There's nothing in EN 15194 that says you have to limit the current in any way. The limit on the rating is for the motor. i.e. the motor has to be marked/catalogued or otherwise specified as 250w. You can have whatever controller you want. The standard can't put any limit on the current because it's different at different rpm. You can have 20A and 36v (720w), which is the power from the battery - nothing to do with output power. When hill-climbing, you can have an efficiency as low as 30%, which would be about 200w of output power. Likewise when the motor is above say 60% of max rpm, the back emf cuts down the current, eventually to zero at max rpm, regardless of any controller setting.
FYI, I've seen some very powerful motors marked as 250w. I know of Bafang BBS01s marked 250w 36v 25A, and I've seen some big hub-motors marked 250w, that appear to be identical to others marked 500w. There's nothing illegal about that. It's not a loop-hole.
The standard (EN 15194) is the law. It's the written word that counts. Whilst those that wrote it probably didn't intend it, the way they wrote it does allow it.
Intended or not, it's virtually impossible to tie down the actual power of an electric bike to any sort of standard without either making the bike unrideable or making the standard so that it can't be defeated by the way the electrics on the bike work.
Finally, Mr Amps Bikes, in the unlikely event that you can't understand this, or to confirm that it's correct, next time you get a bike certified, put a 20A controller on it and see if it passes. I'll personally bail you out for the cost of the retest if it doesn't.