KT LCD5 controller issue with throttle and PAS

[CycleEye]

I have been running a KT LCD5 controller on my 48v rear hub motor without problem.

I replaced the KT LCD as the previous one's display was partially broken, although still working fine.

However, although it's exactly the same controller, the throttle seems to have broken in the process of swapping it around, it just randomly stopped working, including with the original controller.

The pas also doesn't work on the new controller, although it still works on the old one. As far as I can see you don't have to turn the PAS mode on, it should just be on automatically. So I'm really stumped.

Is my throttle just broken? And why the f isn't the PAS working? Any help appreciated.

 

[saneagle]

I have been running a KT LCD5 controller on my 48v rear hub motor without problem.

I replaced the KT LCD as the previous one's display was partially broken, although still working fine.

However, although it's exactly the same controller, the throttle seems to have broken in the process of swapping it around, it just randomly stopped working, including with the original controller.

The pas also doesn't work on the new controller, although it still works on the old one. As far as I can see you don't have to turn the PAS mode on, it should just be on automatically. So I'm really stumped.

Is my throttle just broken? And why the f isn't the PAS working? Any help appreciated.

All the settings are kept in the LCD, so when you get a new one, you have to go through all the settings and make them right.

 

[CycleEye]

All the settings are kept in the LCD, so when you get a new one, you have to go through all the settings and make them right.

Yes, I know. I did.

That doesn't explain either of the issues, or why the throttle would stop working on the old controller. PAS shouldn't need turning on.

 

[saneagle]

Yes, I know. I did.

That doesn't explain either of the issues, or why the throttle would stop working on the old controller. PAS shouldn't need turning on.

You haven't made it at all clear what you've done. You mention two LCDs, two controllers and one throttle, Why didn't you just replace the LCD if it was broken? What exactly did you do? Exlain step by step what you did and what problems you had with what and when.

 

[CycleEye]

Sorry, I'm probably confusing things with the word controller.

I didn't replace the controller, I replaced the LCD. I set up all the settings on the new one. The PAS didn't work on the new one, the throttle did.

I put the old display back on to check the PAS was working. It was. The throttle suddenly stopped working, and now send to be broken.

So the two problems are, the throttle is broken, and the PAS doesn't seem to work on the new display, even though it's the same display and I've set it all up as far as I can tell.

 

[CycleEye]

Update: I have identified the issue stopping the PAS working, it was a faulty brake sensor.

So I just need to work out my the throttle isn't working.

Also, I can't access full speed on the new LCD even though it is a KTLCD5 like the previous unit.

I have changed the top speed in settings.

Any ideas on either of these greatly appreciated!

 

[Nealh]

Check all of your connections including the Julet motor cable joint .
Other wise double check all of the setting parameters again.

 

[saneagle]

Please give us all your settings so that we can check them.

 

[CycleEye]

The connections seem fine to the eye. See attached.

Settings are:

P1 200
P2 1
P3 1
P4 0
P5 01

C1 01
C2 0
C3 8
C4 2
C5 10
C6 3
C7 0
C8 0
C9 0
C10 N
C11 0
C12 4
C13 0
C14 2
C15 6

Top speed is 72.

The old display is broken so I can't see what was working there unfortunately, even though it still works and full speed is still accessible, even though the throttle doesn't work on that either.

Thank you.

 

[saneagle]

P1 needs to be set correctly for the motor to cut off at your selected speed. The device uses the speed sensor to calculate the speed for the LCD, but it uses hall sensor pulses or back emf pulses to calculate the speed for the cut-off.

Which motor do you have? P2=1 is for geared hub-motors that have a single magnet in the hub for the speed sensor, or for any motor using an external speed sensor.

P5 should be much higher (about 20 -25) to get a meaningful indication of the battery charge as a fuel gauge. It's a damper. The higher the value, the more the damping.

C4=0 is the setting for independent throttle with no speed limit.

 

[Nealh]

P1 seems very high , which hub motor is it ?
P5 15 - 20.
C4/2 is speed limit specified, when you enter in to C4/2 it should show the limit set.
This may be affected by P1 being set wrong.

Bar that if still having issues, try a reset with C10.

 

[CycleEye]

P1 needs to be set correctly for the motor to cut off at your selected speed. The device uses the speed sensor to calculate the speed for the LCD, but it uses hall sensor pulses or back emf pulses to calculate the speed for the cut-off.

Which motor do you have? P2=1 is for geared hub-motors that have a single magnet in the hub for the speed sensor, or for any motor using an external speed sensor.

P5 should be much higher (about 20 -25) to get a meaningful indication of the battery charge as a fuel gauge. It's a damper. The higher the value, the more the damping.

C4=0 is the setting for independent throttle with no speed limit.

Thank you, appreciated.

That's all useful, but I don't think addresses my central problems, i.e. why I can't unlock full speed and why the throttle might have stopped working.

Any ideas on that would be very welcome.

 

[CycleEye]

P1 seems very high , which hub motor is it ?
P5 15 - 20.
C4/2 is speed limit specified, when you enter in to C4/2 it should show the limit set.
This may be affected by P1 being set wrong.

Bar that if still having issues, try a reset with C10.

Thanks. I've tried P1 at different values, including 50 and 100. It doesn't seem to change anything.

Again, I can't see that any of this would explain the throttle not working whatsoever.

 

[matthewslack]

Your picture in #9 shows greenish deposit in the connector which if conductive would bridge the two pins it is touching.

That would have an effect...

 

[CycleEye]

Your picture in #9 shows greenish deposit in the connector which if conductive would bridge the two pins it is touching.

That would have an effect...

Thanks. Any idea how I could get rid of that?

 

[matthewslack]

Thanks. Any idea how I could get rid of that?

I would try gentle scraping with a small screwdriver, and either a cotton bud or a bit of kitchen paper towel and the screwdriver to wipe out anything that comes away.

 

[CycleEye]

I would try gentle scraping with a small screwdriver, and either a cotton bud or a bit of kitchen paper towel and the screwdriver to wipe out anything that comes away.

Thanks, will do.

 

[thelarkbox]

Isopropanol (IPA) 70-99% alcohol and a gentle toothbrush is a good way to clean pcb's clear nail polish can be a cheap waterproof coating to hamper future corrosion

 

[Nealh]

One can't use any coating on the pins outs, otherwise one will lose the contact.
The green staining is moisture ingress on the copper pins and then causes the tracking, in this case it doesn't look like tracking has connected a pair of pins .

 

[thelarkbox]

One can't use any coating on the pins outs, otherwise one will lose the contact.
The green staining is moisture ingress on the copper pins and then causes the tracking, in this case it doesn't look like tracking has connected a pair of pins .

indeed yes, i should have browsed up to see the green plug.. not a pcb..