New controller required

Hi all , i have just been out to the shed to get the bike ready for the start of commuting back and fore to work , while on the bike servicing stand i switche dit all on and turne dthe padal , everything worke dfone , went back to it a few minutes later tried again but no assist , battery is full display poweres up and works as should but no assist when pedals are turned , it is a lishui lsw06 controller , and ideas where i could buy a new one or what controller to buy which is the same size as it fits inside the frame , bike is an apache matta E7 2021, Thanks in advance

A controller can't fail like that, so don't think about buying another one. What did you do when it was in the shed? Did you check anything other than the function? Did you pull any wires or anything like that?

One block of wires came apart but once reconnected still no assist

One block of wires came apart but once reconnected still no assist

How can a block of connectors come apart? Was that before or after you tested it running?

No idea , was after the first time I turned pedal .

No idea , was after the first time I turned pedal .

What you're saying doesn't really make sense. is there more to the story that you're not telling us?

Whats at each end of the connectors that came apart? if caught and snagged the sensor may have been dislodged?

So, let's see if I have this right?

You were in the shed testing the bike and it was working.

You went away, then came back and a 'block of connectors' had come apart and the bike wasn't working.

Even though you've put the block of connectors back together the bike is still not working.

I have several questions,

What caused the block of connectors to come apart?

How do you know you have reconnected them correctly?

Has there been any magic smoke released or is there a smell of burning/roasted electronics?

Have you tried disconnecting the brake switches?

Have you tried disconnecting the throttle?

Why do you assume it's the controller that's faulty?

1 block Connector was separated , (may have caught a cable not sure ) only 1 othe connector that it would fit

No smoke and No smell of Burning

No brake switches or throttle on this bike

Assume it’s the controller as the lcd is working and battery is full , no unusual

Noises from hub

1 block Connector was separated , (may have caught a cable not sure ) only 1 othe connector that it would fit

No smoke and No smell of Burning

No brake switches or throttle on this bike

Assume it’s the controller as the lcd is working and battery is full , no unusual

Noises from hub

Controllers are extremely hard to break. The only normal ways to do it are by connecting the battery the wrong way round, holding the motor still while you make the controller give power or physically connect a wire with battery voltage on it to something that shouldn't.

 

You're not helping us at all - no pictures and no details. It makes me think that there's something you're not telling us.

What details do you want I have answered all questions , the block connector that was disconnected is circled In image , also when I use walk mode it motors fine ,

Let's dig some more.

No brake sensors or throttle - OK, so that rules them out.

Unfortunately the name and number of the bike means nothing. What is needed is a picture of the display, picture/details of the controller and a picture of the whole bike.

What is the voltage measurement of the battery fully charged?

That block connector you show, it just came apart did it, or did the wires pull out?

 

Lots of questions I know, but forensic fault finding at distance is particularly tricky. We are reliant on what you tell us you see and we have to try to rule out supposition and assumption.

with no brake sensors or throttle fitted that only leaves the pas sensor to connect with 3 wires.

 

if snagged (see above) check and perhaps post pics of your pas sensor, has the magnet ring moved?

Let's dig some more.

No brake sensors or throttle - OK, so that rules them out.

Unfortunately the name and number of the bike means nothing. What is needed is a picture of the display, picture/details of the controller and a picture of the whole bike.

What is the voltage measurement of the battery fully charged?

That block connector you show, it just came apart did it, or did the wires pull out?

 

Lots of questions I know, but forensic fault finding at distance is particularly tricky. We are reliant on what you tell us you see and we have to try to rule out supposition and assumption.

 

Pictures attached for info

Battery voltage at present is 41.3v

And the connector was disconnected no pulled out wires

A very strange occurence to happen so something obviously has happend in a very short time space.

A clear pic of the controller with all of the wire connectors laid out please.

 

Carry out a simple test on your bike stand , the bike needs no power. Simply turn the motor wheel C/W , does it turn and freewheel easily without hardly any resistance ?

If resistance is felt disconnect the motor /controller phases , does the motor wheel now freewheel easily ?

If the answer is yes then either a controller mosfet have suddenly failed or there is a phase connection fault.

 

The PAS is an itegrated V12l type so it really can't go wrong unless it has been knocked or the wiring damaged.

What type of connector does the PAS have moulded or block type where one can see the wires colours ?

Are you sure you have plugged the 4 pin jst connector in the right way around and not forced it in upside down? It’s what you refer to as the block connector in the red circle.

Are you sure you have plugged the 4 pin jst connector in the right way around and not forced it in upside down? It’s what you refer to as the block connector in the red circle.

 

In the pic the connector looks correct, however one can see one end has silicone to hold the wires tight and the the not so. Diligence would say to check that the end with no silicone , make sure none of the pins have backed out of the connector and all are pushed fully in and connecting securely with the opposite pin out.

Disconnect the connector and make sure none are bent or have snapped off ?

Carry out a simple test on your bike stand , the bike needs no power. Simply turn the motor wheel C/W , does it turn and freewheel easily without hardly any resistance ?

If resistance is felt disconnect the motor /controller phases , does the motor wheel now freewheel easily ?

If the answer is yes then either a controller mosfet have suddenly failed or there is a phase connection fault.

 

Just to make it clear, you have turn the wheel BACKWARDS for that test.

 

There's something weird going on. The connector has 4 wires, but the display shows speed and has an on/off button, which would normally require 5 wires. The wires are normally red, black, blue, yellow and green. The photo shows blue missing on one side and yellow on the other. More details are required for an explanation of that.

Double check the three phase bullet connectors , it mght be possible that one has been tugged and not giving a correct connection. Bullets are knoe to be troublesome at times , it is also worth gently crimping the female side very slightly to ensure a nice snug tight connection with the male side.

In the pic the connector looks correct

Blue to yellow?

If that had normal wiring, the controller wouldn't switch on, but he said walk assist works.

 

When walk assist works, the problem is between the pedal sensor, the controller and the controller settings. That's why I think there's more to the story, though the pedal sensor doesn't look in good shape. Is that a connector for a 4-wire pedal sensor? I've seen that before on a three wire controller, where one wire wasn't connected internally.

 

The first thing I'd do is test the pedal sensor signal on its connector, which is always the place to start when walk assist works but not pedal assist.

Double check the three phase bullet connectors , it mght be possible that one has been tugged and not giving a correct connection. Bullets are knoe to be troublesome at times , it is also worth gently crimping the female side very slightly to ensure a nice snug tight connection with the male side.

Walk assist works, so nothing wrong with motor connections nor the battery nor the controller function.

turning the wheel backwards and forwards , all free no resistance ,and rides fine as a normal bike.

all pins are snug nothing out of place on either side of the 2 black connectors and phase bullets are tight and correctly assembled

on the 4 wire connector i have used my very limited electrical skills and tested the wires individually, the readings are as follows :

Pedal sensor Red and black. 4.7v , Black and blue 3.2 v with or without pedal Black green 3.8 v static variable with pedalling but erratic to 1.9v.

the other black connector with 6 wires is as follows :

Red 4.7v ,Yellow 3.3 v ,Green 0v but 1.7 with walk assist ,Blue 3.3v ,White 3.3 v.

 

 

so glad fast jets are easier to work on

 

To check the pedal sensor, you put the black probe on the black wire and the red probe on the signal wire, then turn the pedals slowly. You should see something around or slightly less than 5v switching on and off approximately 12 times with each rotation with that type of sensor.

 

Two signal wires is extremely rare. It's 10 years since I've seen that on a pedal sensor. Test both the blue and the green wire to see what's going on. They probably both pulse.

 

How is your LCD connected because there are no connectors in your photos?

 

Ebikes are the easiest thing in the world to fix, but nearly impossible from a single picture of a connector or a label on a controller or a number on an LCD. Even worse when people tell you stuff, but not the whole story.

To check the pedal sensor, you put the black probe on the black wire and the red probe on the signal wire, then turn the pedals slowly. You should see something around or slightly less than 5v switching on and off approximately 12 times with each rotation with that type of sensor.

 

Two signal wires is extremely rare. It's 10 years since I've seen that on a pedal sensor. Test both the blue and the green wire to see what's going on. They probably both pulse.

 

How is your LCD connected because there are no connectors in your photos?

 

Ebikes are the easiest thing in the world to fix, but nearly impossible from a single picture of a connector or a label on a controller or a number on an LCD. Even worse when people tell you stuff, but not the whole story.

 

In reply to this I am not sure what your getting at with the above comment of “even worse when people tell you stuff but not the whole story “ you know as much as I do , the connector disengaged whether I caught it and pulled it apart ofr wasn’t properly connected in the first place , I have supplied images which were requested answered all Questions I can , so not really sure what your get at , yes I have tested the wires to the pedal sensor and posted the results on one of my posts and yes one of the wires does as you say voltage jumps around when pedalling the other doesn’t

To check the pedal sensor, you put the black probe on the black wire and the red probe on the signal wire, then turn the pedals slowly. You should see something around or slightly less than 5v switching on and off approximately 12 times with each rotation with that type of sensor.

 

Two signal wires is extremely rare. It's 10 years since I've seen that on a pedal sensor. Test both the blue and the green wire to see what's going on. They probably both pulse.

 

How is your LCD connected because there are no connectors in your photos?

 

Ebikes are the easiest thing in the world to fix, but nearly impossible from a single picture of a connector or a label on a controller or a number on an LCD. Even worse when people tell you stuff, but not the whole story.

 

Just to add the lcd screen is connected via a multi pin plug which has not been disconnected