I'm thinking of brazing up a new aluminium sub chassis out of 30mm sq box section for the ply base, then simply bolt the Y frame to the underside thru the sub chassis. A job for winter.
That sounds like a fun project - are you intending to use an even bigger board? Or is it to keep your existing larger than normal board completely straight, when loaded with your heavy "The Honey Beesness" stock?I'm thinking of brazing up a new aluminium sub chassis out of 30mm sq box section for the ply base, then simply bolt the Y frame to the underside thru the sub chassis. A job for winter.
I'm thinking of making a big wooden box for the CF, but instead of bolts to secure it - thick round wooden circular wood plates/cyclinders bolted to the box underside, to fit into the existing board holes. Then straps would be sufficient to keep very heavy loads in place. It'd be a stronger solution than those nubs that CF sell, which you have to drill shallow holes into the CF board to secure. Pumpkins are bloody heavy, also big, even the large plastic boxes are not large or strong enough.I'm thinking of brazing up a new aluminium sub chassis out of 30mm sq box section for the ply base, then simply bolt the Y frame to the underside thru the sub chassis. A job for winter.
Use the existing base board I made as it is the perfect size for two of my 462mm bee boxes in tandem, the sub chassis wiil as you alluded keep the base board from flexing.That sounds like a fun project - are you intending to use an even bigger board? Or is it to keep your existing larger than normal board completely straight, when loaded with your heavy "The Honey Beesness" stock?
You manage to get 18-20mph assisted? That's great! I got about that when I briefly removed the 25kph limit. Two years after resumption of cyling, I can now pedal at 29kph/18mph on the flats after assistance ceases at 25kph. A bad workman blames his tools - the real problem is my weak legs... which are steadily growing stronger (must ask where Lance Armstrong buys his steroids lol). Once my cadence gets too frantic, I may indeed reach for my ebay bookmarks and try the 58T.With a bit of luck 18-20 mph the legal 48v 250watt is max current locked via the firmware at 12 amps
can over pedal the top speed , On the flat but get a hill and it runs out of puff with the 36t on the front it will spin faster
Locating roundalls on the box base to sit in the holes is perfect to prevent box movement, esp for pumps that could move.I'm thinking of making a big wooden box for the CF, but instead of bolts to secure it - thick round wooden circular wood plates/cyclinders bolted to the box underside, to fit into the existing board holes. Then straps would be sufficient to keep very heavy loads in place. It'd be a stronger solution than those nubs that CF sell, which you have to drill shallow holes into the CF board to secure. Pumpkins are bloody heavy, also big, even the large plastic boxes are not large or strong enough.
The box sides could then go right to the edge of the board, as they do on the Homcom.
He was one of your bee keeping fraternity wasn't he? Bill suffered quite a long illness. Cancer probability used to be 1 in 3 twenty years ago, it's now 1 in 2. I had a tumour in 2000, hoping that'll be all - but random isn't even. Randomness is clumpy. It could strike any of us at any time, and more than once.Mentioning bee's, very sad news today to learn of the passing of Bill Turnball.
Oh no, that'll upset the Bafang fanbase! Is it just the bbs01 48v controllers made by Bafang which have locked down firmware, or are third party compatible controllers more amenable to change?They have done a good job at locking the firmware on this version of the bbs01 48v
Making the box strong enough without adding too much weight is the next problem - I'm presently thinking dovetail interlocking joints at the sides, reinforced with three galvanised steel bands bolted through all round. Not dovetails exactly, they'll be square. Or I could save a lot of work and simply use the Homcom for pumpkin transportation. To match the Homcom + bike hauling capability, the box can't weigh more than 9.9kg.Locating roundalls on the box base to sit in the holes is perfect to prevent box movement, esp for pumps that could move.
The tumour type I had can return even after decades, but it's been 22 years - about 10 more and recurrence is highly unlikely... by which time risks of other tumour types will have risen considerably. It's a matter of blind chance that a random mutation results in a cancer cell which doesn't get killed by the immune system, and managing risk factors. At the moment, gene therapy is in it's infancy, but development appears to be rapid - here's the most expensive gene therapy treatment in the world @$2.8 million:BT was as he described himself a very bad beekeeper but with his wry sense of homour I expect he wasn't. He developed prostate cancer , Mike Burrows also succumbed to cancer.
I myself am in a high risk category as I lost my mum, sister and mums brother to secondary bowel cancer. I have been DNA tested and carry the faulty cancer gene in my chromosone make up, inherited from my maternal side.
Making my own plywood using 1mm layers of Balsa with crisscrossing grain, glued together with fiibreglass resin, would withstand force applied from any direction, but will get too pricey - I'll try cheap 6mm plywood first (a tad over 10kg for the box, won't sacrifice too much weight carrying capacity), or just use the steel framed Homcom to transport pumpkins. A few are absolutely enormous.Traditional timbers are heavy as is ply.wood
Lightest bespoke box will be a box made from hardwood, lightest hardwood is balsa. Use planks 3 - 5mm thick, lay up th balsa internally or externally with fibreglass resin for strength.
I might even be able to get away with plywood thinner than 6mm - the breaking strain of these steel bands is bound to be high enough, considering their usual use:Traditional timbers are heavy as is ply.wood
Lightest bespoke box will be a box made from hardwood, lightest hardwood is balsa. Use planks 3 - 5mm thick, lay up th balsa internally or externally with fibreglass resin for strength.
A big bespoke box with sides which go right to the edges of the plaform, with longish round feet which fit and secure through the four plaform holes (they could have rotating round discs on feet ends, to secure after insertion - would also reduce noise of flexing platform hitting the underside of the box, by restricting platform movement), could remove the need for a sub-frame?Use the existing base board I made as it is the perfect size for two of my 462mm bee boxes in tandem, the sub chassis wiil as you alluded keep the base board from flexing.