New build, wheel loses drive and screeches

Hi, I'm having an issue with a new build and it's happening across two different kits.

Firstly I put a kit on my trike using an old 48v q128 motor and spare 52v 17amp battery with a new 48v Sku95 controller and new thumb throttle and led810 once built it switched on fine but when you accelerated it moved at first but then it lost drive and made a screeching sound , if you switched off and on it would again move at first but under harder acceleration would screech again.

I thought I must have damaged a phase wire when I was building the wheel (I'm disabled and can be quite clumsy) so I ordered a new motor and thought sod it, for the sake of another £30 I will replace everything. Built that kit up so everything was new except the 52v 17amp battery but still the same problem occured, so I obviously thought it must be the battery that's the issue and in fairness it has sat for 6 months unused. So I ordered a spare base plate to allow me to use my other battery a 48v 20 amp, but when I swapped it over guess what, exactly same issue again.

The 52v battery was actually bought as a 48v only just found out that's what it is but that battery has been running the exact same set up on my other trike for over 5 years without issue and I just fitted a new motor and battery on that with no issues.

Feel free to treat me like a moron here because I know very little about this stuff and I'm on a lot of medication so quite hazy at times and could well have missed something completely obvious

The first thing to check is that you push the motor connector in ALL THE WAY TO THE MARKED LINE, not just in tight.

 

Your symptoms indicate a connection issue between the controller and the motor. You just have to find it.

Those connectors can be very fiddly, whilst you are checking make sure the little pins are undamaged.

I thought I must have damaged a phase wire when I was building the wheel (I'm disabled and can be quite clumsy) so I ordered a new motor and thought sod it, for the sake of another £30 I will replace everything.

 

Did you really put in a new Q128 motor? That would seem to cost more than £30.

 

If you only changed controllers, it's probably the gears in the motor. They have a one way clutch that probably failed,

2 different motors with exactly the same symptoms?

Loss of power And screeching?

Sounds like a bad connection And Also maybe something rubbing against the motor while turning/bad bearings? .

Sorry I've taken so long to reply but it takes me ages to go through everything checking it all because of my illness. I took it all to bits, checked every connection, resoldered the xt60s, everything is spot on but I got the same result, the horrible screech and no drive. When I ordered the parts from BMS I just got exactly the same as I bought 5 years ago which has been great, so I've gone over that and noticed that the maximum current on my old Sku95 is 22amp but the two new Sku95 I have just bought have a maximum current of 11v , I'm no whizz kid when it comes to electrics but I'm assuming the fact that my batteries are 17amp and 20amp that's what's causing my problems but I would appreciate it if someone could confirm this for me and if this is the issue can some one recommend a replacement controller that's up to the task

Your batteries are not 17 and 20 amp, they are 17 and 20 amp-hour, written Ah.

 

Both are big enough for most motors and controllers, so unless they are old and knackered, they are probably not the problem.

Your batteries are not 17 and 20 amp, they are 17 and 20 amp-hour, written Ah.

 

Both are big enough for most motors and controllers, so unless they are old and knackered, they are probably not the problem.

So the 11amp controller would be fine with the 20ah and 17ah battery, that's a bitch I really thought I had found the issue then

New 11a controller is 11a rated , it has tha same max 22a +/- 1a as the old model.

Check the motor cable isn't damaged at the hub axle exit/entry point.

 

How good are the phase contacts/connections under the amalgam tape.

 

Can one be 100% sure no moisture has entered the hub.

Edited January 24, 20251 yr by Nealh

So the 11amp controller would be fine with the 20ah and 17ah battery, that's a bitch I really thought I had found the issue then

They'll think they're on holiday with such low continuous current demand!

Is it worth changing the bullet connectors on the phase wires for xt60s

Check the motor cable isn't damaged at the hub axle exit/entry point.

 

How good are the phase contacts/connections under the amalgam tape.

 

Can one be 100% sure no moisture has entered the hub.

Motor cable is fine, tested trike with two motors and the issue remains so I think its fair to say they are good, brand new hub so no moisture issues, I'm just debating on changing the bullets for xt60s and see if that gets me anywhere

If a connection issue , I'm wondering if it is a wrong phase /hall combo as their are 36 differing combo's.

On could try differing wire sequences to see if drive /pick up improves.

Three or four should work better then the rest.

 

Not all controllers and hubs sync correctly straight out of the box so wiring sequences may differ.

 

 

Motor cable is fine, tested trike with two motors and the issue remains so I think its fair to say they are good, brand new hub so no moisture issues, I'm just debating on changing the bullets for xt60s and see if that gets me anywhere

Your photo seems to show the incorrect hall wire sequence on one half of the white connector with green and blue reversed on one side.

If a connection issue , I'm wondering if it is a wrong phase /hall combo as their are 36 differing combo's.

On could try differing wire sequences to see if drive /pick up improves.

Three or four should work better then the rest.

 

Not all controllers and hubs sync correctly straight out of the box so wiring sequences may differ.

 

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="61891]61891[/ATTACH]

Thanks for your input, can I just check before I start testing that I'm understanding this correctly, the top box tells me the changes to make in the sensor connection and the boxes below are changes to the phase wire connections, so I just swap them about as it says until I find one that works for me, is there anything else I need need to be aware of, thanks in advance

Yes , carry out as the boxes say and methodically go thru them.

Typically about three will work one them tries them out and opts for the best solution under power.

 

It is possible that the current syncing isn't 100%, as mentioned it isn't 100% guaranteed that all colour to colour matchings will work for every motor to controller hook up.

With those white multi blocks one also has to make 100% sure that one of the pins hasn't backed out or has been pushed out because of a barb not holding it correctly in place.

Your photo seems to show the incorrect hall wire sequence on one half of the white connector with green and blue reversed on one side.

 

I had a look and from the views of the pics couldn't cypher them to even say if they were correct, tbh honest I can't even see the Gnd or speed wire at all.

Thanks for your input, can I just check before I start testing that I'm understanding this correctly, the top box tells me the changes to make in the sensor connection and the boxes below are changes to the phase wire connections, so I just swap them about as it says until I find one that works for me, is there anything else I need need to be aware of, thanks in advance

Did you see my post?

Did you see my post?

Yeah seen thank you, I've started going through the different combinations, it will probably take me a couple of days so I will let you know how it's going as soon as it is done, I will keep an eye on the connector pins.

 

 

Not sure if this tells us anything but if I run with the sensors disconnected and the phase wires colour matched I get exactly the same problem.

Also if I lift the front wheel and test with everything colour coded it runs , it's only when there is weight on the trike that the problem persists.

 

I might change the phase wire bullet connectors for wagos while I test as the bullets are starting to feel a little loose, unless you can see any issues with doing that

Yeah seen thank you, I've started going through the different combinations, it will probably take me a couple of days so I will let you know how it's going as soon as it is done, I will keep an eye on the connector pins.

 

 

Not sure if this tells us anything but if I run with the sensors disconnected and the phase wires colour matched I get exactly the same problem.

Also if I lift the front wheel and test with everything colour coded it runs , it's only when there is weight on the trike that the problem persists.

 

I might change the phase wire bullet connectors for wagos while I test as the bullets are starting to feel a little loose, unless you can see any issues with doing that

Wouldn't it make sense to check the green and blue on that connector first? Why is the blue connected to the green and the green to the blue?

 

There's no point in changing connectors. It's quicker, easier, cheaper and more reliable to solder the wires to each other.

 

Thinking about it again, there's no need to go through all the combinations because the KU65 should have automatic hall and phase wire sequence detection. It will switch to sensorless mode if it detects any problem with the hall wires. I reckon it's running in sensorless mode, which would give the symptoms you describe. AKM motors generally don't run well sensorless.

 

If it doesn't work when you swap the green and blue wires, you need to check the hall signals with a meter. Is your motor cable connector in ALL THE WAY TO THE LINE or is it not far enough like this one post#27?

 

(3) LCD S866 - not working - error E10? | Pedelecs - Electric Bike Community

Edited January 27, 20251 yr by saneagle

Wouldn't it make sense to check the green and blue on that connector first? Why is the blue connected to the green and the green to the blue?

 

There's no point in changing connectors. It's quicker, easier, cheaper and more reliable to solder the wires to each other.

 

Thinking about it again, there's no need to go through all the combinations because the KU65 should have automatic hall and phase wire sequence detection. It will switch to sensorless mode if it detects any problem with the hall wires. I reckon it's running in sensorless mode, which would give the symptoms you describe. AKM motors generally don't run well sensorless.

 

If it doesn't work when you swap the green and blue wires, you need to check the hall signals with a meter. Is your motor cable connector in ALL THE WAY TO THE LINE or is it not far enough like this one post#27?

 

(3) LCD S866 - not working - error E10? | Pedelecs - Electric Bike Community

I've changed the wheel and the lead since that photo so it's all in the correct order and yes the mirror cable is to the line, I'm going to take the controller off the trike later and I will lay it all out then you can see everything easily in case I'm missing anything obvious

So here it is atm plus picture of pins on wheel cable which all look good.

If a connection issue , I'm wondering if it is a wrong phase /hall combo as their are 36 differing combo's.

On could try differing wire sequences to see if drive /pick up improves.

Three or four should work better then the rest.

 

Not all controllers and hubs sync correctly straight out of the box so wiring sequences may differ.

 

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="61891]61891[/ATTACH]

Can you tell me what the black arrows represent, does it mean short between those two contacts?