Kona Ute mid-drive conversion: advice appreciated

peter.c

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The chain ring on the tsdz2 is dished inwards the small chain wheels are flat just because it will fit the spider does not mean it will work, with out modification with spacers to get the chain line have tried several times it works in the end after some fabrication, my 42 on the rear is fun for hill starts :oops:
Sorry not tried the psw with lg cells
 
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Nealh

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LG make some great cells, though like many well known brands they also produce medocre ones. It really does depend on the actual cell used.
 
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Peddlin' Pedro

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Thanks, both

The chain ring on the tsdz2 is dished inwards the small chain wheels are flat just because it will fit the spider does not mean it will work, with out modification with spacers to get the chain line have tried several times it works in the end after some fabrication, my 42 on the rear is fun for hill starts :oops:
Sorry not tried the psw with lg cells
I'm used to a wide-range cassette on my daily hack (42/10-42) so will be interesting to see how things work out. It's a long-cage Deore mech on it so reasonably certain it'd take a bigger cassette if needed. Reluctant to throw too much money at the drivetrain until I've decided on the the Nuvinci/Enviolo (whatever they're calling them now).

LG make some great cells, though like many well known brands they also produce medocre ones. It really does depend on the actual cell used.
They're a bit vague on the specific cell, listing it only as a 5P13S Li-ion, which is a nominal spec rather than a specific model/sku: http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2019-7y-bu86
 

Nealh

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Thanks, both


I'm used to a wide-range cassette on my daily hack (42/10-42) so will be interesting to see how things work out. It's a long-cage Deore mech on it so reasonably certain it'd take a bigger cassette if needed. Reluctant to throw too much money at the drivetrain until I've decided on the the Nuvinci/Enviolo (whatever they're calling them now).


They're a bit vague on the specific cell, listing it only as a 5P13S Li-ion, which is a nominal spec rather than a specific model/sku: http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2019-7y-bu86
The price suggests good cells might be used like the MJ1, but without more cell specs it is a guess the only other cell is the newer M36 cell.
 
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Peddlin' Pedro

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The price suggests good cells might be used like the MJ1, but without more cell specs it is a guess the only other cell is the newer M36 cell.
I've emailed and Skyped them to see if they can clarify but nothing back yet. Will post any response I get so others can find the information if they need it.
 

Peddlin' Pedro

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The price suggests good cells might be used like the MJ1, but without more cell specs it is a guess the only other cell is the newer M36 cell.
Alice from PSWPower emailed back and advised that the cells used are: 'INR18650 MJ1 3500mAh'.
On that basis, I've ordered the kit. Thanks again, I'm really grateful for all the advice.

I'll try and remember to take pics of the build and post a build-log when I'm done.
 
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Nealh

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MJ1 is an excellent cell and the best 3500mah /10a cell.
The sister cell the M36 is also another great cell from the same stable, rating is only 5a but independent cycle/current testing suggests that it handles 10a quite well.
 
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Gavin

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I'll try and remember to take pics of the build and post a build-log when I'm done.
Hopefully you'll have it done by next weekend!

Seriously though, good luck with the build and please do show off the finished article- I'm really interested in this one.

Cheers


Gavin
 
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Peddlin' Pedro

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Hopefully you'll have it done by next weekend!

Seriously though, good luck with the build and please do show off the finished article- I'm really interested in this one.

Cheers
Gavin
Thanks Gavin. May be a couple of weeks as need to strip the hubs and still looking for replacement brakes as the old Shimanos I was planning to use are too far gone. Also needs new pedals, grips, saddle, chain and possibly cassette as the teeth are starting to hook. Still debating wide-range cassette or Enviolo hub.

Any thoughts on decent lights with a flashing mode that will connect to the unit?
 

Nealh

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I use bright steady lights.
 

Peddlin' Pedro

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I use bright steady lights.
Absolutely a good idea at night as they help drivers gauge distance more than blinkies and don't dazzle as much. I'm likely to be riding this more in daylight hours though so could do with the extra visibility.

Also, while I remember, if you're buying through Paypal and the seller lists in dollars, don't let Paypal force you to buy in GBP as you'll get hammered on the exchange rate.

Instead, if you click the link under the price in the Paypal transaction window you can choose to pay in dollars and then benefit from the significantly better exchange rate offered by whichever debit or credit card you use via Paypal. Mastercard tends to offer the best rate and I saved about £35 by going with that option rather than just letting Paypal scam me on GBP. Goes without saying that you'll want to settle the outstanding balance on your card by month-end or the interest will quickly outweigh the savings you've made.
 
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Nealh

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[QUOTE="Peddlin' Pedro, post: 565079, member: 19422"

Also, while I remember, if you're buying through Paypal and the seller lists in dollars, don't let Paypal force you to buy in GBP.

Instead, if you click the link under the price in the Paypal transaction window you can choose to pay in dollars and then benefit from the significantly better exchange rate offered by whichever debit or credit card you use via Paypal. Mastercard tends to offer the best rate and I saved about £35 by going with that option rather than just letting Paypal scam me on GBP.
[/QUOTE]

An excellent bit of advice PP.
 

Peddlin' Pedro

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Not managed to get stuck into this build yet but have spent a few minutes here and there offering up the battery pack and drive unit and considering how I want to run the wiring and keep things tidy.

The bullet connectors from the battery pack need swapping out for something more durable and weather-resistant: suggestions? And the 17.5Ah pack is so tight in this 18" frame that in order to insert rivnuts high enough on the downtube I've actually had to order a stubby hex-shanked 7mm bit to fit my right-angle impact adaptor, as there's not enough space for a chucked adaptor and bit to clear the top tube.

Have fitted a rock solid headtube-mounted Steco rack (rated to 15kg) and picked up a fantastic Rivet 'Pearl' saddle to replace the 140mm road job that was completely unsuited to upright riding. Also swapped the comically bad centre-stand for an Ursus Jumbo (fitted as standard to current Ute models), so at least now the bike doesn't try and fall over every time I look away. Shame the pedals catch it when deployed but I can live with that.

Still need to source hydraulic brakes (stock BB5s are useless) and have decided to go with 26" wheels with 2.4" Super Moto Xs in order to to drop the BB by 15mm, add some float and take the strain off the drive. Running 700x45c made the bike far too leggy and caused interesting handling on heavily loaded test rides.

Struggling to find decent 48h 6-bolt rear hubs in 135mm with a strong freehub/engagement system though.

Recommendations for the following gratefully received!
  • Weather-resistant and durable battery-drive connectors
  • Durable 48h 135mm QR rear hubs with a strong freehub/engagement
  • General tips on improving weather resistance for what is going to be an all-weather daily runabout

Will post more pics when I get the drive fitted and running.

DEB06A5F-21CE-484B-B1A9-00C15C999FEB.jpeg6F15BFD5-AA1F-4F5C-B6B6-7734113FC595.jpeg8F42871F-0474-46A7-9541-75D822EFA34A.jpegB6FFE160-0F6B-44B1-BFFE-40FDB9B124ED.jpeg
 
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Pedant peddler

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Not managed to get stuck into this build yet but have spent a few minutes here and there offering up the battery pack and drive unit and considering how I want to run the wiring and keep things tidy.

The cheap and nasty bullet connectors from the battery pack need swapping out for something better - X60s perhaps, or something else? And the 17.5Ah pack is such a tight fit in this 18" frame that in order to insert rivnuts high enough on the downtube I've actually had to order a stubby hex-shanked 7mm bit to fit my right-angle impact adaptor, as there's not enough space for a chucked adaptor and bit to clear the toptube.

Have managed to fit a rock solid headtube-mounted Steco rack (not keen on fork-mounted) and picked up a fantastic Rivet 'Pearl' saddle to replace the 140mm road job that was completely unsuited to an upright riding position. Also swapped the comically bad centre-stand for an Ursus Jumbo (now fitted as standard to current Ute models), so at least now the bike doesn't try and fall over every time I look away.

Still need to source hydraulic brakes (the stock BB5s are appallingly bad) and have decided to go with 26" wheels with 2.4" Super Moto Xs in order to to drop the BB by 15mm, add some float and take the strain off the drive. Running 700x45c had the bike far too leggy and made for interesting handling on heavily loaded test rides.

Recommendations for alternative battery connectors gratefully received!

Will post more pics when I get the drive fitted and running.

View attachment 36645
Looking forward to seeing this finished. I swapped the bullets for these XT60s...
Now awaiting the 40 Samsung 35E I've ordered from Fogstar to build two batteries (son's Oset 20 getting a Lithium upgrade).
 
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Pedant peddler

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Only 40 x35e? that will not have much range
I don't need a huge range though I have an abundance of XT60s so will make an adapter to allow use of both batteries if I need greater range (yes the 40 cells will be split between two batteries).
 

Peddlin' Pedro

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Looking forward to seeing this finished. I swapped the bullets for these XT60s...
Now awaiting the 40 Samsung 35E I've ordered from Fogstar to build two batteries (son's Oset 20 getting a Lithium upgrade).
I was looking at those but as this is going to be a genuinely all-weather daily runabout I've decided I need better weather-resistance in general. Need to to do a bit more research but would welcome further suggestions
 

RobN

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May 15, 2020
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I covered all my connections with heat shrink and even taped the end of the heat shrink for further weatherproofing.
 

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Pedant peddler

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I covered all my connections with heat shrink and even taped the end of the heat shrink for further weatherproofing.
I'm wary of such though living in Scotland I feel it's possibly better to let water escape, stopping it from getting there in the first place is damn near impossible (as my everything from this mornings ride will attest). :)
 

Peddlin' Pedro

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I'm wary of such though living in Scotland I feel it's possibly better to let water escape, stopping it from getting there in the first place is damn near impossible (as my everything from this mornings ride will attest). :)
Inclined to agree with you on that. I'm leaning towards fitting a controller housing on the back of the seat tube (plenty of space with a longtail) and running all wires up into that. Won't seal it but it should keep the worst off while still draining freely. Will also be a convenient place to tuck any excess out of the way.