New GSM kit fitted but will not kick in on hills ?

Hi all just fitted the kit and took it out you can feel it working then cuts out as should over 15 mph but will not kick in again when you slow down

What am I doing wrong as its a pain on the hills

you have not done anything wrong.

When the GSM hits the speed limit, it cuts off the power until it detects an acceleration in the pedelec sensor. When the motor cuts out, stop peddaling for a few seconds to slow the bike then start pedaling again should engage the motor.

Some people set the maximum speed limit where they feel comfortable with. You could go up to 17mph for example.

The simplest way I found to ride at constant maximum speed, just use the thumb throttle.

The throttle re-engages the motor as soon as it drops below the maximum speed.

Hi thanks trex

The thing is I can down to 10 mph and will not kick in nor will it if I use throttle so got to stop peddling on hills then will kick in

that never happened to me, I don't know.

Just a thought, if you lift the rear wheel up and push on the thumb throttle, does the rear wheel keep going?

Yes works fine like that throttle works etc if you set off etc and peddle everything works fine

It's when you hit a hill and want the power neither throttle or assist will work until stop peddling for a while

how long do you have to stop before the electrics work again?

A few seconds and if you ease off peddling the motor cuts

Have just checked all the connectors etc

Would it make a difference if I am only using 1 brake sensed at moment as have integrated gears on other one

I am about to go out again and try it did read somewhere touch the brake and will kick in I will try that as well But surely not meant to do that

I would not have thought that the second brake sensor would make a difference. Both brake sensors are wired together, down to a single wire.

I am as much in the dark as you are. Have you tried setting a higher maximum speed to see if it makes any difference?

Just got back from a cycle and worked perfectly so what ever I did checking connection and setting speed to 30 Khm worked thanks

The GSM is far from being the finished article, the main issue for me is the pas is not perfect and works when it wants to and seems to have a gremlin or two. For a good part of my ride today I had to rely on the throttle as the pas was not very obliging and again was very intermittent in engaging, sometimes it engaged after I used the throttle a few times, I had to toggle up and own the pas speed level and on a 2 or 3 occasions back peddling engaged it again. Something else that occurred today that hasn't happened before, I had pas assist at 20mph with it on level 0 for a few hundred yards, then it would just stop and I had to go to an assist level.

Edited February 14, 201610 yr by Nealh

Mine is also the same but for some reason I have found that if I backpedal half a turn then the PAS comes back on ! this also worked when the system showed an "02E" fault

Are all the problems you are speaking of with the internal controller version?

 

Thinking outside the box here:

 

I am already going to be opting for the external controller version, what if I also opt for a external 12 magnet PAS?

 

IIRC there were people opting for an external controller on the Bafang BBS01 back in the day. OK mostly because they had blown the controller by messing around with settings Going for a tidy all in one package with fewer wires I think that the controllers place is in the battery housing, not inside the motor. Just a personal choice.

I think you can fit a left pedelec sensor but have not tried it.

 

 

 

external controller when integrated into the battery casing is definitely a better choice.

this is the GSM motor with the well proven Lishui external controller and King Meter LCD.

 

 

http://wooshbikes.co.uk/2016/gsm/gsm-motor-260.jpg

Edited February 15, 201610 yr by trex

The GSM is far from being the finished article, the main issue for me is the pas is not perfect and works when it wants to and seems to have a gremlin or two. For a good part of my ride today I had to rely on the throttle as the pas was not very obliging and again was very intermittent in engaging, sometimes it engaged after I used the throttle a few times, I had to toggle up and own the pas speed level and on a 2 or 3 occasions back peddling engaged it again. Something else that occurred today that hasn't happened before, I had pas assist at 20mph with it on level 0 for a few hundred yards, then it would just stop and I had to go to an assist level.

 

I had ramen problems with pas and throttle would not work but a ousted all the connector together again and altered speed to 30 and works brilliantly just as well as my wife's electric bike she bought

My GSM cut out today. It was all running fine when suddenly the battery flashed empty. I turned it off and on and it started to work (battery depleted by 1 bar) but kept cutting out. Each time if I turned it on and off it came back. I was towing my son so didn't appreciate it cutting out. I've also developed a weird noise from the front, not the brakes, don't think it's the mudguard, hope it's nothing serious.

AK my one is integrated controller and pas. I set the speed cut off to 32kmh/20 odd mph but have the issues at lower speed.

Doesn't sound very reassuring I am back to looking at Xofo, and Mxus as cheap options to Bafang.

The GSM is far from being the finished article, the main issue for me is the pas is not perfect and works when it wants to and seems to have a gremlin or two. For a good part of my ride today I had to rely on the throttle as the pas was not very obliging and again was very intermittent in engaging, sometimes it engaged after I used the throttle a few times, I had to toggle up and own the pas speed level and on a 2 or 3 occasions back peddling engaged it again. Something else that occurred today that hasn't happened before, I had pas assist at 20mph with it on level 0 for a few hundred yards, then it would just stop and I had to go to an assist level.

 

Hi Nealh,

 

I had exactly the same problem today and is very annoying,it motor engages when it wants too,this is the only third outing when the whole set up was replaced by woosh,1st by rear spoke broke off, not GSM fault.Second error code appereared completely stopped working for a few minutes,and this time PAS engaging intemittently when it wants too.What other problems should I watch out for.

Woosh any solutions you can offer.

I also use gsm and have not have these issues. My negative experience amounts to

 

1. First kit just errorred , replaced fast and without quible . Woosh issue I believe

 

2. 2nd kit performs fine except once when battery showed empty. Turn off and on again, full again. and repeat. This was traced to a dodgy connection (mine, not part of Kit)

 

3. It quite clearly pulls serious amps when unrestricted. Nothing like 18a IMHO . And it would appear to have made Nealh and my older dolphin batteries rather poorly. Not woosh fault. Designed to be legal.

 

Worth stating my BPM hub commuter machine covers at least 60 miles a week but the gsm hardtall use is intermittent and prob only done 300 total

 

It's on my fun bike

Hi Nealh,

 

I had exactly the same problem today and is very annoying,it motor engages when it wants too,this is the only third outing when the whole set up was replaced by woosh,1st by rear spoke broke off, not GSM fault.Second error code appereared completely stopped working for a few minutes,and this time PAS engaging intemittently when it wants too.What other problems should I watch out for.

Woosh any solutions you can offer.

 

Have unplugged any brake cutouts ? Always a good port of call for odd cutouts?

I also use gsm and have not have these issues. My negative experience amounts to

 

1. First kit just errorred , replaced fast and without quible . Woosh issue I believe

 

2. 2nd kit performs fine except once when battery showed empty. Turn off and on again, full again. and repeat. This was traced to a dodgy connection (mine, not part of Kit)

 

3. It quite clearly pulls serious amps when unrestricted. Nothing like 18a IMHO . And it would appear to have made Nealh and my older dolphin batteries rather poorly. Not woosh fault. Designed to be legal.

 

Worth stating my BPM hub commuter machine covers at least 60 miles a week but the gsm hardtall use is intermittent and prob only done 300 total

 

It's on my fun bike

 

Can I ask what the connection issue was that led to the empty battery indicator? This was he first fault that I cured with mine. So far I've only plugged it all together.

Have unplugged any brake cutouts ? Always a good port of call for odd cutouts?

 

That was my first thought on Sunday when I was out riding, disconnected both but made no difference. I am now on 10s lipo with inline 30a fuse, derestricted at 32kmh it remained intact. I'm waiting for another GT watt meter as after I did the mods which worked great tried to check shunt amps and smoke the GT after applying the breaks to harshly.

Can I ask what the connection issue was that led to the empty battery indicator? This was he first fault that I cured with mine. So far I've only plugged it all together.

 

Yes, it was a very weak soldering joint on the xt60 connector that connected battery to the kit power leads. I had done it in a hurry with a knackered soldering tip

Yes, it was a very weak soldering joint on the xt60 connector that connected battery to the kit power leads. I had done it in a hurry with a knackered soldering tip

 

Hmm my battery is only connected by the original push connectors, then taped. I was testing before I soldered. But maybe the connection is causing the issues? I assumed the battery connection was OK as the display hadn't cut out and it's powered by the battery.

Should add I've been real impressed by the CS at woosh, both before and after purchase. I have no concerns about keeping the unit and testing it further. Can highly recommend them. With this sort of purchase there is always likely to be some issues, especially with a self install.

Edited February 17, 201610 yr by Nixtoo

Hmm my battery is only connected by the original push connectors, then taped. I was testing before I soldered. But maybe the connection is causing the issues? I assumed the battery connection was OK as the display hadn't cut out and it's powered by the battery.

Should add I've been real impressed by the CS at woosh, both before and after purchase. I have no concerns about keeping the unit and testing it further. Can highly recommend them. With this sort of purchase there is always likely to be some issues, especially with a self install.

 

Could still be issue, my weak connection was enough to power LCD but as soon as the motor made a proper demand for amps then the connection couldn't support