Lifespan of an ebike?

[Mussels]

My bike is out of warranty now and I got a bit of a shock at the price of a proprietary replacement part*, it was several times more expensive than I expected.

This got me thinking about where I would draw the line and decide that the bike was beyond economical repair. If the battery needed replacing then I'd be happy to if the rest of the bike was in A1 condition but if it needed replacing now I'm not so sure I would, after all the Alfine hub may go soon, the brake calipers need replacing, the brake cutouts need replacing, I want to replace the handlebars etc etc etc.

At what point do you think a bike should be broken up rather than patched up, do you intend to keep yours running forever or intend to replace it regularly?
I was in the keep it running camp but I've become self employed recently so a breakdown could cost me dearly if I miss work so I'll probably look at replacing it later this year.

* My silly fault really as the fault was identified whilst it was still in warranty, I just didn't get my finger out to get it sorted. I don't want to spend £45 on a lock that has either proved unreliable or is not causing the problem. I'll probably just bypass it and remove the point of failure.

 

[tillson]

This is a tricky question and I don't know the answer.

Would I buy a new Panasonic motor at £400 - £500 for my four year old Pro Connect? :- I honestly don't know.

Would I buy a new Alfine gear unit? :- Maybe, but what if the motor gave up?

I'd just have to decide when / if it happens.

 

[Caph]

I don't think the question is about ebike cost. It should be about the motor/controller/battery cost. A bike is a bike is a bike, handlebars cost £20, gear mechs cost a tenner maybe twenty, etc, etc, everything on a bike is measured in the low tens of pounds (you can even get a complete wheel from Halfords for £30). They cost very little to keep running. I replaced everything on mine apart from the frame for £400 and the parts are way, way better than 95% of ebikes on the market.

If a new battery costs £200 and a complete new kit (battery/controller/cutouts/pedelec sensor, throttle, hub motor and wheel) costs £400 then I don't see the problem. If the battery goes, replace it. If more than the battery goes then just buy a complete new kit. If you're not happy with your bike then buy a new one for £200 - £500 and transfer the kit you've got.

Remember, an ebike isn't restricted to the battery/motor/controller you've got. A complete new kit can be fitted to any ebike.

EDIT - I've just realised you said you've got an Alfine gear system. Again, though, you shouldn't feel this is exclusively part of the ebike, it is just a gear mech (albeit 1000% more expensive than a standard Shimano gear mech). Any ebike kit will work just as well with an Alfine as with a Tourney, unless you've got a crank drive system, then you might well be stuck with having to buy a complete new bike and motor.

 

[Del 80]

I was always a believer of the ''patch it up and keep it running'' way of thinking, but with E-bikes I'm not so sure, I think with certain components being so expensive, it would'nt make economical sense to do this, I'm only on my first E-bike, and hope to have it several years, and then replace it with a new one, by which time things may have improved, trouble nowadays is nothing is built to last........Del.

 

[Scimitar]

If I had a proprietary e-bike and a major component went on the fritz, I'd look at replacing it with a generic; no shortage of Chinese parts out there. Batteries - just re-cell them.
My home-build is in a constant state of flux anyway, as I add and remove bits as the mood suits. For my next build I've learned a lot from this one and the starting point will be a sturdy older model bike with good components but will end up with central drive and an extended frame.
E-bikes don't really change the fundamentals of cycling mechanics or economics and the parts are always available at the right price if you know where to look.

 

[Davanti]

... trouble nowadays is nothing is built to last........Del.

Neither are we ... but the bl**dy NHS keep prolonging our sad dreary lives ... forcing us to put up with aches and pains ... giving our ageing offspring the responsibility of keeping us going with ever decreasing probability of a decent cash inheritance ... Oh God ... take me away from all this cr*p ... or my life might descend into typing rubbish like this on an old man's e-bike forum!

On the other hand ... in a few hours the sun's up! ... why not don the specs, the gloves, the brightly coloured wind cheater and ride off into the bright new morning on the mind-blowing exhilarating super-duper Wisper 905sel electric bicycle! !!

Is that a truck approaching on the wrong side of the road? Bugg*r!! I'm not ready yet!

Oh! Its OK, just dreaming! Mmmm ... if I have a shave tomorrow, I might just go into town ... on the pull? ...

 

[flecc]

Depends too much on usage to have one answer really. A daily ridden hard used e-bike could have only a three to five year economic life if one isn't to end up spending near to the original cost keeping it on the road.

But the casually used leisure bike can be economic over up to a decade and there have been numerous examples of that. A number of Giant Lafree bikes have cost their leisure user owners probably less than 50% of the original cost over 7 to 10 years of ownership and still working. In those up to five years old they've often cost nothing!

 

[KirstinS]

Hi Mussels

Have you really managed to kill an Alfine hub ? If thats true I'm astounded - i find they are nearly bombproof and that includes abusing them on a mountain bike setup ( as task they were not designed for)

I'd be intruiged to know how many miles, if serviced ever, how abused it is. And if its a 11 or an 8 speed. There is some anecdotal evidence to suggest the 11 is less reliable

 

[amigafan2003]

Lifespan of an ebike?

Indeffinate.

Like cars, anything can be kept running given the required expertise and funds.

Like cars, bike will only be scrapped when:-

1: You can't find anyone to fix it.
2: Or you decide you don't want to spend the money to fix it.

 

[jazper53]

Depends too much on usage to have one answer really. A daily ridden hard used e-bike could have only a three to five year economic life if one isn't to end up spending near to the original cost keeping it on the road.

But the casually used leisure bike can be economic over up to a decade and there have been numerous examples of that. A number of Giant Lafree bikes have cost their leisure user owners probably less than 50% of the original cost over 7 to 10 years of ownership and still working. In those up to five years old they've often cost nothing!

I think i come under that heading Leisure user only, and would be plesesd to get 10 years use, with maybe a change of battery when required, but that would be dependent on the supplier being around for that length of time as well.

 

[Mussels]

Hi Mussels

Have you really managed to kill an Alfine hub ? If thats true I'm astounded - i find they are nearly bombproof and that includes abusing them on a mountain bike setup ( as task they were not designed for)

I'd be intruiged to know how many miles, if serviced ever, how abused it is. And if its a 11 or an 8 speed. There is some anecdotal evidence to suggest the 11 is less reliable

It's still holding up well at the moment but somewhere my drivetrain is missing a cog every now and then, it seems random at the moment which points to the chain but I only notice it in three gears which points to a hub problem. I'll swap the chain before condemning the hub. It's the 8 speed so should really last a long time yet. If the battery was to fail (the cells seem fine ATM) and I decided to scrap the bike then I'd keep the back wheel assembly as a hot swap spare for the new bike, the train fares I'd incur for a failed back wheel make it worthwhile.

 

[KirstinS]

ahh, that does make a bit more sense then as the 7 is a Nexus rather than an Alfine (confusingly there i s both a Nexux and an Alfine 8 speed though)

The Nexus, whilst still light years ahead of the old sturmey 3 speeds, is not as reliable/bullet proof as the Alfine

 

[Mussels]

I don't think the question is about ebike cost. It should be about the motor/controller/battery cost. A bike is a bike is a bike, handlebars cost £20, gear mechs cost a tenner maybe twenty, etc, etc, everything on a bike is measured in the low tens of pounds (you can even get a complete wheel from Halfords for £30). They cost very little to keep running. I replaced everything on mine apart from the frame for £400 and the parts are way, way better than 95% of ebikes on the market.

If a new battery costs £200 and a complete new kit (battery/controller/cutouts/pedelec sensor, throttle, hub motor and wheel) costs £400 then I don't see the problem. If the battery goes, replace it. If more than the battery goes then just buy a complete new kit. If you're not happy with your bike then buy a new one for £200 - £500 and transfer the kit you've got.

Remember, an ebike isn't restricted to the battery/motor/controller you've got. A complete new kit can be fitted to any ebike.

This works if you started with a kit rather than a dedicated ebike frame and is a big reason I'll probably go for a kit next time. I think the DaaHuub* married to a tourer with dropped bars and disc brakes would be a great solution for me and would work the way you're thinking.

*My luggage racks take a pounding and I really don't want a battery on top of them as well, I like the in frame battery the Wisper kit gives.

 

[Mussels]

ahh, that does make a bit more sense then as the 7 is a Nexus rather than an Alfine (confusingly there i s both a Nexux and an Alfine 8 speed though)

The Nexus, whilst still light years ahead of the old sturmey 3 speeds, is not as reliable/bullet proof as the Alfine

Sorry my typo, I have the 8 speed Alfine.

 

[neptune]

Ebikes should definitely be scrapped after 3 years, and be replaced with new ones. All the old ones should be sent to me to play with! Much depends on what you use the bike for and if you have the time and inclination to do some tinkering. If you use the bike to replace a car for commuting, or for business, then reliability is paramount. In that case you may not be able to find the time for repair and maintenance.
On the other hand if you are retired, you will have less money and more time, and you may enjoy workshop time. I shall probably ride my old Powabyke until it falls in half.

 

[Mussels]

Ebikes should definitely be scrapped after 3 years, and be replaced with new ones. All the old ones should be sent to me to play with! Much depends on what you use the bike for and if you have the time and inclination to do some tinkering. If you use the bike to replace a car for commuting, or for business, then reliability is paramount. In that case you may not be able to find the time for repair and maintenance.
On the other hand if you are retired, you will have less money and more time, and you may enjoy workshop time. I shall probably ride my old Powabyke until it falls in half.

I enjoy the workshop time and most jobs on the bike don't take long, a bigger problem for me is waiting to get the parts delivered. Fortunately most breakdowns tend to happen on the way home, I've not worked out why yet.

 

[jerrysimon]

In over 3500 miles and nearly three years of commuting I had the first puncture half way home in the rain a couple of weeks ago. I had to stop and repair it

Actually not as bad as I thought even though it was a rear Brompton wheel. I had a spare tube and it was done in about 10-15mins.

All the others puncture (about 4) have been either arriving at work or home.

PS I am told I should see out at least 10 years with my steel Brompton frame by which time I will need a cwah type conversion that requires me not to pedal at all

Regards

Jerry

 

[benjy_a]

Long live the Bromptons! I'm up to 500 miles on mine already (in just over a month) and that's using my 2 year old Juicybike battery! My Cellman Lifepo4 has been shipped

I think commuter bikes are actually likely to last longer as I find I'm constantly checking it and keeping it adjusted just to make sure it won't let me down.

Ben

 

[Biker44]

Depends too much on usage to have one answer really.

My thoughts the same. If you've space in the garage, then you should buy a second bike once the shine has gone off the first one.

And that principle applies even more if you're dependent on the bike - you should have a new one ready to hop onto immediately. (How many of us only have one computer these days - I have 4 in regular use!)

If you're really, really dependent on your e-bike for getting to work, then your second machine should be the same make and model as the first, in order you can cannibalise. Won't do you any good if the first one is stolen, but hey. lets be optimistic.

I'm getting the impression that a reasonable e-bike can do at least 5,000 miles and maybe a lot more than that. I'm a leisure rider, I don't expect to wear out what I've got, but I expect the battery to die after a maximum of 5 years of gentle use.

When the battery dies, I'll do a rain-check and perhaps re-cell the casing of the battery once, for 10 years in total, absolute outside. But it's much more likely that (even though a new battery is much cheaper by then) new bicycles will have improved greatly as well and I'll have something different.

 

[flecc]

I'm getting the impression that a reasonable e-bike can do at least 5,000 miles

Based on these three:

Hub motor e-bikes tend to suffer much earlier motor/electrical problems than the crank drive units like the Panasonic one, but even hub motors don't tend to suffer from worn out internal gears before 5000 miles. The majority will last up to twice as long and those gears are easily replaceable anyway.

A 20 miles a day round trip five day week commuter will cover around 5000 miles year.

One of today's better li-polymer batteries capable of 1100 charges over four years or so can result in as much as 30,000 to 40,000 miles travelled. One manufacturer is claiming 45,000 miles maximum for one of their battery sizes.

I'd conclude that it's the cycle parts that are the most likely to be troublesome and costly over the first two to four years, with chains, sprockets, brake pads, tyres and tubes needing to be replaced at least. Occasional spokes and bearings are other possibilities for replacements.