New Light runs direct from battery.

[wurly]

Sorry for bringing an old thread up.

Anyone know how to remove the white plastic end cap on these things? I've tried to unscrew it, pulling it with mole grips and levering it with a screwdriver. It's gonna be a hacksaw next.

I connected up my bike this afternoon with my soft start switch enabled and it's screwed my light. I want to get apart to see if there is anything i can replace...............or

maybe someone has a 'blue' one they want to sell????

 

[103Alex1]

Sorry for bringing an old thread up.

Anyone know how to remove the white plastic end cap on these things? I've tried to unscrew it, pulling it with mole grips and levering it with a screwdriver. It's gonna be a hacksaw next.

I connected up my bike this afternoon with my soft start switch enabled and it's screwed my light. I want to get apart to see if there is anything i can replace...............or

maybe someone has a 'blue' one they want to sell????

I think they're moulded in and can't be removed without cutting them off, wurly. I had a go myself but concluded they were probably epoxied in or something. Any idea what screwed it ? I haven't connected mine up yet but have just finished making a dual output Deans socket off master FET switch from my battery, so can now test my lights off it easy enough. Intend to try it out soon and don't want to blow it up ....

If it isn't what I'm after I'll have it going spare.

 

[wurly]

Pretty sure i found a picture of one dismantled showing the driver chip. I thought it was here but it may have been on ES. I've been looking but can't find it. The plastic bit comes off, but how?
Brute force required once again.
It's been fine for the last couple of months. I got to rely on it for everyday biking night or day. I brought the bike inside to rearrange the wiring and connect the rear light permenantly, connected battery with the soft start circuit accidently armed and pop! no longer works.

 

[wurly]

Well i got the cap off. It took a fair amount of force but it was all futile.
The driver pcb is covered in a solid compound so there is no way of finding out what blew. I wish they wouldn't do this. Some people (like me) want to be able to service and fix things. I expect the pcb was fixable but i'll never know. Out of interest i dug away the compound and discovered common surface mount componants, i'm sure i could have found out what was wrong, but now i've swept away the debris and thrown the pcb in the bin.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc224/gearhead188/upload/20130325_175111.jpg


So , if anyone has one they don't want?????
Or maybe i can run it without the the driver circuit using resistors instead....mmmmmmmmm!

 

[103Alex1]

Well i got the cap off. It took a fair amount of force but it was all futile.
The driver pcb is covered in a solid compound so there is no way of finding out what blew. I wish they wouldn't do this. Some people (like me) want to be able to service and fix things. I expect the pcb was fixable but i'll never know. Out of interest i dug away the compound and discovered common surface mount componants, i'm sure i could have found out what was wrong, but now i've swept away the debris and thrown the pcb in the bin.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc224/gearhead188/upload/20130325_175111.jpg


So , if anyone has one they don't want?????
Or maybe i can run it without the the driver circuit using resistors instead....mmmmmmmmm!

Bummer. I have some single-mode 950mA driver circuits that I was going to use to build CREE T6 lights with no clicky switch if you want one. Reckon you might need to take down the input voltage as they clearly have current limiters on them to regulate the voltage.

I also have a couple of spare 36V to 9V 3A converters along with a 36V to 5V 3A one, all with chunky heatsinks, that took weeks to arrive but surplus to needs if any of these would be a help ?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That answers your question Alex about why the outside isn't sealed against water. it seems that they sealed the inside instead.

 

[103Alex1]

All is revealed .. just playing with it now actually - will probs post up a photo of the wiring array I've put together to double check it's OK before connecting up .. wee bit more to go and it's not the final assembly just a 1st test.

There are still 2 solder pads under the front LED retaining plate with +/- wires attached to it so some kind of gasket between the plate and LEDs would likely not go amiss.

 

[103Alex1]

Just a quicky ... there are red & white wires coming out of the light - am I right in thinking the red is +ve and the white 0V ?

 

[wurly]

Yes you are correct.

 

[103Alex1]

OK - think I'm ready to switch on if everything's safe .... ... here's the rig-up :

Box is my FET switch connected to a double-Deans adaptor. I've plugged the other side with a blanking plug. The 2 thick blacks are off a single Deans pin and go to 2 x 4-way blocks on the BUSbar (-ve terminal block). The +ve has the inline fuse holder with a 10A in it (superfluous but off something else) and goes to the fuse box with a 4A fuses in it.

Light has red (+ve) connected to other side of fuse box and white (0V) connected to one of the 4-way BUSbar blocks.

Does this look OK / right / safe ?

EDIT :- no worries, it works fine. Taken outside for a test..... nice long distance hotspot and good light pattern for a bike light. Nowhere near as blinding as a CREE T6 on high mode. Paired with a single T6 with diffuser this is a great combo and ideal for urban / semi-urban areas.

Wurly, sorry to say .... I think I'm gonna keep it.

 

[Alan Quay]

Just make sure that the cable from the fuse box to the light is capable of higher current than the fuse. Looks a bit small to me for a 4A fuse, but that might just be the picture. As a guide, 7/02 is normally rated about 1.4A, with 16/02 at around 3A.

 

[103Alex1]

What means 7/02 and 16/02, Mike ? The cable that comes with the light has the usual dual core cable with puny thin wires in it ... a very hard crimp on a red connector were needed to get it to hold for testing.

When it's rigged up for the bike there will be a proper wire from the fuse box to handlebar switch input connector capable of handling about 10A, then the light will most likely be connected to one of the switch supply wires via a bullet connector.

This is the switch it'll hook up to :

http://www.trailtech.net/040-HBS-02.html

 

[Alan Quay]

7/02 = 7 strands of 0.2 mm diameter. 16/02 = 16 strands, 0.2 mm.
Important that all of the cable in the circuit is capable of more current than the fuse. If not, in a failure the cable will act as a fuse. Not pretty.

 

[Alan Quay]

In current order, the ratings should be:
Device (eg 0.5A)
Fuse (eg 1A)
Cable (eg 1.4A)

 

[103Alex1]

In current order, the ratings should be:
Device (eg 0.5A)
Fuse (eg 1A)
Cable (eg 1.4A)

OK that makes sense, thanks. I think with the lights I'm stuck with the cable that comes supplied so will just need to review the fuse rating for the box once I've finally decided what lights are getting rigged up to the switch.

May or may not be able to fuse each light after the handlebar switch, will see what I've got space for. Otherwise It'll be the switch itself that's fused and so will make allowance for the total current drawn from its 3 output wires. The horn is a separate supply through the same switch housing.

My guess is that 2A fuses are likely more appropriate for individual lights - certainly the smaller ones.

 

[Scimitar]

maybe someone has a 'blue' one they want to sell????

Sorry, I'm keeping this one with a view to re-lamping it. I like the casing it came in and they've agreed to send a proper white one.

 

[103Alex1]

OK I just did a current test on this light running off an almost-full 36V 20Ah battery reading 41.8V.

The current drawn was reading 0.23A -almost negligible.

 

[103Alex1]

It's been mentioned above, but this light really does have a very intense hotspot - and is a narrow throw light but the very near distance illumination is pretty good too.

Here's a pic of the light over about 15m :

 

[bilabonic]

Hi

I have fitted these for customers 12 / 80 volts


3W High Power LED Spot Light for Motor E-Bike(12-80V ) | eBay

Frank

Is that a Cree led mate ?

Did you find a suitable inline/handlebar waterproof switch ??

Cheers

 

[Gdread]

I used one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ON-OFF-KILL-SWITCH-QUAD-PIT-DIRT-MINI-MOTO-MINIMOTO-ATV-MONKEY-BIKE-/281069098104?



Used it to switch off the main headlight and also a rear light.