Should have mentioned the original chain was a stainless one. I couldn't find it on the KMC web site
How long should my ebike chain last?
- Thread starter John F
- Start date
I could suggest to you the more expensive parts will last longer, but you won't truly know until you try them with your riding conditions and cleaning regime.
When I had the gearing changed on the Rose, the mechanic checked the chain for wear - he could measure hardly any with his Park Tools gauge.
This was after about 750 miles, so I reckon the dearer chain is worth having on a crank drive ebike.
Prime example of why a chain should not be covered by warranty..
For my part, wearing the chain out after 500miles isn't any real surprise, and I rightly don't consider them to be anything other than a wear and tear component.
Going out and getting the chain into the kind of state below is never going to do any of the drive train favours, although I think that most damage is caused by riding on the bridleways that become very sandy and gritty when dry.
The key to chains is to look after them and ensure that you use the right lubricants.
The chain and cassette that came fitted to the BH was probably very low quality, but I have mixed feelings towards putting an expensive chain on.
I think that now I'd rather put on two cheap chains to one expensive one, before the need to change the cassette and chainring. I also prefer to change a chain before it's worn out, and so potentially prolonging the life of the cassette and chainrings.
Chain checkers cost next to nothing to buy, and are simple enough to use.
Hard life for a chain.
But it's never neglected after riding.
For my part, wearing the chain out after 500miles isn't any real surprise, and I rightly don't consider them to be anything other than a wear and tear component.
Going out and getting the chain into the kind of state below is never going to do any of the drive train favours, although I think that most damage is caused by riding on the bridleways that become very sandy and gritty when dry.
The key to chains is to look after them and ensure that you use the right lubricants.
The chain and cassette that came fitted to the BH was probably very low quality, but I have mixed feelings towards putting an expensive chain on.
I think that now I'd rather put on two cheap chains to one expensive one, before the need to change the cassette and chainring. I also prefer to change a chain before it's worn out, and so potentially prolonging the life of the cassette and chainrings.
Chain checkers cost next to nothing to buy, and are simple enough to use.
Hard life for a chain.
But it's never neglected after riding.
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I'm not surprised Mike, sprockets below about 13 teeth always suffer high wear even on unpowered bikes. It's mainly the greatly reduced number of teeth sharing the load which causes high wear at each contact point.
"F" me, I've just one 800 km in not much over two weeks.
You saying I need to replace my chain every month or so?
How much does a chain cost?
for me when I was racing, I replaced a chain every 30 miles (I was racing DH).
however its not about miles, or about time... you replace a chain when its worn out, and you check this with a chain wear indicator. They aren't expensive, just a matter of a few quid.
Brands have to have something in their manuals to give a rough mileage to warn people to be on the look out. In practice you can get much more than that out of one, if you look after it.
I was stunned when a mate told me that when he was cycle road racing, he could cane one in 100miles.
30 miles is scary.
its more to do with how much you're prepared to risk and the amount you're relying on a chain. I had chains snap out of the start gate twice when I was racing DH. When you've traveled all the way to Canada for a race, you don't want that happening. So you start taking less and less risks, so for me, I'd replace them every couple of races. Better a new chain, than a wasted weekend.
I'd never given that a second thought until then.
I have a mate who has competed a couple of times in the Mega Avalanche race, and now that you say that, I recall watching the races on YouTube and also recall seeing the frequently snapped chains, and thinking that it must be devastating to have that happen.
I have a mate who has competed a couple of times in the Mega Avalanche race, and now that you say that, I recall watching the races on YouTube and also recall seeing the frequently snapped chains, and thinking that it must be devastating to have that happen.
"Depends on the use-intensity and care." This says it all. I bought an inexpensive road bike in 2007 and sold it in 2013. It had at least 8,000 miles on it and had the original chain, chainset, and cassette. This included weekly time trials and races. My BH City 700 is soon to hit 3,000 miles with no evident wear. Not everyone is going to maintain their kit to the degree I do but, for me, it is the secret to my success. I spray with GT85 every two weeks. About once a month I use a heavy spray of GT85 and scrub with a toothbrush. This followed by a rinse spray and final clean with a dry cloth. Then I oil each link with a quality cycle lube. Followed with a light spray of GT85 to help the heavier oil penitrate the links and rollers. Finish with wiping away any excess lube. If it has been unusually wet, I increase my frequency..
Chains do not generally stretch in use. Yes they do get longer and this is due a tiny amount of wear within each link. Cumulative lengthening.
Of course they can physically stretch if seriously loaded outside the design parameters.
If anyones interested, I have calibrated load test machine at work. Can provide figures of physical stretch for given loads.
you should insist on having a free replacement chain.
However, if the problem is only chain stretch while it's still sitting properly on the cogs then replacement may be premature unless the chain starts skipping.
I just checked my Tonaro Esprit now admittedly hub gear ,but with a drive that draws over 600w and when I first got it I had no trouble taking that over 1kw combined in bursts and I just measured zero wear over 10" @ roughly 1500 km.
I would change your lubing procedure if the chain is not factory faulty.
I'm in the look after them and they will look after you crowd.
I stopped checking my bikes after finding zero measurable wear at 6,000 km's on my trikes, I clean/lube at least every 100 km, I only ever use Prolink Gold as Green speed recommended it.
I would change your lubing procedure if the chain is not factory faulty.
I'm in the look after them and they will look after you crowd.
I stopped checking my bikes after finding zero measurable wear at 6,000 km's on my trikes, I clean/lube at least every 100 km, I only ever use Prolink Gold as Green speed recommended it.
The KMC X8-93 looks good and only £10.87 from Amazon. It states it's for 8 speed though, and mine is 7 speed. Is this an issue?
Agreed that chains are a consumable. I have generally got on well with SRAM chains but in the last few years I have changed to KMC because I was wearing out SRAM chains in about 4 months when they used to last almost 8 months (I always replace them before they wear out the cassette). My experience tells me that SRAM chains don't last like they used to.
I did once have a chain which was manufactured to a very poor standard:
Back in the 90s, I once had a completely new Sachs (this company was bought some years ago by SRAM) chain snap on me up a hill (riding my non electric mountain bike). I was spinning and not grinding out of the saddle up the hill so there was not an unreasonable amount of torque. A plate had snapped right around a pin making me fall off the bike right on the top tube (painful especially for a bloke). I rejoined it and rode home carefully. When I got home I cleaned it up really well and looked at it under a spot light. There were small cracks round many joining plates where the pins fitted in. I rung up the supplier to make a warranty claim and they agreed (initially they were reluctant until I said I would send them photographic evidence) it was a manufacturing defect and they sent me a new chain.
Not heard of anyone coming across this before with a new chain. I expect it is very rare.
I did once have a chain which was manufactured to a very poor standard:
Back in the 90s, I once had a completely new Sachs (this company was bought some years ago by SRAM) chain snap on me up a hill (riding my non electric mountain bike). I was spinning and not grinding out of the saddle up the hill so there was not an unreasonable amount of torque. A plate had snapped right around a pin making me fall off the bike right on the top tube (painful especially for a bloke). I rejoined it and rode home carefully. When I got home I cleaned it up really well and looked at it under a spot light. There were small cracks round many joining plates where the pins fitted in. I rung up the supplier to make a warranty claim and they agreed (initially they were reluctant until I said I would send them photographic evidence) it was a manufacturing defect and they sent me a new chain.
Not heard of anyone coming across this before with a new chain. I expect it is very rare.
My partners dutch bike, front hub motor driven has been used in all weathers for the last two years, thousands of miles. Oiled the chain only once since purchased.
No measurable stretch or wear. Reason? Fully enclosed chain guard. The chain is like new.
Only possible on a hub gear setups.. Is it about time we insisted on covers for all hub gear commuter, shopper type bikes?
No measurable stretch or wear. Reason? Fully enclosed chain guard. The chain is like new.
Only possible on a hub gear setups.. Is it about time we insisted on covers for all hub gear commuter, shopper type bikes?
And some other things I have noticed over the many years (15 plus) I have been mountain biking and 1 year riding my e bike...
7 and 8 speed set ups always seemed to have chains which lasted longer. This is probably because the sprockets are thicker than 9sp ones. Since 9sp came along I have always found the cassettes not lasting like the older 7sp and 8sp ones.
Use a decent chain cleaning device, good quality degreaser and decent lube. Don't buy the cheapest lube or think WD40 or GT85 is going to do the job - it WON'T.
Keep you chain CLEAN. You will need to clean and re-lube it much more often in the winter months. The ice, salt, mud and grit from the road make a nasty grinding paste which totally kills chains, sprockets and chain rings especially if you let it all build up.
Buy a chain wear checker tool like the one Park tools make. It is money well spent and very easy to use and better method than using a ruler.
Buy a good quality chain but don't spend megabuck on expensive (lightweight) ones which are anodised gold or red. They do not last any longer and are a waste of money. I recommend ones from KMC.
7 and 8 speed set ups always seemed to have chains which lasted longer. This is probably because the sprockets are thicker than 9sp ones. Since 9sp came along I have always found the cassettes not lasting like the older 7sp and 8sp ones.
Use a decent chain cleaning device, good quality degreaser and decent lube. Don't buy the cheapest lube or think WD40 or GT85 is going to do the job - it WON'T.
Keep you chain CLEAN. You will need to clean and re-lube it much more often in the winter months. The ice, salt, mud and grit from the road make a nasty grinding paste which totally kills chains, sprockets and chain rings especially if you let it all build up.
Buy a chain wear checker tool like the one Park tools make. It is money well spent and very easy to use and better method than using a ruler.
Buy a good quality chain but don't spend megabuck on expensive (lightweight) ones which are anodised gold or red. They do not last any longer and are a waste of money. I recommend ones from KMC.
Trouble is that they are unpopular in the UK due to the complication of removing a rear wheel. Some full enclosures are very poor in this respect.
But there's no doubt about the benefits. Best of all years ago were the Sunbeam totally enclosed oilbath chaincases which ran the chain through oil at the bottom of of the chainwheel. With no dirt of any kind and perfect lubrication, in those the chains and sprockets lasted indefinitely, seemingly unable to wear out.
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