Oxydrive kits

[Planemo]

Ok I have a minor issue with my OD kit which has been happening for some time now. I have not posted anything about it previously as I have been trying to get some good feedback to assist with diagnosis but I have not managed to get very far with this.

Every now and then, and only ever when on 4 bars or more of load, I get a total loss of power. However it is only for a fraction of a second and always returns to power. I have never seen any error codes on the display, even temporarily. It feels just like some sort of over-current safety feature but the fact that the power always returns immediately without any change in circumstances does not suggest this. I am confident it is not a wiring plug issue as they have all been apart at various times over the months, all the connections are clean and shiny and all are fully seated. It doesnt happen every time I am 4+ bars load either which I know will make it a pain to diagnose, all I can say is that it has never happened on 1 to 3 bars of load. This rules out anything to do with the PAS disc or sensor I think.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Assuming that the kit you have is the one in your avatar, take the battery off and look at the two connector ferrules. Do they look like they should?

 

[Planemo]

Yes, perfect. I actually cleaned up the socket on the controller the other day with switch cleaner as its design does tend to store dust and dirt if using the bike without a battery (as I do sometimes). Its spotless and all the male and female pins on the controller and battery are in excellent order. I have used the bike once since this cleaning and it still cut out the same as it has always done. Its really odd as its for such a short time. Its for this reason that its not a major issue, but it concerns me that it could lead to a bigger problem and at the very least its an irritation. Mileage on the battery is still amazing and its charging fine so I dont think thats the problem either. Oh and terrain doesnt make a difference, virtually all the times it has happened I have been on tarmac - Its not like I am triggering it by hitting a bump/pothole. It smacks of a dodgy connection I know, but it just doesnt happen enough under the same repeatable conditions for this to be the case IMO. I feel it can only be the motor or the controller but then there could be something going on with the LCD as well?..very odd! Part of me is a bit worried that as it only does it under 4+ bars of load, thats quite a bit of current to be switching on/off immediately and cant be good for the controller...?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The LCD is powered directly by the battery independent of the controller. if there's any interruption to the supply at the battery connector, the LCD will go off. and it would have to be manually switched back on again., so you can rule out battery problems. My next thought was the PAS, but that would happen on any level setting. Now that I think about it, it's probably somewhere between the controller and motor.

One other thing possibly is the brakes if you have the cut-off levers. Do you inadvertently touch the lever when you're pedalling hard? Or, are the switches set too sensitive so the weight of the lever sets it off when going uphill?

 

[Planemo]

D8veh, thanks for your help with this, very kind.
I would agree with you, I think we can rule out the battery and PAS. I didnt think about the LCD panel having to be manually turned back on if it suffered a power interruption and I can confirm that I have never had to do this. In fact the panel has never shown anything unusual. Good shout on the brake cut-off, but I definately dont have my fingers anywhere near the levers when it happens, and I am not someone who rides with their hands resting on the levers either. However, I will check the sensor as I have mine attached under the lever with double sided tape. I am pretty sure that its firmly affixed (same foam tape that holds numberplates on) but worth a go. In fact, I may unplug it and do a few rides to rule it out, assuming the kit will work without it connected. I checked the motor plug again last night, its in there perfectly (and inserted up to the line) along with the battery grease that I stuffed it with last time. Again, all the pins are in excellent order as well.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

We've covered all the easy things. It sounds to me like brake sensors, but there could be a bad solder joint or faulty component anywhere in the controller.

 

[Nealh]

Following the 02 error of # 693 & 699 I went for a 30 mile ride today in similar conditions of wet roads and light drizzle and no further issues. The sealant I used is very pliable/mouldable and waterproof so I am hoping that the extra sealant around the pas sensor cable entry has done the job.

During the last couple of rides I was thinking that my 11 & 13ah batteries were losing capacity as I noticed range was less even for the colder winter conditions and also the controller was sounding very growly in higher gears when asking for power. So looked in to the settings and realised I must have
at some stage turned the power setting up to level 2, now turned back to level 1 the kit sounds better and range should be back to that which I was experiencing previously.

 

[daniele]

Following the "07 error" of my previous mail # 694 it was a burnt MOSFET in the controller.
Thanks to Andrew I now received the repaired unit, installed and now everything works perfectly

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Good to hear. We'll have to give the repairer a pat on the back.

I have another one at the moment that didn't work. The LCD wire from the controller/battery carrier had been pulled a bit too hard. It goes through a grommet directly to a connector on the PCB, so pulling it, pulled out the connector. It could have happened at any time by careless handling.

For anybody else with one of these, don't pull the cables too tight. That's the downtube battery type.

 

[Chrisk]

Ignore the below.... I've read back through the thread and discovered I need the 12mm.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Good evening,

I've bought the oxydrive
http://www.oxydrive.co.uk/electric-bike-kit/oxydrive-cst-ht-13ah.html

I'm not back at home though for a few days so haven't had the chance to fit it.

I suddenly thought I haven't bought a torque arm, but would like to fit one at the same time as when I get the opportunity to install the kit.

Can anyone who has one please tell me whether I need the 12 or 14mm torque arm?

Thanks in advance, it'll save me having to delay the install.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EDIT:

Read back through this thread and discovered I need the 12mm, so all good!

 

[Chrisk]

Finally put mine together this weekend.

Took longer than expected due to a few minor niggles such as cable ties being too short, cassette tool not fitting over the new hub, needing a 4.5mm washer as my bike is only 7 speed.

Once I had overcome these delays I was finally able to put the bike together.

Just back from my first test ride, All went well, the pas kicked in and I was motoring up hill with little to no effort.

Really enjoy the boost you get when you start peddling,

Initial impressions are very good, given new life to my old bike.

Looking forward to a proper ride when i get the opportunity

 

[brit151]

Hi guys,

Hoping for some advice with my first conversion. I purchased the oxydrive CST 27.5 kit from Andrew a few weeks back when it was on offer and decided on the boardman mtb competition as the donar bike which has £100 knocked off it at the moment. When I looked at it in the shop I thought it would fit the PAS but now I have it at home I'm struggling to see how to fix it....any ideas?

 

[Nealh]

With the bb's with ext bearings you have to drill out the mag ring centre so that it sits over the bearing casing.
I have 3 bikes with it set up like that and if the granny ring fixing nuts are steel its even better as they hold the ring in place with out having to epoxy it on. It can be done with patience and a bit of thought.
On the early one's like this I removed the granny ring but now I leave it in situ and alter the sensor bracket or make up a new one out of ali.

 

[brit151]

Cheers Nealh, Good to hear there is a possible solution which I think I should be able to manage. I just read on another thread now I know I have external bearings you can remove spacers to fit the PAS. does it look like there is a spacer that I could remove on my bb?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

First thing is you need to swap the sensor onto the other side of its bracket so that the bracket reaches forward over the bearing holder. You might have to drill some holes for that if it's not symmetrical.

Then, before installing the pedal sensor, you need to check which way it works. Do all the rest of the installation first, then connect the sensor and twizzle the magnet disc around on it. There's 4 combinations : 2 directions of rotation and two sides of the magnet disc. I think only one combination works, so that fixes which side you can mount it. Make a note of which way the two parts have to be assembled.

You have to take the cranks off, then the bottom bracket bearings to remove the plastic spacers behind them. That gives just enough room to get the magnet disc in.

Finally, use a Dremmel to open up the centre of the magnet disc to 25mm. You might have to try and thin down the disc a bit in the middle to get the left crank on. It's a bit tight and often doesn't go as far as you'd like, but is sufficient. The magnet disc must only touch the moving part of the BB, so be careful not to let it touch the bearing holder if you thin it.

here's a picture of a different PAS I fitted to a hollowtech crank. Note that the sensor pokes through the bracket, but your one doesn't poke through so will be on the ouboard side of the bracket.



Here's another one I did with a non-symmetric bracket, so you can see the two extra holes I drilled to change the sensor to the other side:



The bracket still had to be bent a bit to get the right clearance;

 

[Planemo]

If you want it on the drive side (neater and more stealth) then look back through this thread and you will see pics of how I did mine. Pretty much as Nealh said really. I have had to do mine twice - the first was easier as I had a hardtail frame. The second time I couldnt use the stock silver PAS mounting bracket at all as it wouldnt fit with the suspension linkages. All the info and pics you need are in this thread. Its a bit of a read but well worth it.

 

[Nealh]

2400 miles passed on the odo now and the bike/kit is running nicely. 65 miles today and from the off set I set the current to level 3 and opted for pas 5, none of the growling from the controller as I had with level 2. Range from my 11ah wasn't bad and managed 31 miles about 8 less then when using level 1. I rode to Jack and Jill in 59m43s averaging 17.5 mph for the 17.5 mile journey, the ride up to J & J claimed a hill climbing KOM .

 

[footpump]

hi all have been considering the oxydrive cst 13ah kit or oxygen ebike which I believe has the same hub unit (ht model)
but this kit is now £700 or do oxydrive have special offers ? as £500 would have been a good deal

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I don't think you'll be seeing anymore £500 deals, so don't hold out for one.

 

[STEVEMANFA]

You are to late I think.