MXUS xf07 270rmp general discussion & info

WheezyRider

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Probably more of a whim, for me, ever since I thought about de-cluttering the handlebar I have fancied one, LCD3 shows watts and voltage I can't say I have ever done a deep dive on what the LCD4 actually displays. The question is would any one want to buy an LCD5, I can't say I am over keen however I haven't seen it yet it's still in transit, I suppose if you stick to one level of PAS for any given journey it would be ok but I am constantly on my PAS levels esp in the winter months.

On a Mxus side of things and after sneaking a peek on the Woosh website at their Mxus 36v - I think I can get away with 13a-14a @ 48v circa max 700w(briefly)[14a/1.1=12.72a x 54=686w], they run theirs with a 36v 18a Lishui which would max at 756w

I've never had a MXUS, but 700W should not bother it much. I had a Voilamart 250W hub I used to thrash around at more than that, near continuously (c. 50 to 59 V at 15A, ie pushing 900W) and it coped with that fine. Even at spec, 15A at 36V is 540W and battery voltage when fresh pushes this close to 600W, so a 100W increase I would not expect to trouble it.

Is the motor marked as a 250W motor? The MXUS motors I've seen have all been labelled 350W.
 
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PC2017

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but 700W should not bother it much
Yeah that's my thinking, it is not marked with any wattage tbf, the YOSE 250w handled 650w easy and this Mxus is near identical excluding the factory RPM
 

WheezyRider

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Yeah that's my thinking, it is not marked with any wattage tbf, the YOSE 250w handled 650w easy and this Mxus is near identical.
If it's the same as my Yose Power 250W front motor, I'm running it at 20A at 36V nominal. So pushing 800W with a fresh battery and it seems fine so far. It's interesting with the Yose kit, it has an LCD that allows you to change the current and the Lishui controller seems to actually do as it's told and give 20A, even though it's rated at 15A (did a test with a Watt meter). The LCD lets you select up to 30A, but I didn't want to risk pushing the controller that hard!
 
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Neilgtis

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I recently bought a Yose Power front motor kit in 26" size.

The motor is marked as AKM. In comparison to the Bafang SWX02, it has nowhere near the torque and it is quite noisy.
I did a comparison hill climb, AKM (Yose Power) on 26" and Bafang SWX02 (G20.250 model) on a 700C wheel, the Bafang got the bike up the hill far more quickly and surprisingly, it used fewer Wh doing so.

It's ok, it does the job, but I would have preferred performance like the SWX02. I've never had a MXUS, that would be an interesting comparison.

It's interesting to see the torque comparison on the Whoosh site. However, I think these are manufacturer's quoted values and not real world numbers.
I fitted the yose 36v 250w front hub 26 inch
To my bike and I don’t think that’s it noisy don’t
Know what make of hub it is will look later
Update it’s a AKM
Neil
 
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sjpt

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Front hubs sound noisier because of their position in front of the rider.
Noise can come from square wave controller.
 
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PC2017

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Yose Power 250W
Black 201-220 rpm - I am on KT (sine)and my controller is dual on 48v 14a set at 14a. I purchased this mxus because it felt like it was dying, however the last 4 trips out, 1st had vibration the rest have been fine, it even feels less hinky. I read (on here) something about sensor and sensor-less controllers and dual capable, when it feels "hinky" it's akin to that squarewave noise, then the motor vibrates. switch off and on again and its fine for 12 mile easy - my head hurts. I am wondering if the controller is fluctuating between sensor and sensor-less and one or more halls are failing or losing connection??
 

WheezyRider

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Black 201-220 rpm - I am on KT (sine)and my controller is dual on 48v 14a set at 14a. I purchased this mxus because it felt like it was dying, however the last 4 trips out, 1st had vibration the rest have been fine, it even feels less hinky. I read (on here) something about sensor and sensor-less controllers and dual capable, when it feels "hinky" it's akin to that squarewave noise, then the motor vibrates. switch off and on again and its fine for 12 mile easy - my head hurts. I am wondering if the controller is fluctuating between sensor and sensor-less and one or more halls are failing or losing connection??

It might not be the Hall sensors on the motor, it might be something wrong in the controller. My first Voilamart controller was a dual mode version, but the sensor mode failed after a while and made the motor noisy. I was sent a replacement controller and then the noise went away. Maybe a wire is loose inside the controller? Poor connection?
 
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PC2017

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Maybe a wire is loose inside the controller? Poor connection?
I did replicate the fault albeit briefly with another controller and have toyed with idea that it could be a damaged wire in the hella long YOSE motor cable, i did find a few worn patches on the outer cabling, it is possible that a slight move of the cable may create or resolve the fault. That said if I do install the new Mxus and the fault appears then controller would be in the crosshairs. The motor has had a good life of 11000 miles.
 

ak136

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Has anyone tried running the mxus kit from pswpower with a 48v battery? Mine is shutting off throttle and pas every 5 mins of riding. After turning off then on it works then again. I contacted pswpower and they say the kit is only for 36v. But controller says 36/48v??
 

Sturmey

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Has anyone tried running the mxus kit from pswpower with a 48v battery? Mine is shutting off throttle and pas every 5 mins of riding. After turning off then on it works then again. I contacted pswpower and they say the kit is only for 36v. But controller says 36/48v??
You are asking too much to run this motor at 48v.(imo) The motor is 270 rpm @ 36v but at 48v the motor rpm increases by 30% to over 350 rpm. It would be ok with a smaller wheel (e.g 20 inch) or if you were very fit and could give plenty of leg power to keep the bike running fast.
 

sjpt

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You are asking too much to run this motor at 48v.(imo) The motor is 270 rpm @ 36v but at 48v the motor rpm increases by 30% to over 350 rpm. It would be ok with a smaller wheel (e.g 20 inch) or if you were very fit and could give plenty of leg power to keep the bike running fast.
Tony at Woosh said something similar to us when I asked about our XF07 he had supplied.
 

PC2017

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PC2017

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I run mine, 48v KT LCD3 my controller is 14a (third party KT) - I never tried the LCD5 but if you get into the C parameters then find amp draw and change the setting to 14a or less, you lose a little top speed. In the summer I ran it at 13a to keep the heat down but as of now in temps as low as -6 it's been running fine at 14a with no issues.

KT LCD3 same a LCD5 settings

If not it could be the dual voltage controller, I have yet the need to try it the kit controller, however I have noted on many occasions they can have troubles with voltage sensing. Sometimes if I alternate between a 36v bat and a 48v, they often think a 48v bat at 42v is a full 36v bat & once or twice a 36v at 42v has triggered LVC (low voltage cut off) my advise on a 48v battery on a dual voltage controller is not to pass 42v or 41v at a push.

What is your 48v battery full charge read as??
 
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Nealh

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LCD3 seems by far the best model to use , I hadLCD4 issues.
 

sajmonsez

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Hi

So I ordered from Pswpower xf07 motor and 36 volt battery hailong g56. I am new to this so if you can help me.
It says it has controler included, so is it just plug and play? Does it need soldering?
Also I bought hydraulic brake sensor because I have hydraulic brakes. It is said to be for bafang. Does it work with this kit?
 

saneagle

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Hi

So I ordered from Pswpower xf07 motor and 36 volt battery hailong g56. I am new to this so if you can help me.
It says it has controler included, so is it just plug and play? Does it need soldering?
Also I bought hydraulic brake sensor because I have hydraulic brakes. It is said to be for bafang. Does it work with this kit?
You need to show us what you ordered. How much did you pay too?

IIRC, Bafang brake sensors are not plug-and-play with KT controllers. You have to cut the cable and swap the wires into the right connection sequence. You don't need brake sensors with a KT controller.
 
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PC2017

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It is said to be for bafang. Does it work with this kit?
Disclaimer - I did not use the kit even though I got a kit, I just needed the motor.

The kit is a kit, all should be plug and play, if you purchased the battery from PSWpower or elsewhere you may need to fashion a cable to add length depending on the distance between battery & controller, I soldered and extension cable with XT90 connectors, not as easy as it sounds but please do source the correct gauge wire for the amps. DO NOT allow controller neg and positive to short if you solder a connector on it, there may be some charge in the CAPS.

Bafang brake sensors are not
I would say' try before you snip, If memory serves correct the 4 to 1 cable was not the KT standard & in most kit cases, PSW/YOSE are OEM (still JULET but either 2 pin/3 pin and/or male female) on the 4to1 cables where brake connectors are concerned. My OEM brake sensors are Dillenger they do not fit YOSE 4to1 nor the PSW 4to1 but all are KT