Oxydrive kits

[Deleted member 4366]

Hi guys, I'm also looking at purchasing the OXYDrive CST HT 36V 13Ah kit.

I have a Scott Aspect 20 2008 model hard tail. http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/BikeSpecs.aspx?year=2008&brand=Scott&model=Aspect 20

Can you see any problems with fitting this kit to this particular bike before I press the buy button?

Also are there any videos out there of reviews of this product or actually what it looks like on the bike ? Can't find much out there on Google, is it a new product and is it good value for near £500?

Thanks!

Installation should be straight-forward. If you want to keep your hydraulic brakes, you'll need to make a switch for one of them because the kit's levers are for cable brakes.

I've never seen a review of the kit, but it's the electrical stuff off the Oxygen MTB, si, if it's performance data you want, search for Oxygen MTB. Bear in mind that the MTB has 27.5" wheels, so will go a bit faster, but with less torque than what you'd get.

 

[selrahc1992]

I'd stick with 26" wheels - more choice and better torque from the motor.

BTW, the brake connectors are two wire, so a reed switch would be easy to wire. You could also nick the sensor and magnet off a cheap cycle computer. Strap the sensor to the frame where there's bare cable and fix the magnet to the cable for an effective two wire brake switch.

many thanks, sensor to frame and magnet to cable great idea (and major, major relief as opposed to replacing gear/brake levers), incidentally googled tyre diameter, 23-700c is 668mm and 26 MTB 660mm; decided 27mph sounds might attractive and just hope torque will be OK..

 

[Ian_Fearn]

I've just called Oxydrive and discussed my needs with the chap there. Helpful guy.

I decided to order the CST high torque motor with the 13ah battery. Total cost including postage was a shade under £500.

Apparently there aren't many CST HT kits left now so hurry if you want one! Despatch expected to be either late this week or early next. Can't wait to get it fitted and get out of the car.

Will I need to get some of these torque arms from Cycleeze?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Will I need to get some of these torque arms from Cycleeze?

You should fit one on the disc side just to be sure. Maxe sure that you get the right size slot 12mm x 10mm. All drop-outs are different, but as a general rule, use the part that goes on the axle, and make a tie bar to the disc caliper mount bolt (if you have a disc brake). Alternatively, if you have flat drop-outs, drill a hole so that you can fix that axle piece directly without all that linkage stuff that comes in the torque-arm kit.

 

[Cyclezee]

Our torque arms for 12 and 14mm axles are available from eBay here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261722451160?var=&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

 

[selrahc1992]

You should fit one on the disc side just to be sure. Maxe sure that you get the right size slot 12mm x 10mm. All drop-outs are different, but as a general rule, use the part that goes on the axle, and make a tie bar to the disc caliper mount bolt (if you have a disc brake). Alternatively, if you have flat drop-outs, drill a hole so that you can fix that axle piece directly without all that linkage stuff that comes in the torque-arm kit.

thanks for advice, will order one straight after this - my donor bike has quick release skewer, does that matter at all? cant wait to get it and see what it will do!

 

[RobF]

Seems to me a motor is less likely to pop out of a vertical rear dropout, which tend to be deeper than front ones.

It's purely a discussion point, if I was fitting a rear kit I would have some of John's lovely plates.

 

[Ian_Fearn]

I've not got disc mounts on my frame so I guess some improvisation will be required? I think the dropouts are flat but i'll check later.

I'm not sure what size the axles are yet, will wait till they arrive hopefully early next week.

I shall report back with my findings. Its been quite a complex decision to go with this kit. I had initially thought I could do the conversion for £300 but this clearly wasn't practical for a first timer if I wanted kit of a good standard. I wanted to stay within the legal 250w requirements and this kit appears to have the EN..... requirements whilst hopefully providing the torque requirements for the Derbyshire hills I encounter daily.

I was seriously tempted by the Xiongda 2 speed motor and Cyclotricity kit but this deal was too good to miss.

 

[selrahc1992]

Seems to me a motor is less likely to pop out of a vertical rear dropout, which tend to be deeper than front ones.

It's purely a discussion point, if I was fitting a rear kit I would have some of John's lovely plates.

many thanks, its reassuring, will get some

 

[RobF]

thanks for advice, will order one straight after this - my donor bike has quick release skewer, does that matter at all? cant wait to get it and see what it will do!

The motor will arrive built into a wheel with solid axles.

Your quick release can't be fitted, but stays with your old wheel.

It is one of the disadvantages of a hub motor, if you need to remove a wheel while out and about you will have to add a spanner to the tools you carry.

 

[RobF]

many thanks, its reassuring, will get some

As a general piece of advice, I would check the tightness of the nuts regularly.

The nuts on my Alfine gear hub tend to come undone, it isn't a motor, but it's a similar application.

 

[Nealh]

Ian it has already been mentioned you will need the 10 x12 arms for the cst, also you probably will have to do a little filing of the drop outs to accept the new axle as your existing one may only be 9mm and not deep enough.

 

[Ian_Fearn]

Thanks for the tip off.

 

[Cyclezee]

When it comes to filling dropouts, gently does it with hand tools, sometimes it is only the thickness of the paint that needs to be removed

 

[Nealh]

Also if you have to go deeper do not square off the corners, use a round/ rat tail file or be gentle with a dremmel,

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I always use a Dremmel with a little burr tool to adjust the drop-outs. It's very quick and easy to make them a bit deeper. Obviously you have to be careful with it because it can remove metal very quickly.

Torque arm on a flat frame. Just drill a hole:



Self-made tie-bar to disc mount:


Cut down and re-drilled BMSB one. You need a 5% cobalt drill to drill them:

 

[Cyclezee]

Example of Cyclezee torque arms on front hub motors.
They can also be used on on rear hub motors.

 

[selrahc1992]

I always use a Dremmel with a little burr tool to adjust the drop-outs. It's very quick and easy to make them a bit deeper. Obviously you have to be careful with it because it can remove metal very quickly.

Torque arm on a flat frame. Just drill a hole:



Self-made tie-bar to disc mount:


Cut down and re-drilled BMSB one. You need a 5% cobalt drill to drill them:

the first pic, as a complete aside, is a really fetching retro shade of green - I imagine from the quality it was the original frame colour?

 

[D8ve]

the first pic, as a complete aside, is a really fetching retro shade of green - I imagine from the quality it was the original frame colour?

British racing green?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

the first pic, as a complete aside, is a really fetching retro shade of green - I imagine from the quality it was the original frame colour?

It's Allen-uk's bike, which I converted for him. Note the horizontal drop-outs. Never use such a bike for a conversion: It's almost impossible to get the wheel in. You have to remove the mudguard first, which is a pain, but then gravity works against you. The only way I could get the motor in was to stand the bike on its head, so I was working downwards. Also, the drop-outs make the wire come out at the wrong angle so it's not so easy to get a nice drip loop. The wire needs to exit downwards. The shop recommended this bike as being perfect for his conversion. I think that they want their heads tested!