole e-bike idea and going back to have a road bike.

I have some working leftover from the kit if anyone interested PM me, otherwise they might end up in the bin:

- OXYDrive downtube 13Ah-black
- Front Hub Bafang motor
- Upgraded Battery charger.
 

pt36

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 26, 2018
12
1
Hello, please does anyone know whether spare battery output sockets for the CST HT 36V 13Ah battery are available? (the floating socket that pushes onto the controller pins). I have three packs, two have intermittent connections on the positive wire side output (loose socket contact force felt with some 3mm copper wire) and ocasionally intermittent power loss in use.

I've ordered some 3 mm bullet female crimps in case they can be used to repair them somehow? - will find out soon (I do frequently remove the battery packs to swap when carrying a second in a backpack or when putting the bike into the car)

Also would be keen to buy the plastic slide plate for the packs to slide onto if possible, lots of superglue holding pieces of mine together!

(Contact us not working on Oxydrive, I send Das-Kit an email asking if spare sockets are available, but no answer)
 

pt36

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 26, 2018
12
1
Buying new sockets will be a hell of a lot easier if any are available, but I've fixed an intermittent output socket contact with brute force:

3mm female bullet crimp: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UONOFHM
1. Turn off and open battery pack, cut off heatshrink, and unsolder the two wires from the output socket
2. Warm socket with hot air gun and dig out the grey plastic from around the six socket solder pins
3. Cut/lever apart the two plastic halves of the socket (warm again first)
4. Heat a little with soldering iron and pull out the loose socket insert (tell which one is loose using 3mm copper wire)
5. With drill bit held in pliers, widen hole with 4.0, 4.5 and then 5.0 drill bits (but dont drill through the front face plastic)
6. Grind off 1mm from front of new crip with Dremel so socket contact pressure point is closer to the front (otherwise probably won't make a good connection onto the controller pin)
7. Insert crimp into hole
8. Squeeze together the wire end of the crimp to close the open gap (to later solder into)
9. Apply superglue and hold two plastic halves together with needle pliers
10. Unroll the front of a second socket crimp and cut off to create an approx 10x10mm plate
11. Cut small middle pins as short as possible to avoid short circuits to the plate
12. Glue plate to plastic sides to restrain the new crimp socket from pushing out
13. Resolder wires (+ and - are marked on the front of the socket plastic, the + side locates on the charger input side of the battery pack)
14. Use Dremel grinding wheel to remove a little plastic on the case to allow the connector to refit with the added plate