Help! KT LCD3 eBike display "info 03" error

[mxer]

Hi members need a little technical help if at all possible.

My apologies for posting as I have tried to search this issue..

I have a new display module kit KT LCD3 36V complete kit so basically just had a battery and motor on the bike to connect this kit too..

The motor has a fancy all in one 9 pin connector.

I have followed the wire colours from the new controller hall and phase to this 9 pin wire spliced.

So basically everything is plug and play (throttle,Pas,brakes etc) except the 3 phase and 6 halls which I have colour coded soldered.

The bike turns on normal (even shows motor temp) pic, but as soon as I throttle up I get an error code? (Info 03) pic. The manual shows "motor hall signal abnormality"..

I get a nice firm click on the 9pin connector at the motor and pins look fine and arrows line up fine?...

Is there a possibility that the motor hall and phase could be wrong even though I have match the coloured wires hall and phase correct?.. it's the only thing I can think of that's the problem (will I Hurt the motor mixing wires ie green to yellow etc??..)..

I get nothing from the motor at all not even a grown or a twitch! I hand spun the wheel backwards to reset the halls but nothing!..

Wheel was working fine before I had a bad cheap non digital display!..

Any ideas?... willing to try anything as it can't get any worst than not working at all lol..

Many thanks in advance...

Ps, my apologies I have fitted the display upside down on the pics lol

 

[vfr400]

First, make sure that the motor connector is properly together. There is a line that marks how far it has to go, regardless of anything else.

You can't always connect colour to colour. from memory, the last guy who had that with a KT controller only had to swap a couple of phase wires - possibly green and yellow, but i don't know where I got that from or whether I just dreamed it.

Another thing that worked for somebody was changing C2 from 0 to 1.

 

[mxer]

Nice one vfr I'll be giving it a go once I finish work tonight and will report back, cheers dude much appreciated

 

[Nealh]

How are you trying to actuate the hub by throttle or PAS ?

 

[mxer]

Throttle = info 03
Pas = nothing
Walk button = info 03

 

[mxer]

Vfr tried green to yellow and yellow to green on the phase = same nothing? 03 info

Then tried c2 01 and same nothing? 03 info.

Tried resetting the display to factory incase I accidentally moved some values.

And same results no noise no movement at all, just info 03..

Pas doesn't seem to trigger it, not that it's doing anything anyway.. it's only throttle and walk function that triggers "info 03"..

I guess I play with hall wires next? Swapping three colours around but I would off thought mixing the phase wires would of done something??..

Re checked the 9pin plug and it's right up to the arrows and the line??..

Hope I'm not going to be at this for hours!!.. wish me some luck lol..

Thanks again for your input members

 

[mxer]

I've tried a few yellow green combinations hall and phase and absolutely nothing!. I thought I'd of got something by now?... All info 03!.

I'm lost

 

[Nealh]

If PAS doesn't trigger 03 then the fault might be the throttle hall.
It can be tested, if you have block connectors then testing is much easier.
Stuff your probes up the back of the throttle /controller connection.
5v should read between 5V & Gnd.
1v or so between Gnd & Sig & 4v - 5v when throttle activated.

Personally I would disconnect the throttle and get the PAS working first.
Check PAS wires to controller connector are in sequence 5v to 5v , Gnd to Gnd, Sig to Sig. If not sure show us the connection. Next tell us which PAS is being used as the parameter setting needs to be of the correct value, other wise PAS will not work. Once working the throttle can be sorted.

 

[Nealh]

The temp reading isn't for the hub, it is just ambient air temp. The hub has no heat sensor inside.

 

[mxer]

Thank you Nealh I'd just about give up I'm getting nothing swooping wires about so to be given another avenue is great, thank you.

I'm going to start again but work on getting Pas to work.

Fortunately I ordered 2 throttles (half, and thumb) and 2 Pas (8 and 12) they both only plug into on connector (pic) beings as the 8 Pas came with the kit I guess I'm plugging into the right connection?..

But it's separate from the throttle group?. So I hope I'm using the right connection?..

Here's some pics.

 

[mxer]

We have a update, a friend of mine let me plug my set up into his wheel and it works perfectly not the same motor but I'm now thinking my motor is gone!.. must be?.

It's a mxus any ideas how to get into it? If at all possible?..

Also I'm not getting good feeling about this so may aswell as if anyone has a spare motor for sale or know of where I could get one?.

Thank you all

 

[mxer]

Found the problem (smile)

 

[YORKSHIREEXILE1]

Found the problem (smile)

Hi

I'm no expert but I agree, you appear to have found your problem

Cheers

Ian

 

[Nealh]

If you want a project one can try and replace the motor cable but does mean opening the hub and some careful work, alternatively Woosh may do the work for you.
Other wise opt for AKM100c or 128c as a replacement lighter and powerful small hubs.

 

[mxer]

All up and running (massive smile) thank you all..

Soldered the wires and all good, had to change c1 value to C1=3 for 12 magnet left hand side crank to get the updated 12 magnet Pas to work.

Excellent thanks again members and hope this helps folks out in the future..

 

[PC2017]

 

[Nealh]

Good job, it isn't always possible to solder them very well when they break at the axle, if ever deciding to replace a motor cable through the axle any of the buttery spreads or marg is good and will make any sliding/pulling cable through much easier. A bit of spread on a cable and it is slippery like an eel.

 

[mxer]

I would replace the cable if the motor had screws holding it together but unfortunately the mxus hub motor has a 3 plug special tool (or make one) to split the motor in two, what a pain in the A job that I don't fancy lol..

 

[mxer]

Pic from YouTube.. they guy made a special tool but still managed to ruin his motor rendering it useless.. so didn't go for it

 

[vfr400]

I've taken them apart using a 5mm cap screw sitting upside down in the dimple, then whack it with a big hammer and drift. The trick is to heat up the motor between the spokes with a hot air gun until it's just too hot to touch. if you don't use heat, all those type of screw on plate motors are very difficult to open. Also, you need to draw a pencil line across the join so that you can see if you're making any progress. It has to go about an inch before you can unscrew by hand.