Hub Drive or Crank Drive?..
- Thread starter Martin@e-bikeshop
- Start date
Hi Trex,
Would you like me to start a new poll for you?..
My running costs guide may be of help to you here? - What are the running costs of owning an electric bike? | ebikeshop news
Does'nt directly compare to public transport costs but its hard to implement as prices vary across all public networks. Im sure you could put some figures together?..
Regards
Martin
thanks Martin for a clear and concise article on what to expect. I recommend all lurkers to read it.
one remark though, we're all used to throw away so much, can't keep my bike for 15 years!
Ha thanks for the feedback trex, the electric bike buyers guide on there may be worth a read too
Yes 15yrs is a long time but it was the best time span to try to explain the cost comparison. I wouldn't expect to keep a bike that long! Some of my regulars upgrade to newer models once a year!
Regards
Martin
Yeah. Me three I have both so I can't vote - it depends on what I am up to. If I am popping to the shops then I will take my hub-drive because I like the throttle on the way back with all the shopping on the handlebars - I dont have to pedal at all and that works for that journey. However - when I am going up to the Common with the pup in the basket on the front for his walk I take the Haibike crank-drive because Wimbledon hill is a b**ger otherwise.
So there you have it.
Hey Martin.
Of course. Its not that bad. It will go up the hill. The hub-driven bike I mean. Its not like it wont go up the hill. But you do have to work harder. And you do go slower.
With the Haibike I can have it in say 4th (thats front cog of 48T I have on there as you know - and back of 20ish not sure what cog size 4th is on the back) - and its a breeze - cruise up it at around 13mph - which on a pushbike is fast trust me.
Couple of weeks ago there was that Cycling race around London and the whole hill was barriered off with Police and spectators (and barrier) and I got on there because its on my regular route and I know the back way onto it and I was all of a sudden with around 20 other professional looking riders with their fancy gear on and their 8kg racing bikes working their f***g arses off to get up there and I have the dog in the basket on the front (he weighs 10kg in his own) - and I ride right around the lot of them overtake every one and people are clapping and pointing like how the f**k is that guy overtaking them all.
It was a neat experience.
Had both. Circa 200 miles hub and 1200 on crank
Hub drive cheap and inefficient on hills. Ltd top speed. 260 wh =20 miles
Crank drive gets miles per watt( on BH Panasonic) 260wh=40 miles
Cruses on flat at 20 with no power and Bristol hills at 15 mph up with assist.
Bath hills at 45 mph down...
Hub drive cheap and inefficient on hills. Ltd top speed. 260 wh =20 miles
Crank drive gets miles per watt( on BH Panasonic) 260wh=40 miles
Cruses on flat at 20 with no power and Bristol hills at 15 mph up with assist.
Bath hills at 45 mph down...
Last edited:
As someone who does not own a pedelec yet but has tested a few it seems to me that crank drive currently wins easily on performance at the expense of higher price and more complicated engineering. I think potentially the hub drive could be developed with clever motor and totally new wheel technologies, but they don't seem to be here yet.
James @ oxygen sums it up nicely here:
http://www.oxygenbicycles.com/e-bike-guide
His e-mate MTB 13AH is about current best in terms of hub drive development.
He's also got a neat solution to switch between legal and derestricted, the controller is programmed to limit both the maximum current that goes through the controller and the speed.
For lightweight and performance, your best bet is to convert a good bike with a CD kit.
http://www.oxygenbicycles.com/e-bike-guide
His e-mate MTB 13AH is about current best in terms of hub drive development.
He's also got a neat solution to switch between legal and derestricted, the controller is programmed to limit both the maximum current that goes through the controller and the speed.
For lightweight and performance, your best bet is to convert a good bike with a CD kit.
I would prefer the crank drive any day. Of all the bikes I have had the crank drive is far superior, especially with a torque sensor. These are so much less stressed. I currently rise a Kalkhoff Tasman. This one just knocks the miles off and you choose the speed and not the bike!
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
Did you try a KTM with the Panasonic hub-motor and torque sensor or any bike with a Bionx motor? Which bikes were you comparing?
Lots of bikes but you have to put your hand deeper in your pocket to get a quality crank drive!
Crank drive needs to be sophisticated design,re Bosch or Yamaha,to ensure that the power is organised so as not to put too much load into the gear system,whether that be derailleur or hub gears.
That means a good crank drive needs to be expensive.
Hub drive doesn't feed the loads into the gear system so it can be simpler and less sophisticated in its design. The Bafang motor system seems to be very reliable and can be 'tuned' to offer a wide torque spread that offers most of the torque reaction of crank drive.
If Bosch did hub drive I suspect that crank drive would not exist,the mighty Bosch marketing machine has done a wonderful job promoting crank drive,but it's not always the best choice,hub tends to be a lot cheaper.
KudosDave
That means a good crank drive needs to be expensive.
Hub drive doesn't feed the loads into the gear system so it can be simpler and less sophisticated in its design. The Bafang motor system seems to be very reliable and can be 'tuned' to offer a wide torque spread that offers most of the torque reaction of crank drive.
If Bosch did hub drive I suspect that crank drive would not exist,the mighty Bosch marketing machine has done a wonderful job promoting crank drive,but it's not always the best choice,hub tends to be a lot cheaper.
KudosDave
Now that I have some road experience with both drives (same terrain):
What is this "too much load on the gear system" of which you speak? Gears changing as smooth as silk here, I am changing my gears without powering down at all. In both cases correct gearing is a must. My hub top gear was a little short, I was spinning out at 45 km/h downhill. My crank bottom gear is a little too long, I am not seeing the hill climbing advantages I should be just yet especially above 8-9% gradients.
Price - much of a muchness in my case.
Which do I prefer? I can't say because I moved from an uncomfortable bike to a comfortable one and that will always get in the way of an objective opinion. I did 32000 hub km in a year, when I have 3200 km on the crank drive I may have an opinion.
What is this "too much load on the gear system" of which you speak? Gears changing as smooth as silk here, I am changing my gears without powering down at all. In both cases correct gearing is a must. My hub top gear was a little short, I was spinning out at 45 km/h downhill. My crank bottom gear is a little too long, I am not seeing the hill climbing advantages I should be just yet especially above 8-9% gradients.
Price - much of a muchness in my case.
Which do I prefer? I can't say because I moved from an uncomfortable bike to a comfortable one and that will always get in the way of an objective opinion. I did 32000 hub km in a year, when I have 3200 km on the crank drive I may have an opinion.
How about this idea:
Road bike with small, light 250 W hub motor
Single gear rear
Two chainwheels - one for downhill/flat and another for climbing/resting
Tiny 6 Ah battery
No extra wires, Bluetooth connected controller
Like your Gtech you are doing most of the work the motor is there for starting from the lights and climbing. Only one changing mechanism.
Road bike with small, light 250 W hub motor
Single gear rear
Two chainwheels - one for downhill/flat and another for climbing/resting
Tiny 6 Ah battery
No extra wires, Bluetooth connected controller
Like your Gtech you are doing most of the work the motor is there for starting from the lights and climbing. Only one changing mechanism.
Sound interesting!, I have my Carrera Vengeance Ultimate at work, may turn that into an ebike hybrid at some point in the future?.
Given the Gtech "small" 200 watt hour battery I have no range anxiety (should hopefully get 70 to 80 miles out of it).
2 front chainrings could be a plan!.
I've read a review on a Raleigh with STEPs and Di2 electronic rear hub shifter, would like a test ride on one to see how it goes!.
Given the Gtech "small" 200 watt hour battery I have no range anxiety (should hopefully get 70 to 80 miles out of it).
2 front chainrings could be a plan!.
I've read a review on a Raleigh with STEPs and Di2 electronic rear hub shifter, would like a test ride on one to see how it goes!.