Help! I bought a decathlon btwin ebike with no battery and learnt quickly that there is no battery in stock for about 1 year plus already

[Lonebikee]

I am stuck with the dlops 920e bike. i called the suppliers and they want to charge me the price of a new bike. It has a bafang 250watts motor standard but the controller is customised. i want to make a generic ebike that take a normal battery +-. i don't know where to start. Batteries online have positive and negative ends but I don't know how to rewire the controller. any advice is links is appreiciated

I have added photos of where the controller leads to on the bike and the battery endpoint.

 

[Nealh]

Show us the hub motor connector.
Typically to turn it into a generic system one has to replace the controller and handle bar display , £80 - £100 for a nice pairing.
If the bike uses a TS BB then that would likely need to be changed.

The battery BMS if using comms would have to be replaced with a generic BMS, cheaper option then buying a new battery.
A BMS is about a tenner to buy , but needs soldering skills and common sense to replace.

 

[thelarkbox]

As long as the motor has a standard 3 or 9 pin connector, a generic control system will be a fairly straightforward refit
KT brand controllers and displays are often recommended as an upgrade for the configurability and display options, a 15a or 17a sinewave controller should suit, but even if lighting circuits are a feature of the controller its generally advised Not to use this as lamps can often attempt to draw more power than expected/catered for, so run lights off the battery and a step down voltage dropper if needed to avoid such complications

if not a standard 9 pin connector pic #2 above looks like 10x pins?? (extra speed or temp sensor??) Its a tad more involved to determine the wiring if no documentation can be found but a screwdriver to open the wheel and a multimeter and eyes to 'test/check' and perhaps a couple of pics posted here will sort that.. and the additional wiring/soldering/connecting task of course..

 

[saneagle]

I'm pretty sure all Decathlon bikes have non-standard connectors, so you'd nee to cut the connector off at the controller end and solder the wires to any new controller.

It would probably be best to buy a new downtube battery and mount, controller, LCD, pedal sensor, speed sensor and throttle, which would cost about £250 - £300, depending on how well you want it to work.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Please can you post a picture of the motor side connector (ie what plugs into this)

 

[saneagle]

Please can you post a picture of the motor side connector (ie what plugs into this)

View attachment 61316

I,m pretty sure that's not the motor connector. The pins are too small. Follow the wire from the motor.

 

[Nealh]

That connector is for the trunk wire connection from controller to display, it is much too small wire wise for motor phase and hall .

 

[Lonebikee]

Show us the hub motor connector.
Typically to turn it into a generic system one has to replace the controller and handle bar display , £80 - £100 for a nice pairing.
If the bike uses a TS BB then that would likely need to be changed.

The battery BMS if using comms would have to be replaced with a generic BMS, cheaper option then buying a new battery.
A BMS is about a tenner to buy , but needs soldering skills and common sense to replace.

DO you have any recommendations for a battery?

 

[Lonebikee]

Please can you post a picture of the motor side connector (ie what plugs into this)

View attachment 61316

 

[Lonebikee]

I'm pretty sure all Decathlon bikes have non-standard connectors, so you'd nee to cut the connector off at the controller end and solder the wires to any new controller.

It would probably be best to buy a new downtube battery and mount, controller, LCD, pedal sensor, speed sensor and throttle, which would cost about £250 - £300, depending on how well you want it to work.

SO the bike has all of that. the issue is the controller and battery.

 

[saneagle]

That's a standard nine-pin connector, but it appears to be the wrong way round. Does that cable go to the controller or motor?

 

[Lonebikee]

As long as the motor has a standard 3 or 9 pin connector, a generic control system will be a fairly straightforward refit
KT brand controllers and displays are often recommended as an upgrade for the configurability and display options, a 15a or 17a sinewave controller should suit, but even if lighting circuits are a feature of the controller its generally advised Not to use this as lamps can often attempt to draw more power than expected/catered for, so run lights off the battery and a step down voltage dropper if needed to avoid such complications

if not a standard 9 pin connector pic #2 above looks like 10x pins?? (extra speed or temp sensor??) Its a tad more involved to determine the wiring if no documentation can be found but a screwdriver to open the wheel and a multimeter and eyes to 'test/check' and perhaps a couple of pics posted here will sort that.. and the additional wiring/soldering/connecting task of course..

this is the motor connector. What type of controller should I get and battery? or how should I cut and solder this?

 

[saneagle]

SO the bike has all of that. the issue is the controller and battery.

You haven't really explained what the problem is and what you're trying to achieve.

 

[thelarkbox]

That looks like a standard 9 pin motor connector that wont need any cutting/soldering @Lonebikee
you shouldnt need to browse more than a handful of online controller ads to find a good pic of a standard motor socket to match your plug


KT (Ketung?) brand controllers and compatible KT-lcd-xx displays are popular and the chinese supplier topbikekit while having a web site designed to sell a whole conversion kit is a trusted supplier,, the ktlcd-03 is probably the most popular/cheapest display option. ( displays and controllers NEED to be compatible to understand one another)

However I suspect there may be a connector gotcha with the sensors,( i could be wrong as i have no hands on experience with bafang contyrollers etc..) I think?? Bafang waterproof plug/sockets are a type 'higo' where as the similar waterproof connectors used by the kt controller are 'julet' type. ( very similar looking connectors but im not sure they are compatible) - also bafang brake sensors can be 2 wire reed switches while the KT controller is designed to connect to 3 pin hall sensor type brake sensors.. (reed switches will still work with a kt controller but wiring will need attention) So simple to overcome if an issue - Afaik this will not be an issue for the motor connection


@saneagle not like you to miss things The problem in the title is a compatible battery costing a proverbial arm and a leg and op want to use a standard generic battery. The battery connector with its coms wires above suggests a f/w roadblock to using a generic battery?? Probably a good idea to check tho..

 

[Nealh]

9 pin motor cable is a std connector, most Speed controller or Current controller should be compatible.
If one want's the best available controller type at a good price then a KT controller is by far the pick of the bunch under £100 , £100 also gets one a compatible KT LCD display from the range along with the controller.
If one is riding hilly terrain then think about the S09S mosfet models if one can't mainitain climbimg speed about 8 or 9 mph, S06S models can suffer heat issues if one can't climb very fast.

Battery wise down tube is best for lower CofG and bike weight distribution.
PSPower , Yose Power , Greenlance on ebay are highly recommended as well.

48v gives more power then 36v (approx. 33% more ) , hub motor rpm winding speed needs to be taken in to account to benefit from 48v.

 

[Nealh]

With the std 9 pin hub motor connector there is no wiring to be done it is plug and play.
Buy a suitable KT PAS(highly recommended) to fit the BB and it is plug and play.
Brake cut off levers aren't needed with a KT (unless one uses a thumb speed switch).
If brakes have existing cut offs then wiring to a KT is not an onurous difficult job to carry out ( a small amount of soldering required or a pair of compatible connectors).

Topbikekit.com or their store on ALiExp for the KT controller,display and PAS .

 

[harrys]

Is this the bike. STandard rack battery? Nice looking bike. Why can't you buy a generic rack battery, Or buy a rack with the battery? They're not very expensive, with all kinds on ebay,

Then the two power wires from existing rack if you must, and splice. Re-insert the new battery,

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Is this the bike. STandard rack battery? Nice looking bike. Why can't you buy a generic rack battery, Or buy a rack with the battery? They're not very expensive, with all kinds on ebay,

Then the two power wires from existing rack if you must, and splice. Re-insert the new battery,

View attachment 61353

There just appears to be more than 2 wires to the battery on the controller (end 2 ?)

 

[Nealh]

Yes the dlops bike in question has handshaking so a simple generic battery won't work , for simplicity in the future and for cherap and efficient repairs it is best to simply replace the controller ,display, PAS (cost about £100) for a nice KT set up and then add any two wire generic battery that can cost from £150 - £300 depending on the battery size etc,etc.

It is rediculous when they want over £100 for a charger , display or controller .

 

[harrys]

SO if you look inside the battery compartment, that funky connector is suppossed to slide right into any battery that goes in there? There's no other circuitry inside the cradle?

Stupid design. Increases costs. BTWIN should have just bought a $10 controller and put it i the cradle..