Kit that works with display removed or switched off?

[UphillBattle]

36v, but the motor is wound for the highest rpm, and laced into a 700 wheel. The controller has PAS and throttle connections.

Finishing my order now and I’m just realising the value of a controller that hides underneath the battery, now this controller doesn’t seem so overpriced!

Does this still allow easy removal of the battery for locking the bike up etc?

Looks like it’s not compatible with the standard PAS and brake sensors I’ve already ordered...I guess I can always sell them on.

It seems their stuff is a little cheaper through their own site, with some help to choose the right accessories too. TopBikeKit 9 MOSFET

Do you have a control or switch for controlling the PAS level? That’s what I meant to ask before but foolishly used the word “controller” which has another meaning in this context.

 

[jarob10]

Finishing my order now and I’m just realising the value of a controller that hides underneath the battery, now this controller doesn’t seem so overpriced!

Does this still allow easy removal of the battery for locking the bike up etc?

Looks like it’s not compatible with the standard PAS and brake sensors I’ve already ordered...I guess I can always sell them on.

It seems their stuff is a little cheaper through their own site, with some help to choose the right accessories too. TopBikeKit 9 MOSFET

Do you have a control or switch for controlling the PAS level? That’s what I meant to ask before but foolishly used the word “controller” which has another meaning in this context.

Battery removal / refitment is unaffected by the controller

If you’ve a disc brake on the motor hub wheel, a brake sensor isn’t needed

Yes the controller can operate with a standard lcd3 display, which allows pas levels to be set

 

[UphillBattle]

Battery removal / refitment is unaffected by the controller

If you’ve a disc brake on the motor hub wheel, a brake sensor isn’t needed

Yes the controller can operate with a standard lcd3 display, which allows pas levels to be set

Ok so they aren’t offering the screenless LED810,890 and 900s models (I want to avoid the LCDx models of course) with the waterproof connectors but that just means I get an LED8xx/900s with that junlei connector from somewhere else. Sorted.

 

[jarob10]

Just received a pas I’d ordered as a spare to go with my battery base controller.

It worked first time, 100% plug and play

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Also, the sensor has rotational symmetry so can easily be reconfigured for left or right hand use



The next challenge is to find a magnet ring that fits your bike - the supplied mag ring with the sensor above is compatible with an octalink drive I think

 

[UphillBattle]

I run this controller displayless

I have the controller and Hailong battery pack now. Did you just chop the lead that comes with the battery pack near the four pin connection and solder the red and black of the controller in?

EDIT: moving the heatshrink revealed that the four pin connector can be desoldered so I can just attach the red and black there!

 

[jarob10]

To test display less, you can jumper the connector like so - pas should work

 

[jarob10]

To bring the throttle into play, this is how the throttle wires needs to be connected - note throttle wire colour coding varies, so be sure to test before solder & heat shrinking

 

[jarob10]

Here’s a wiring diagram Dave posted a while ago, for reference

 

[vfr400]

Just a reminder. If you touch the live battery wire (red) to any of the others except the blue one, you'll do a lot of damage. Be very careful if you're going to jump the connector.

 

[UphillBattle]

@jarob10 Thanks for those. I’m going to wire it up with the screenless adaptor first and if I don’t like it I’ll jump the connector.

 

[UphillBattle]

@jarob10 Did you use the extension cable from topbikekit that goes between the controller power out and the motor cable?

I’m finding that the extension cable doesn’t fit fully into the cable that comes from the controller. It fits fine at the other end with the arrows meeting at the line as they should. I think there’s a manufacturing defect with the cable out from the controller. DANGIT!

I would try going without the extension but it would be a couple of inches short. Even if I moved the battery/controller down by drilling new holes I don’t think it would reach.

(Upper photo is good (motor) end, lower photo is bad (controller) end)

 

[UphillBattle]

Oh yeah I have tried powering up, the display comes on but neither pas nor throttle work. I’ve taken a good look at the connectors, including plugging the extension cable into itself - I’m pretty sure the connection is too shallow on the problem connection.

 

[UphillBattle]

Better pic showing the difference when both are pushed in as far as they will go.

 

[jarob10]

I’d say thats definitely insufficient connector insertion. I can’t really help beyond checking the obvious, ie bent pins etc

 

[UphillBattle]

I’d say thats definitely insufficient connector insertion. I can’t really help beyond checking the obvious, ie bent pins etc

Yeah I’ve checked the pins out. The good one slides on in one continuous go but the bad one needs a good shove to go on at all then goes POP! and that’s it locked into that shallow position - it’s like it has the wrong female connector housing altogether.

 

[vfr400]

It must go all the way to the line. You can blow your controller if you attempt to use it not all the way.

 

[UphillBattle]

I’ve contacted TopBikeKit, we’ll see what they come up with. If I end up waiting for a new controller then I may try taking pliers or a hacksaw to the connector in the meantime.

 

[UphillBattle]

Problem solved.

By taking everything apart and trying all combinations I found out that the male end of the extension cable was too thicc. Squeezing it in a clamp and filing it down got it a bit deeper but still not far enough so I bit the bullet and redrilled my battery mount to put the battery hard against the seat post. Now the controller cable reaches with no extension required (connection doesn’t reach the line but it’s almost there, much better than the other one was) and the throttle works!

But the PAS doesn’t. The red light on the sensor flashes but nothing happens when pedals are turned. The screenless 900 display has 5 pas settings, no effect. I have the 12 pole easyfit pas.

 

[vfr400]

It's still not all the way to the line. You can blow your controller like that.

Does your throttle work?

 

[UphillBattle]

It's still not all the way to the line. You can blow your controller like that.

Does your throttle work?

Yes the throttle works - almost too well. I've put absurd amounts of force into that connection - it won't go farther.