New GSM kit fitted but will not kick in on hills ?

[Nixtoo]

I also use gsm and have not have these issues. My negative experience amounts to

1. First kit just errorred , replaced fast and without quible . Woosh issue I believe

2. 2nd kit performs fine except once when battery showed empty. Turn off and on again, full again. and repeat. This was traced to a dodgy connection (mine, not part of Kit)

3. It quite clearly pulls serious amps when unrestricted. Nothing like 18a IMHO . And it would appear to have made Nealh and my older dolphin batteries rather poorly. Not woosh fault. Designed to be legal.

Worth stating my BPM hub commuter machine covers at least 60 miles a week but the gsm hardtall use is intermittent and prob only done 300 total

It's on my fun bike

Can I ask what the connection issue was that led to the empty battery indicator? This was he first fault that I cured with mine. So far I've only plugged it all together.

 

[Nealh]

Have unplugged any brake cutouts ? Always a good port of call for odd cutouts?

That was my first thought on Sunday when I was out riding, disconnected both but made no difference. I am now on 10s lipo with inline 30a fuse, derestricted at 32kmh it remained intact. I'm waiting for another GT watt meter as after I did the mods which worked great tried to check shunt amps and smoke the GT after applying the breaks to harshly.

 

[KirstinS]

Can I ask what the connection issue was that led to the empty battery indicator? This was he first fault that I cured with mine. So far I've only plugged it all together.

Yes, it was a very weak soldering joint on the xt60 connector that connected battery to the kit power leads. I had done it in a hurry with a knackered soldering tip

 

[Nixtoo]

Yes, it was a very weak soldering joint on the xt60 connector that connected battery to the kit power leads. I had done it in a hurry with a knackered soldering tip

Hmm my battery is only connected by the original push connectors, then taped. I was testing before I soldered. But maybe the connection is causing the issues? I assumed the battery connection was OK as the display hadn't cut out and it's powered by the battery.
Should add I've been real impressed by the CS at woosh, both before and after purchase. I have no concerns about keeping the unit and testing it further. Can highly recommend them. With this sort of purchase there is always likely to be some issues, especially with a self install.

 

[KirstinS]

Hmm my battery is only connected by the original push connectors, then taped. I was testing before I soldered. But maybe the connection is causing the issues? I assumed the battery connection was OK as the display hadn't cut out and it's powered by the battery.
Should add I've been real impressed by the CS at woosh, both before and after purchase. I have no concerns about keeping the unit and testing it further. Can highly recommend them. With this sort of purchase there is always likely to be some issues, especially with a self install.

Could still be issue, my weak connection was enough to power LCD but as soon as the motor made a proper demand for amps then the connection couldn't support

 

[KirstinS]

That was my first thought on Sunday when I was out riding, disconnected both but made no difference. I am now on 10s lipo with inline 30a fuse, derestricted at 32kmh it remained intact. I'm waiting for another GT watt meter as after I did the mods which worked great tried to check shunt amps and smoke the GT after applying the breaks to harshly.

Well, I'm dying to hear the result of your watt meter tests!

 

[anotherkiwi]

Looking for something else I came across this thread again

3. It quite clearly pulls serious amps when unrestricted. Nothing like 18a IMHO . And it would appear to have made Nealh and my older dolphin batteries rather poorly. Not woosh fault. Designed to be legal.

What do you mean by unrestricted? I can't get mine to use more than 15 Amps - controller maximum - and that is enough for 40-45 km/h in 5th or 6th gear on the flat. I am burning through the Watt hours rather quickly but the battery isn't sagging any more than usual.

That said I am very happy with the 500 or so Watts provided by the 15 Amp controller, it is enough for me, so much so that I have ordered another 15 Amp controller. Sine wave, torque simulation and external speed sensor.

And with only 15 Amps when I plug in the LiPo a whole new world unfolds...

 

[KirstinS]

Looking for something else I came across this thread again



What do you mean by unrestricted? I can't get mine to use more than 15 Amps - controller maximum - and that is enough for 40-45 km/h in 5th or 6th gear on the flat. I am burning through the Watt hours rather quickly but the battery isn't sagging any more than usual.

That said I am very happy with the 500 or so Watts provided by the 15 Amp controller, it is enough for me, so much so that I have ordered another 15 Amp controller. Sine wave, torque simulation and external speed sensor.

And with only 15 Amps when I plug in the LiPo a whole new world unfolds...

Well, I had pretty just about the first one woosh sold - certainly from earliest pre-ordered batch . I believe nealh also

I understand from trex and others that the internal controller has undergone a few iterations since then and the amp draw issue has gone away.

But my older battery has a 20amp bms constant .....and with the restrictions lifted via. the LCD it sagged and got poorly

I just keep it legal, not an issue as I bought it for getting me up South Downs hills. Not a speed machine

 

[anotherkiwi]

OK I understand better now.

 

[anotherkiwi]

I think the issue is that this motor draws max amps for longish periods of time and Li-Ion batteries don't like that. Or maybe it ramps up faster than the cells can handle. In any case my Li-Ion battery doesn't like it on the hills.

Despite ciclotek saying my 10.4 Ah battery is capable of 2C constant I don't believe them. The BMS is set to 20 Ah constant and 30 Ah peak maybe, but that doesn't mean the cells (Samsung 26F) are up to more than 1C constant.

Just got back from a ride to Irun and at 20 km the battery is sagging 4 Volts! I wasn't using more than 12-13 Amps peak all the way there and all the way back. Fully charged battery = 41.35 V nowadays. Now that it is home and parked the voltage will be back up over 37.5 V but I saw it down to 33.5 V on the road...

This battery is 18 months old and has about 4000 km under its belt.

 

[Nealh]

AK exactly the same as happened to my 2 15ah 09(dolphins). Before the GSM both 41.8v -42v and 50 miles range each, used both with GSM for about 320 miles and now both 41.4v max with 30 mile max range each.