Need advice 250W 8FUN BBS01 or HUB MOTOR

[Deleted member 4366]

The voltage between the red and black throttle wires should be 5v. Between the black and the white about 4v with the throttle open.

The problem is almost certainly that the high magnet doesn't come close enough to the hall sensor. Even a millimeter can make a significant difference. You could open the throttle to see what's keeping it awsy, or just get a new one.

 

[ghia61]

I just measured the voltage. I got 0.8/3.9V at the white wire when throttle is in min/max position.

 

[ghia61]

I placed the new throttle, and it show 4.2 volt at max position, but the speed is still lower then the PAS.
I believe that adding some push button that will short the white wire to the red 5V will give me the extra speed and power.
The question is if the controller will handle it for continues use.

 

[ghia61]

I think that I found the root cause.
There are 2 wires connecting one to the other (short circuit) in my controller, yellow and black, disconnect them and the speed raise to 53Km/h.

Now I have some other question, I bought a hidden wire brake sensor 3 wires.
I have 3 pair lines not connected in my controller, 2 of them with similar colors gray and black and one is blue and black. My question is how do I know which one is the brake sensor?

Note that I understand that I need additional 5V to the HWBS, just trying to recognize the brake sensor lines.

Thanks a lot for the support.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The grey and black are the break connectors.The grey wire is the signal wire. Note that the yellow is ground on the HWBS.

 

[ghia61]

Thanks Dave. That was exactly what I need.

I plug every thing, every thing work excellent, I can cruise at 35-37km/h in a flat road - no peddling. That's a huge improvement.

My only problem no is that the controller is getting really hot. I will place it first outside the controller bug and see what happen, but anyone have any other idea how to cool the controller?

Thanks again!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I didn't register the speed before. The no-load speed is very fast for a small motor. It's around 400rpm. Where did you get it from?

When you have a high-speed motor like that. it'll be drawing the maximum current from the controller nearly all the time,which is why the controller becomes hot. You need to relocate it out in the air flow. I guess your battery doesn't take you very far like that.

 

[ghia61]

Well, I bought this motor as second hand and there is no sign on the motor to identify him. I will be happy to know.

The load speed before was about 30km/h at the same flat way.
My battery is 36V/9.6A/H with Panasonic cells, and I still can't tell you the max range compare to the previous setup, but this morning I did 15Km with battery fully charge, and I get to my office at 35.6V. before the change I use to arrive to my office with ~36.2V on the battery. At the last 1.5Km the speed reduced but I still had some power.

Regarding the controller, well I will try to locate it at the air but it is going to be ugly, no? Do you have an idea?
You can see a pics of my bike and the motor at the previous page (2) thread.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I can't give a specific solution, but the aim should be to mount it immediately next to a tool-bag so that the connectors and wires are in the bag and you only see the aluminium box of the controller.

 

[pedro magrela]

Many OEM electric bikes use MXUS motors. They're strong and reliable. Many people on this forum use them, but they don't know it because the motors usually are not marked with the MXUS logo.

You can reach 35km/h with either crank or hub 250w motors. The hub-motor must have a speed in the range 250 to 270 RPM., and you need a controller that gives at least 18 amps. You can increase the speed of a hub-motor by 20% if you use 12S lipos (44v) instead of a 36v ebike battery. You can increase the current of most controllers by up to 50% by soldering the shunt.

Whatever stuff you buy, I guess you know that there's a lot of restrictions to bring stuff into Israel. If you don't know about this, you should ask some questions on www.endless-sphere.com, where there are several Israeli members.

Hi there, d8veh, I admire your knowledge and activity on this forum, tks. How about the MXUS midmotor? There is so little information and feed back about it on the internet. Comparison to the Bafang BBS01 would be terrific, or any other insights. Any experience?? And do you have any names of OEM bikes for MXUS?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I don't think that it's in production yet. They had their new hub-motors to try at the Shanghai show, but I didn't see any middle ones (to try).

This one is probably a prototype:

 

[1boris]

This looks like the mxus motor

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/BTN-new-hot-and-cheap-electric-bike-center-motor-electric-bicycle-center-motor-330USD/705369_1858996195.html

 

[Nealh]

The mxus cd above now looks like it is available from Ciclotek as the Ciclotek XFC, not cheap though.
http://www.ciclotekstore.eu/b2c/productos/1/2/16/xfc-electric-conversion-kits-central-motor-/1

 

[Kinninvie]

Every single choice says NO STOCK so they have probably got the site set up before the motors are even available.

 

[anotherkiwi]

I found Ciclotek thanks to a search here on the forum. Nealh says:

not cheap though

I beg to disagree, especially if you live in the eurozone:

1. Two year guarantee
2. free delivery (it actually costs more to be delivered from them in Spain!)
3. ten years experience
4. EN certification
5. They are within three hours driving distance, just in case...

After looking at my options I have decided to buy from them for the above good reasons. Speaking Spanish also helps a little in the choice, I prefer my bad Spanish to bad Engrish... Their batteries are not (quite) as cheap as in the UK but the motors certainly are much cheaper once you factor in conversion to the euro and delivery charges. I wish someone could tell me why there is a price difference on batteries here on the continent?

Facing urgency to get mobile again, for various reasons, I am not going to save until I can afford a mid motor. I am going to buy their front motor kit at 479€ and get back on the road within the next couple of weeks. There is a mid motor in my future but I can't wait right now. Their technical descriptions also helped convince me: 250 W nominative, 350 W constant and 540 W peak is more than enough to get me down the road I need to travel. The simulators say I can do it using half of a 9 A bottle battery charge as well.

Tony

 

[trex]

@anotherkiwi - woosh ship the BBS01 15A 250W kit to France for £345 shipping cost included.
At the current exchange rate 1.37 EUR = £1, that works out at EUR472 against EU499 + shipping for the Mxus.
The BBS01 also has EN15194 certification and an excellent track record to boot.
http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?cdkit

 

[anotherkiwi]

With a two year guarantee? With the controller set to 18 amps (to get the 350W constant)? The shipping is free so we are looking at 27€ difference. I also have up my sleeve the BeWo at 344€ shipping included

When I'm ready for a mid motor we'll talk.

Like I said I only have that much (480€) for a complete kit right now and my bike is my only means of transport which explains the rush. I have lived in parts of France with great public transport but right now I live where the scenery is great and public transport isn't...

Tony

 

[Nealh]

Back in November the MXUS cd was not a cheap option for UK buyers with the then £ / € exchange however now it is better and nearly competitive with Woosh and Eclipse. Same goes for the NCX seat post £55 in Nov now £43 delivered, just depends where in Europe you are located.