Oxydrive kits

[Ian_Fearn]

I've just ordered a set of Cycleeze's ebay torque arms. Thanks for all the info, massively helpful.

Does anybody know if you can get USB powered bike lights?? The Samsung battery apparently has a USB charging facility so I wondered if it was possible to run lights from it?

 

[RobF]

Lots of lights are usb rechargeable, but the advice from the maker is not to run the light at the same time as it charges.

My guess is usb does not put out enough poke to run reasonably bright bike lights, and you would, of course, need two.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You'd be much better off with a Banggood light that can run off battery voltage, but for that, you'd have to open the controller compartment to get access to the battery wires. There's also battery wires that go to the display, but they're not so thick and you'd have to cut into the cable to find them.

http://www.banggood.com/LED10-U_S-CREE-U2-Chip-10W-Motorcycle-Headlight-Motor-Lamps-HiLo-Beam-p-936965.html

 

[Ian_Fearn]

These look good but I'm probably a way off cutting into the new kit I've not even seen yet!

I was hoping to get something straightforward to start using in 10 days or so. I'll probably just take the lights from my Brompton as a short term measure.

 

[selrahc1992]

It's Allen-uk's bike, which I converted for him. Note the horizontal drop-outs. Never use such a bike for a conversion: It's almost impossible to get the wheel in. You have to remove the mudguard first, which is a pain, but then gravity works against you. The only way I could get the motor in was to stand the bike on its head, so I was working downwards. Also, the drop-outs make the wire come out at the wrong angle so it's not so easy to get a nice drip loop. The wire needs to exit downwards. The shop recommended this bike as being perfect for his conversion. I think that they want their heads tested!

yikes, hadnt noticed the dropouts, benefit of those over regular slanted vintage raleigh type beats me, but the colour's great enough to make me wonder how difficulta repaint can possibly be

 

[robbyheansen]

Wow! So many people in there!
I am a guy that sell you best lithium battery pack for you e-bike.

 

[selrahc1992]

Bargain of the year if you have any money left after Xmas. I just checked the Oxydrive website for another thread and saw massive price reductions. £479 for a Bafang CST kit with 13ah Samsung battery. That's the same stuff that's on the Oxygen MTB that costs £1700! Stick it on a Carera Kraken or something like that and you have one hell of an electric bike for about £700.

dear all, ive been thinking - is teh 15A the integrated controller put out (around 540W) continuous or peak? if continuous i wonder what the peak would be? the battery is rated at 2C which means it can do something like 26A (or around 900W, apologies if this gets too obvious, im working it out for myself) - but again is that continuous or peak (and what woudl peak be if it's continuous)?
blame this on me reading too many past posts - but torque being about amps - what woudl happen if i soldered up a third of the shunt - would i invalidate teh warranty? would i damage teh battery or controller? would the motor saturate and simply turn the extra current into heat? Woudl teh system climb better with teh extra current (and how much would it be)? many thanks for your thoughts

 

[1boris]

I am curious how the torque on this kit is compared to a 500w cst 36v 30 amp

 

[selrahc1992]

I am curious how the torque on this kit is compared to a 500w cst 36v 30 amp

ive tried a 500w BPM2 with 35A (S12SH controller) and 12S (44V) - it literally flew up any hill i could find without pedalling, i dont imagine it could be anywhere near this (or 1.5kw)

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I am curious how the torque on this kit is compared to a 500w cst 36v 30 amp

Nowhere near as much. It has about the same torque as an Ezee bike or one of the Kudos bikes with a BPM motor. Maybe slightly more. You'd have to ride them back to back to be sure.

Yes, it should be possible to get more current by soldering the shunt or adjusting the shunt resistance some other way.From tests I did, this version of the motor can go up to about 22A. It doesn't get any hotter after that. It just doesn't give any more torque for some reason - maybe saturation.

I was talking to Andew today. He told me about a new left-hand pedal sensor that will be shipped with the kits, so you get two, which gives a choice of a conventional RH one, where you have to remove the BB to fit it, or the new LH one, where you only have to remove the left crank. It only works with a cartridge type BB that has the conventional internal spline for the BB tool.Here's a photo. The whole thing is only about 35mm diameter. The spline clips into the BB and the inner diameter is tight on the BB spindle, so goes round with it. No magnet disc is needed. It's very neat and discrete. I'll have to tap him up at the Excel show to see if he can get me some

 

[1boris]

Thanks for the info D8veh.I just opened two cst motors.one 250w and one 500w.For me it clearly looked like the 250w had less copper mass than the 500w cst.And the stator on both motors was 20mm not 17mm as one cst motor pictured at endless sphere.I could post some good pictures if you are intrested.I have tried both motors with the same 48v 23a controller (s09p) and there is big diffrence in torque.Since they are marked in steel i wanted to put the 500w in the 250w hub.But water had done some damage on the bearings and the magnet on the 500w so I didnt swap them

 

[awol]

Thanks for the info D8veh.I just opened two cst motors.one 250w and one 500w.For me it clearly looked like the 250w had less copper mass than the 500w cst.And the stator on both motors was 20mm not 17mm as one cst motor pictured at endless sphere.I could post some good pictures if you are intrested.I have tried both motors with the same 48v 23a controller (s09p) and there is big diffrence in torque.Since they are marked in steel i wanted to put the 500w in the 250w hub.But water had done some damage on the bearings and the magnet on the 500w so I didnt swap them

Just out of interest, would the 500w motor have fitted fine in the 250w marked body if it was not for the water damage?
I'd be interested in seeing some pics.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That's interesting. I had the 350w and 500w versions, which I ran at 36v. I think the 350w one is the same as the 250w one apart from the marking. The 500w one makes a lot of torque at 30A, but the 350w one's torque peaked at about 22A and was much less.I didn't open them to see the difference. There was one interesting thing that happened with the 350w one that had a no-load speed of about 32 km/h. The three-speed switch on the KU93 controller can boost speed of most hall sensor motors by about 10%, but it boosted the speed of this motor by 70%!. I used the KU123 with the 500w CST, but the three-speed switch only gave 10% speed boost.

 

[1boris]

Yes,the 500w fits the 250w hub,I did swap them and tested the motor no load.But I want be using the 500w motor because of corrosion on stator and magnet and bad bearings.The magnet had lost some of its strenght to compared to the 250w magnet.
D8veh:the 250w cst comes from elifebike.com and is listed as a 205 rpm.But that is not correct.actually he has listed all his cst motor 205 rpm.I didnt see that before after I had ordered.If I remeber correct it had a top speed at 36v around 32 kmh on the flat no pedlling,and I could pedal hard to around 43 kmh with 48v 23 ah.So I think it is around 250 rpm.
I will post pics later this weekend.

 

[1boris]

I am waiting for a new bike from China,kind of ugly actually.But I like it also.I asked for a 48v 500w bafang motor marked 250w.But I got an 36volt motor with an 12 ah controller They told med the motor is 500w.Guess I have to wait and see how it behave when I use the 48volt 23 a controller and 48 v battery on it.I hope at least it is 201 rpm version so I can get some torque when I solder the shunt a bit on the 12 ah controller

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That motor is a code 10, which is about 315 rpm at 36v or 24 mph on the road. It'll be fast with 48v, but not very efficient for climbing.If it's truly a 500w one, then a 36v battery and a 30 amp controller would be better for climbing,

 

[1boris]

Yes,Thats what I thought.The seller says it is around 210 rpm and 25 kmh max.If it is a 500w marked 250w.Then mybe the motor code is wrong to.I will find out in the end of the month

 

[awol]

when I use the 48volt 23 a controller and 48 v battery on it.

Is that the battery built in? If so how will you change it to 48v?

 

[Nealh]

Oxydrive should arrive tomorrow which is handy as I have free day. If it is a dryish day may go out for a spin on the Norco/BBS once it arrives..

 

[selrahc1992]

Nowhere near as much. It has about the same torque as an Ezee bike or one of the Kudos bikes with a BPM motor. Maybe slightly more. You'd have to ride them back to back to be sure.

Yes, it should be possible to get more current by soldering the shunt or adjusting the shunt resistance some other way.From tests I did, this version of the motor can go up to about 22A. It doesn't get any hotter after that. It just doesn't give any more torque for some reason - maybe saturation.

I was talking to Andew today. He told me about a new left-hand pedal sensor that will be shipped with the kits, so you get two, which gives a choice of a conventional RH one, where you have to remove the BB to fit it, or the new LH one, where you only have to remove the left crank. It only works with a cartridge type BB that has the conventional internal spline for the BB tool.Here's a photo. The whole thing is only about 35mm diameter. The spline clips into the BB and the inner diameter is tight on the BB spindle, so goes round with it. No magnet disc is needed. It's very neat and discrete. I'll have to tap him up at the Excel show to see if he can get me some

many thanks, that's very helpful information