I am sure what a friend told me cant be right, so asking here, he said his wife's electric bike will do 71 Miles on a full charge, he said she can also pedal it too. but no way can a electric bike travel that distance on a full charge. unless he means when battery runs out she just pedals rest of way. IM also wondering if he means 71 mph I said to him top speed on a electric bike is about 15mph as its law. I think most bikes will do about 30 miles depends what type of battery, as I have a 24V lithium battery and that go about 25 miles
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- Thread starter billyboya
- Start date
I can do 60 miles on my 15Ah 36V battery, possibly more when new, so 71 miles sounds reasonable to me if it's a large capacity battery. It depends largely on the terrain (hilly here), whether there are any headwinds, her level of fitness (ie how much power she is using), your wife's weight (I'm 52kg) and any load she's carrying.
Maybe the bike is set to Kilometers and he hasn't noticed.
But very new bikes, big battery, flat road and young muscles, it could be possible....
regards
Andy
I can get about 80 miles out of my Crossfuse with Bosch alp motor on eco around the peak district.
Wow so it could be true what friend said then, as my 24v Lithium 16Ah battery will do about 25 miles i think mind you it is an old bike a phillips as in my profile picture. maybe mine will go further than 25 then. not really tested it out that far.
I am thinking of getting a better bike. which is light to carry up to my flat as Im on 1st floor. I do have a shed on ground floor, but when i need to do things to bike i have to carry it up 2 lots stairs. Im wondering if pedal assist will be ok for me. as Im not young 68 now. I need one which is higher than 24 v and light weight
Carry the battery up separately maybe?
I personally like 36 volt batteries myself, but do not get fixed on a voltage too much, higher voltage means more cells, equals to generally more weight.
Power is power and getting the balance (of power
) right, for any voltage is important. But basically the battery size/weigh can be carried separately upstairs...Just make sure that it is easily removed and replaced.
Andy (almost 74!)
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wow 80 miles do you have a picture of your bike be nice to see it and how much did it cost you. I dont ride mine that much just occasionally, also its old and noisy now. like i said its in my profile picture and is called Phillips thats with 2 Ls the name Im 68 so just need a light weight descent bike
To get an idea of range see https://www.bosch-ebike.com/en/service/range-assistant/
Specifically for Bosch driven bikes, but valid for others if you interpret motor type and battery size.
If you enter reasonable riding conditions for most you may get 30 or 35 miles. However, keeping battery the same but changing to minimal assist (*), no wind, good roads, fast tyres etc it easily goes above 100 miles.
Of course it can't be precise, but it isn't far off.
(*) eco setting, you do 2/3rd of the work, it does 1/3rd of the work.
Specifically for Bosch driven bikes, but valid for others if you interpret motor type and battery size.
If you enter reasonable riding conditions for most you may get 30 or 35 miles. However, keeping battery the same but changing to minimal assist (*), no wind, good roads, fast tyres etc it easily goes above 100 miles.
Of course it can't be precise, but it isn't far off.
(*) eco setting, you do 2/3rd of the work, it does 1/3rd of the work.
Yes I do carry the battery up to put on charge to 1st floor flat as I dont have a power point in shed below. its not a shed what I own it belongs to a housing place, but its mine as I keep bike in it. but sometimes I want to work on bike so I take it up 2 flights stairs minus the battery which i take up 1st
It is a Carrera Crossfuse from Halfords cost me about £1200 with discounts I think they are about £1900 now but there are plenty of other makes using the Bosch systems out there, I am not far behind you age wise and my cycling is around the peak district, recently I have been using the 2nd level assist (tour) and have been averaging 55 miles.
So its just like a ordinary bike really cool. so what size battery you have on that to do 80 miles. also whats this I have been using the 2nd level assist (tour) mean
is this yours as its £1,699 now
https://www.cyclerepublic.com/carrera-crossfuse-mens-hybrid-electric-bike-2020.html
I tend to cruise at about 17mph along the flat. My Woosh XF07 cuts out at 16mph (at least, I assume it does, perhaps Woosh could confirm that but it stops whirring). But so seamless is the loss of power that I don't notice it. Most of my 15 mile commute (until last week at any rate) was along a canal towpath so I was probably only draining the battery when accelerating from a stop, slowing down whilst pedalling or on occasion cycling at around 15mpg to get a breather. I expect my range would actually go down if I cycled more slowly and within the speed range that the motor is active?
71 miles is possible in the lowest assist mode, you need to ask your friend what terrain, routes and assist level is used and whether the bike is peddled without power.
When we've asked for ranges in this forum the most common consumption has been 12wh per mile. But some manage to consume only 7Wh per mile, while others with greedy motors have eaten 24 Wh per mile.
So you can see the possible range varies very widely with the bike model and rider fitness.
The largest e-bike batteries I know of are 36 v 24 Ah, so containing 864 Wh. Therefore a very fit rider using only 7 Wh per mile could cover 123 miles on one charge!
In contrast a very popular e-bike with members a few years ago ate 24 Wh per mile from its 36 v 10 Ah battery (360 Wh) so typically had a 15 mile range for the majority of members. Even a known very powerful rider could only get 22 miles from it's battery.
.
So you can see the possible range varies very widely with the bike model and rider fitness.
The largest e-bike batteries I know of are 36 v 24 Ah, so containing 864 Wh. Therefore a very fit rider using only 7 Wh per mile could cover 123 miles on one charge!
In contrast a very popular e-bike with members a few years ago ate 24 Wh per mile from its 36 v 10 Ah battery (360 Wh) so typically had a 15 mile range for the majority of members. Even a known very powerful rider could only get 22 miles from it's battery.
.
When you say battery is the 400 and 4 levels of assist what Volts is that then 400. also can you explain 4 levels of assist as Im not good at all this bike thing lol. last bike i had years ago was with Sturmey-Archer Gears lol which is only 3
A given bike has a fixed voltage, most often 36v; 24v on many older ones and 48v on a few.
Actually the voltage drops a little as the battery is used; eg from 42v down to 30v or so for a nominal 36v battery, but is basically fixed for a given bike.
Current is measured in amps, can be seen as electricity flowing out of the battery. That is likely to go up and down quite a bit as you move from flat to hills etc. A typical value might be 3 amps.
Power at any moment in time is the voltage times the current.
This is measured in watts, which is amps * volts; so you could be using 36*3 = 108w
You can get the same power by more amps fewer volts or more volts fewer amps.
More power will give more speed, and you need (lots) more power for going up hills.
That 108w might get you going at 12mph on a typical slow bike without you helping.
In full power on a hill you may use 15amps and get 540w. (*)
That might get the same bike up a 5% hill (1 in 20) at 8mph without your help.
Total energy used tells how much power you have used times how long you have used it;
so it is measured in wH (watt hours);
If you cycle at the steady power above for three hours you will use 108*3 = 324wH.
In real life you won't be using steady power, but if you add up all the little bits of power minute by minute or second by second it is the total that counts.
Energy comes from the battery, so batter capacity is the energy used in wH.
(apart from inefficiencies in the motor, 80% is typical best efficiency)
So allowing for inefficiencies a 400wH battery will drive you for about three hours at the steady rate above.
~~~
The assist levels typically change the amps that the controller will let the motor use; lower assist is lower amps, lower power, lower speed; but more time before the battery charge runs out.
Gears say how the power gets used so you want lower gears on hills and higher on the flat; but I'm not going into that as well right now. They are separate from the assist levels, but often work best together.; so on a hill you will probably want lower gears and higher assist level.
~~~
numbers above helped by
www.ebikes.ca
~~~
(*) even though a legal e-bike has a nominal power of 250w it is common for it to go up to 500w or even quite a bit more for peak power. 250w is the power it can keep up steadily without overheating or other strain.
Actually the voltage drops a little as the battery is used; eg from 42v down to 30v or so for a nominal 36v battery, but is basically fixed for a given bike.
Current is measured in amps, can be seen as electricity flowing out of the battery. That is likely to go up and down quite a bit as you move from flat to hills etc. A typical value might be 3 amps.
Power at any moment in time is the voltage times the current.
This is measured in watts, which is amps * volts; so you could be using 36*3 = 108w
You can get the same power by more amps fewer volts or more volts fewer amps.
More power will give more speed, and you need (lots) more power for going up hills.
That 108w might get you going at 12mph on a typical slow bike without you helping.
In full power on a hill you may use 15amps and get 540w. (*)
That might get the same bike up a 5% hill (1 in 20) at 8mph without your help.
Total energy used tells how much power you have used times how long you have used it;
so it is measured in wH (watt hours);
If you cycle at the steady power above for three hours you will use 108*3 = 324wH.
In real life you won't be using steady power, but if you add up all the little bits of power minute by minute or second by second it is the total that counts.
Energy comes from the battery, so batter capacity is the energy used in wH.
(apart from inefficiencies in the motor, 80% is typical best efficiency)
So allowing for inefficiencies a 400wH battery will drive you for about three hours at the steady rate above.
~~~
The assist levels typically change the amps that the controller will let the motor use; lower assist is lower amps, lower power, lower speed; but more time before the battery charge runs out.
Gears say how the power gets used so you want lower gears on hills and higher on the flat; but I'm not going into that as well right now. They are separate from the assist levels, but often work best together.; so on a hill you will probably want lower gears and higher assist level.
~~~
numbers above helped by
Motor Simulator - Tools
Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...
~~~
(*) even though a legal e-bike has a nominal power of 250w it is common for it to go up to 500w or even quite a bit more for peak power. 250w is the power it can keep up steadily without overheating or other strain.
Last edited:
Simply put 400 means 400wh or about 11ah capacity for a 36v battery.
4 levels of assist by way of the handle bar display, each level giving variable amounts of current/watts to the drive system. Eco is the low level of power through to Turbo which is the high level of power.
A given bike has a fixed voltage, most often 36v; 24v on many older ones and 48v on a few.
Actually the voltage drops a little as the battery is used; eg from 42v down to 30v or so for a nominal 36v battery, but is basically fixed for a given bike.
Current is measured in amps, can be seen as electricity flowing out of the battery. That is likely to go up and down quite a bit as you move from flat to hills etc. A typical value might be 3 amps.
Power at any moment in time is the voltage times the current.
This is measured in watts, which is amps * volts; so you could be using 36*3 = 108w
You can get the same power by more amps fewer volts or more volts fewer amps.
More power will give more speed, and you need (lots) more power for going up hills.
That 108w might get you going at 12mph on a typical slow bike without you helping.
In full power on a hill you may use 15amps and get 540w. (*)
That might get the same bike up a 5% hill (1 in 20) at 8mph without your help.
Total energy used tells how much power you have used times how long you have used it;
so it is measured in wH (watt hours);
If you cycle at the steady power above for three hours you will use 108*3 = 324wH.
In real life you won't be using steady power, but if you add up all the little bits of power minute by minute or second by second it is the total that counts.
Energy comes from the battery, so batter capacity is the energy used in wH.
(apart from inefficiencies in the motor, 80% is typical best efficiency)
So allowing for inefficiencies a 400wH battery will drive you for about three hours at the steady rate above.
~~~
The assist levels typically change the amps that the controller will let the motor use; lower assist is lower amps, lower power, lower speed; but more time before the battery charge runs out.
Gears say how the power gets used so you want lower gears on hills and higher on the flat; but I'm not going into that as well right now. They are separate from the assist levels, but often work best together.; so on a hill you will probably want lower gears and higher assist level.
~~~
numbers above helped by
Motor Simulator - Tools
Our ebike motor simulator allows you to easily simulate the different performance characteristics of different ebike setups - with a wide selection of hub motors modeled, and the ability to add custom batteries and controllers and set a wide variety of vehicle parameters you'll be able to see...
~~~
(*) even though a legal e-bike has a nominal power of 250w it is common for it to go up to 500w or even quite a bit more for peak power. 250w is the power it can keep up steadily without overheating or other strain.
Very knowable reading this, learning much better about bikes now.
thanks
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