My new Fiido D2s won´t start

sandpingu

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 21, 2020
5
0
Hey everybody!
Last week week I bought a Fiido D2s and everything seemed to work smooth and perfect until this morning. While biking to work, in the last 100m the electric power stopped working and the LED controls began flashing. 8h later, when I had to go back home, the bike was doing the same thing, flashing LEDs, so I had to pedal the whole way.

I have no idea what is going on, as there is not much information online... the only thing I could find is the error codes in the Fiido webpage:
Fiido Throttle Error Code indicator Guide
1. Flash 2 to stop: brake failure.
2. Flash 3 to stop: DC point is abnormal.
3. Quickly flash 4 times to stop: the lower tube is broken down.
4. Quickly stop 5 times: the upper tube is broken down.
5. Flash 6 times to stop: Hall failure.
6. Flash 7 times: the phase line is faulty.
7. Flash 8 times to stop: under voltage protection.
8. Flash 9 times to stop: stall protection.
9. Flash 10 times to stop: Speed control is faulty.
10. Flash 11 times to stop: Overvoltage protection.


Mine is flashing 4 times, but I have no idea what the lower tube is...

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thank you very much!
 

Andy-Mat

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 26, 2018
2,214
562
78
Hey everybody!
Last week week I bought a Fiido D2s and everything seemed to work smooth and perfect until this morning. While biking to work, in the last 100m the electric power stopped working and the LED controls began flashing. 8h later, when I had to go back home, the bike was doing the same thing, flashing LEDs, so I had to pedal the whole way.

I have no idea what is going on, as there is not much information online... the only thing I could find is the error codes in the Fiido webpage:
Fiido Throttle Error Code indicator Guide
1. Flash 2 to stop: brake failure.
2. Flash 3 to stop: DC point is abnormal.
3. Quickly flash 4 times to stop: the lower tube is broken down.
4. Quickly stop 5 times: the upper tube is broken down.
5. Flash 6 times to stop: Hall failure.
6. Flash 7 times: the phase line is faulty.
7. Flash 8 times to stop: under voltage protection.
8. Flash 9 times to stop: stall protection.
9. Flash 10 times to stop: Speed control is faulty.
10. Flash 11 times to stop: Overvoltage protection.


Mine is flashing 4 times, but I have no idea what the lower tube is...

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thank you very much!
Totally guessing, as nobody else has tried to answer you yet, but have you checked the battery voltage with a meter yet?
It must between two carefully controlled voltages to allow power to the motor.
It might even just be fully discharged, or better said, discharged down to the point where no more current is allowed to be drawn.
The battery should never be totally empty, as this would damage the cells.
I cannot give you the voltage range for your battery, as you did not mention it's nominal voltage. I need that to be able to tell you where the battery should be.
You might try charging and see if that fixes the problem.....
I am sure that someone here can give you better help than I can, wait up!
regards
Andy
 

sandpingu

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 21, 2020
5
0
Totally guessing, as nobody else has tried to answer you yet, but have you checked the battery voltage with a meter yet?
It must between two carefully controlled voltages to allow power to the motor.
It might even just be fully discharged, or better said, discharged down to the point where no more current is allowed to be drawn.
The battery should never be totally empty, as this would damage the cells.
I cannot give you the voltage range for your battery, as you did not mention it's nominal voltage. I need that to be able to tell you where the battery should be.
You might try charging and see if that fixes the problem.....
I am sure that someone here can give you better help than I can, wait up!
regards
Andy
Hello Andy, thank you for you answer!
The battery indicator was saying that it was full, but im recharging it right now to see if maybe thats what it was faulty and the battery was drained.
I didnt test it with a voltmeter yet (dont have one home) but I will buy one tomorrow. According to the specification of the bike, the battery is a 36V 7.8Ah Li-ion battery.
Lets hope a full charge fixes it for now!! :D
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,906
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Led indicators aren't a reliable means for knowing a batteries actual SOC, definitely needs a proper reading via a meter.

As ref to #3 & 4 I can only assume that it is in relation to the battery layout of the cells and may be they are in a two parallel groups of ten which are then connected in series, the issue then being with a connection or balance with the ( lower tube) parallel group.

If charging the battery does not work then don't mess about and get the vendor to sort the issue out.
 
Last edited:

sandpingu

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 21, 2020
5
0
I just check the bike after almost 5h of charging to see if there are any changes:
First it seems to turn on on, no blinking LEDs
When I engage the throttle the back wheel starts to move slowly, like it had no juice, and then stops moving
LEDs start blinking again, 4 times in a row

Guess tomorrow I will go to work with my old bike o_O
 
D

Deleted member 25121

Guest
No need to do anything more with the bike, just contact the supplier.

It is faulty.
 
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Andy-Mat

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 26, 2018
2,214
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No need to do anything more with the bike, just contact the supplier.

It is faulty.
I agree with ebiker99, it sounds like a battery or possibly a charger problem to me personally.
For the OP, your battery when fully charged should indicate 42 volts, assuming the meter is accurate. But if its cheap meter, it may indicate slightly more or less. Compare it to a know good meter and remember the difference.
Lowest voltage will be generally be around 30 volts, or even a tiny tic less!
Batteries do self discharge, but the better the cells, the lower self discharge rate.
If you store the bike, check the battery say every 4 weeks, and keep the charge around 34 volts. Make a note on your mobile so that you don't forget!!
regards
Andy
 

sandpingu

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 21, 2020
5
0
while i await for the costumer service response (never again buying a buy online...) I used the voltmeter to check on the battery. It read 41.8, so I assume that the problem is somewhere else.
 
D

Deleted member 25121

Guest
while i await for the costumer service response (never again buying a buy online...) I used the voltmeter to check on the battery. It read 41.8, so I assume that the problem is somewhere else.
Anything between 41 and 43V is fine. It would be useful to see if the voltage dropped under load though, you'd need to have the bike on a repair frame or with the driven wheel held off the ground somehow, have the motor running and gently apply the brake on that wheel while measuring the voltage. If it drops by more than a volt or two then the battery is probably faulty.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,906
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West Sx RH
Anything between 41 and 43V is fine. It would be useful to see if the voltage dropped under load though, you'd need to have the bike on a repair frame or with the driven wheel held off the ground somehow, have the motor running and gently apply the brake on that wheel while measuring the voltage. If it drops by more than a volt or two then the battery is probably faulty.
I think a typo 43v :eek: ?

2 -3v sag can be par depending on the cells, P configuration and current drawn.
 
Last edited:
D

Deleted member 25121

Guest
I think a typo 43v :eek: ?
There was a thread a week or 2 ago where I showed that the variation on the nominal 42V plus the error of even a £200 DVM was +/-1V or so, so yes 41V to 43V.

It was the one where andy-mat was claiming that the indicated voltage was always 42.000V +/- 0V irrespective of configuration, cell type and DVM type.

2 -3v sag can be par depending on the cells, P configuration and current drawn.
Yeh, a few of volts drop is OK. It's not an exact science.
 

Andy-Mat

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 26, 2018
2,214
562
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There was a thread a week or 2 ago where I showed that the variation on the nominal 42V plus the error of even a £200 DVM was +/-1V or so, so yes 41V to 43V.

It was the one where andy-mat was claiming that the indicated voltage was always 42.000V +/- 0V irrespective of configuration, cell type and DVM type.



Yeh, a few of volts drop is OK. It's not an exact science.
If you had read my comment more carefully, I was ONLY speaking about my two meters! Both are 3 1/2 digit displays, so on the 200 volt range, there is only one decimal place shown, which is quite normal. Furthermore, I do not see the need to buy a 4 1/2 digit meter, for looking at e-bike batteries....
Both of which JUST HAPPEN to measure 42.0 on either of my batteries and the output of the charger.... I guess I am just lucky in having an apparently "good" charger and two good batteries and two good meters, you might say!
But I have noticed that a few here read what they want to read........
 
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D

Deleted member 25121

Guest
If you had read my comment more carefully, I was ONLY speaking about my two meters! Both are 3 1/2 digit displays, so on the 200 volt range, there is only one decimal place shown, which is quite normal. Furthermore, I do not see the need to buy a 4 1/2 digit meter, for looking at e-bike batteries....
Both of which JUST HAPPEN to measure 42.0 on either of my batteries and the output of the charger.... I guess I am just lucky in having an apparently "good" charger and two good batteries and two good meters, you might say!
But I have noticed that a few here read what they want to read........
No, you were claiming that good fully charged batteries always give a voltage of 42.0V when measured with a high quality DVM.
I'm please to see that you now acknowledge that it was merely a coincidence that this is what you measured.
Lesson learned I hope......
 

Andy-Mat

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 26, 2018
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No, you were claiming that good fully charged batteries always give a voltage of 42.0V when measured with a high quality DVM.
I'm please to see that you now acknowledge that it was merely a coincidence that this is what you measured.
Lesson learned I hope......
You are understanding again, what you want to understand.
Fact:- the correct voltage for a fully charged 36 volt nominal Li-ion battery is 42.0 volts.
You can read it in many places on the web, surely you have checked that out already?
So how would you make a "coincidence" out of a "fact", is really showing a poor understanding of the FACTS!
Here are two web sources showing the same voltages, so are they also "coincidences" in your head?
Know your high voltage cut off limit

Always use a charger that is designed for you pack. If you use the wrong charger you not only risk the long life of your pack it can also become a fire hazard. Make sure the charger’s maximum voltage matches the maximum voltage of your pack. Here is an example of maximum charge voltage for 18650 battery packs. If you do not know what your batteries maximum voltage is find out…and write it on a label on the battery so you never forget.

Here is an example of maximum voltages for popular Luna Cycle 18650 packs

10S (36V pack) – 42V max voltage

13S (48V pack) – 54.4V max voltage

14S (52V pack) – 58.8V max voltage
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Electric Bike Batteries Explained
Voltage: most e-bike kits are rated for a specific voltage range. A typical 36v ebike needs a battery that delivers power between 42v to 30v.
A 36v pack, at 42v is fully 100% charged and holding as much energy as it can and at 30v it should shut down and stop giving power before causing permanent damage..


QED
 
D

Deleted member 25121

Guest
You are understanding again, what you want to understand.
Fact:- the correct voltage for a fully charged 36 volt nominal Li-ion battery is 42.0 volts.
You can read it in many places on the web, surely you have checked that out already?
So how would you make a "coincidence" out of a "fact", is really showing a poor understanding of the FACTS!
Here are two web sources showing the same voltages, so are they also "coincidences" in your head?
Know your high voltage cut off limit
Always use a charger that is designed for you pack. If you use the wrong charger you not only risk the long life of your pack it can also become a fire hazard. Make sure the charger’s maximum voltage matches the maximum voltage of your pack. Here is an example of maximum charge voltage for 18650 battery packs. If you do not know what your batteries maximum voltage is find out…and write it on a label on the battery so you never forget.

Here is an example of maximum voltages for popular Luna Cycle 18650 packs

10S (36V pack) – 42V max voltage

13S (48V pack) – 54.4V max voltage


14S (52V pack) – 58.8V max voltage
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Electric Bike Batteries Explained
Voltage: most e-bike kits are rated for a specific voltage range. A typical 36v ebike needs a battery that delivers power between 42v to 30v.
A 36v pack, at 42v is fully 100% charged and holding as much energy as it can and at 30v it should shut down and stop giving power before causing permanent damage..


QED
Ah, so you haven't in fact learned your lesson. Again.
 

Andy-Mat

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 26, 2018
2,214
562
78
Ah, so you haven't in fact learned your lesson. Again.
I guess that is all you have left after being proven wrong!! Sad.....
Having been an instructor (as well as my normal duties) in both the RN and several large US computer companies over the last 50 years, one is used to working and (trying to) teach complete idjots!
Remember "Manners maketh man!"
 
D

Deleted member 25121

Guest
I guess that is all you have left after being proven wrong!! Sad.....
Having been an instructor (as well as my normal duties) in both the RN and several large US computer companies over the last 50 years, one is used to working and (trying to) teach complete idjots!
Remember "Manners maketh man!"
Moron.
 

Okoo

Just Joined
Feb 4, 2020
2
0
Hey everybody!
Last week week I bought a Fiido D2s and everything seemed to work smooth and perfect until this morning. While biking to work, in the last 100m the electric power stopped working and the LED controls began flashing. 8h later, when I had to go back home, the bike was doing the same thing, flashing LEDs, so I had to pedal the whole way.

I have no idea what is going on, as there is not much information online... the only thing I could find is the error codes in the Fiido webpage:
Fiido Throttle Error Code indicator Guide
1. Flash 2 to stop: brake failure.
2. Flash 3 to stop: DC point is abnormal.
3. Quickly flash 4 times to stop: the lower tube is broken down.
4. Quickly stop 5 times: the upper tube is broken down.
5. Flash 6 times to stop: Hall failure.
6. Flash 7 times: the phase line is faulty.
7. Flash 8 times to stop: under voltage protection.
8. Flash 9 times to stop: stall protection.
9. Flash 10 times to stop: Speed control is faulty.
10. Flash 11 times to stop: Overvoltage protection.


Mine is flashing 4 times, but I have no idea what the lower tube is...

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thank you very much!
Hi

Sorry not to be able to answer you. I have a fiido D1 and I was looking at the d2s. I was wondering if it is ok to pedal only. With the D1 if the battery dies or is empty. It is nearly impossible to pedal. Thank you for your feedback.
 

sandpingu

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 21, 2020
5
0
Hi

Sorry not to be able to answer you. I have a fiido D1 and I was looking at the d2s. I was wondering if it is ok to pedal only. With the D1 if the battery dies or is empty. It is nearly impossible to pedal. Thank you for your feedback.
Its impossible to pedal too, bike is way too heavy and the wheels are too small. Its torture
 

Funbiker2020

Just Joined
Dec 17, 2020
4
1
@sandpingu, regarding the error codes of the control, you seem to have the documentation or a link to it. Could you please send either the docu or the pointer to me. Thanks
 
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