Is there an road legal kit for an 48v 14.5ah battery?

[quackstar84]

If not bothered about legal marking could have gone with 350w Yose hub kit from Berlin for < £190.

My one @17a & 48v goes vey nicely up inclines with 700w + output. Unrestricted 28mph with 48/11t gearing though could go a bit faster with 52t gearing.

Hello Nealh. I think i'm going to go with this one. Just got to find an bike and then see which wheel size it is. I bought this one ebay; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273385772434 although the seller didn't want to go through with the sale. I was so mad... I knew it was an Tongsheng TSDZ2 which is ideal for me but such is the way of life. I'm not sure i'd be able to install an mid drive and I don't fancy going to a shop for lacing (anxiety). Looks like this one has the LCD3 screen? Thanks.

 

[quackstar84]

Oh looks like the only 48v model they have is an 26" https://www.yosepower.com/en/product/Hub-Motor-48V350W-26"-Rear-Motor-Bicycle-E-Bike-Hub-Conversion-Kit-Black-DIY-E-bike-LCD-Display-143.html

Making choosing a bike easier.

 

[Nealh]

They all have lcd3 a good choice + the 48v one has the 17a controller. Ideally you need a bike with square taper bottom bracket (bb) though you may need to swap the bb with a longer shaft to fit the pas V12L sensor, you won't know this till you get a bike. The left crank arm needs to have a 7mm gap to the face of the bb.

 

[quackstar84]

Hello Nealh. Thanks for the tip. So do I only need to remove the crank for this type of pas? No need for the bb removal tool to wedge the pas in like those metal ones? I've tried to find the thickness of the v12L but I can't? Do you know please?

 

[quackstar84]

Now I just want to find out how to mount this 48v Hailong 3 without needing to add rivnut to the frame as I don't like the idea of that. I found this thread which shows the old style of the battery case and the u-clamp idea looks good; https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=72742#p1098485

 

[quackstar84]

The only other way to mount the battery is backwards which isn't ideal as it puts so much pressure on the metal notch which goes into an plastic hole when you turn the key.

 

[Nealh]

Hello Nealh. Thanks for the tip. So do I only need to remove the crank for this type of pas? No need for the bb removal tool to wedge the pas in like those metal ones? I've tried to find the thickness of the v12L but I can't? Do you know please?

V12L visible thickness 6mm + 1mm clearance needed, 3mm splined section fits inside bb recess.

 

[minexplorer]

The only other way to mount the battery is backwards which isn't ideal as it puts so much pressure on the metal notch which goes into an plastic hole when you turn the key.

Quackstar.Rivnuts are so easy to fit and cost pence .Use M6 instead of M5 for extra strength.Its by far the best way to mount battery cases. With 3 anchor screws it will be solid. when all that bumping around causes the weight of the upside down battery to overcome that little security lock peg... .£400 straight down the drain!

 

[quackstar84]

Quackstar.Rivnuts are so easy to fit and cost pence .Use M6 instead of M5 for extra strength.Its by far the best way to mount battery cases. With 3 anchor screws it will be solid. when all that bumping around causes the weight of the upside down battery to overcome that little security lock peg... .£400 straight down the drain!

Yes my brother and step brothers are both engineers so for them I would say it would be easy. I would get the alignment incorrect or something daft. But it is the best option. Thank you Minexplorer.

 

[minexplorer]

Yes my brother and step brothers are both engineers so for them I would say it would be easy. I would get the alignment incorrect or something daft. But it is the best option. Thank you Minexplorer.

Most important bit is a propper guide hole .Hammer a hardened nail through .Then slow build up of drill size an a needle file.Buy aluminium riv nuts with a decent top hat rim u can get some pliers on.Or you will struggle to draw them up. Use a short bit of metal tube.Sit it on the riv nut .Screw in a m6 bolt with a spanner gripping the rim of the riv nut with pliers to stop it turning.The bolt with draw the riv up like a concertina.

 

[Paultr]

.....
My hub is 36v 280rpm however I also run it at 48v which increase the winding 25 - 30%, 28/29 mph has me spinning out with 48/11t gearing. A 36V hub run at 48v will be faster then a 48v hub if both winding speeds are the same.
.....

Apologies to the o/p for jumping in on his thread but when you say you are 'spinning out' does that mean you are going too fast for your legs to contribute any power as the pedals are going round so fast ?

This occurred to me a couple of weeks ago as even with my 250W motor at times it nearly does the same even when in the highest gear. In this situation is there any alternative to having to use the throttle continuously ?

 

[wheeliepete]

If you are spinning out in top gear and you are running an 11 tooth on the rear, then you could consider changing the front chain wheel to a bigger one.

 

[Nealh]

Apologies to the o/p for jumping in on his thread but when you say you are 'spinning out' does that mean you are going too fast for your legs to contribute any power as the pedals are going round so fast ?

This occurred to me a couple of weeks ago as even with my 250W motor at times it nearly does the same even when in the highest gear. In this situation is there any alternative to having to use the throttle continuously ?

The reason I'm spinning out is the gearing I could go larger on the front ring but generally I struggle on anything larger then 48t at slower speeds, so it is a compromise.
My remarks was to let potential buyers know that the motor may well and probably will go a bit faster if you have the power to surge on, esp with a 52/11t top gearing.
For my riding power level, I don't like to grind a way so prefer gearing to allow me to spin more freely. I prefer to have lower gear range I use more often rathe then high gears I use infrequently.

Down hill is no problem as gravity takes over and tend to freewheel esp when I'm at 40+ mph.

 

[quackstar84]

Apologies to the o/p for jumping in on his thread but when you say you are 'spinning out' does that mean you are going too fast for your legs to contribute any power as the pedals are going round so fast ?

This occurred to me a couple of weeks ago as even with my 250W motor at times it nearly does the same even when in the highest gear. In this situation is there any alternative to having to use the throttle continuously ?

No worries. I tend to do the same if I have a question pop up in my head =)

 

[quackstar84]

Most important bit is a propper guide hole .Hammer a hardened nail through .Then slow build up of drill size an a needle file.Buy aluminium riv nuts with a decent top hat rim u can get some pliers on.Or you will struggle to draw them up. Use a short bit of metal tube.Sit it on the riv nut .Screw in a m6 bolt with a spanner gripping the rim of the riv nut with pliers to stop it turning.The bolt with draw the riv up like a concertina.

Nice thank you very much =)