Hoping to increase driver passing distance at night, I've glued front and rear reflectors to my wing mirrors.

I can't recall who on this forum mentioned that lights which highlight the width of the handlebars at night, might influence drivers to not cut in ahead so close after overtaking... but I think whoever said that might be right, so I've stuck dual sided white and red reflectors to my wing mirrors. They look very silly, but should do the job. I'll upload pics of my now quite daft looking wing mirrors after the Araldite has set - they're being held in position to set, with sellotape at the moment. The destructions on the packet states Araldite takes 2 hours to cure, but I might leave it a bit longer. They'll probably break off eventually...

Edited November 16, 20223 yr by guerney

Here isa pic taken with camera flash. The Araldite is still setting, hence sellotape - they're stuck to the back of my wing mirrors. The other reflecting sides of these dual sided reflectors are white. Who knows? They might might influence driver passing distance at night as intended.

 

Here isa pic taken with camera flash. The Araldite is still setting, hence sellotape - they're stuck to the back of my wing mirrors. The other reflecting sides of these dual sided reflectors are white. Who knows? They might might influence driver passing distance at night as intended.

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="49506]49506[/ATTACH]

Please let us know how you get on

Please let us know how you get on

 

The Araldite should have set harder by now, than the plastic it's stuck together. I believe a lot of close passing cars know full well they're passing too close, and that these won't be terribly effective unless very bright red LEDs are glued onto them, for which they are now a useful platform for red lights to be araldited to (a possibility for some future date). I could also stick on indicators.

 

Even if they don't dissuade passing cars from cutting in ahead too close, at least now I can remove the legally required front reflector from the handlebar, thus making room (hopefully enough room) for another switch if needed. Here's a pic of the front - the reflective tape on my wing mirror backs could do with renewing, as after two year's use it's looking a little tatty around the edges.

 

Edited November 16, 20223 yr by guerney

Please let us know how you get on

 

The reflectors were spare - sawn off - I was using these dual sided red/white on the rear rack, but the rod kept breaking, so I replaced the brittle weak plastic with an aluminium rod... but that prevented tidy folding of my bike for carriage on supermarket trolleys, so I replaced it all with an Oxford side lollipop, because that folds and swivels away.

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392286284567

Edited November 16, 20223 yr by guerney

I can't recall who on this forum mentioned that lights which highlight the width of the handlebars at night, might influence drivers to not cut in ahead so close after overtaking... but I think whoever said that might be right, so I've stuck dual sided white and red reflectors to my wing mirrors. They look very silly, but should do the job. I'll upload pics of my now quite daft looking wing mirrors after the Araldite has set - they're being held in position to set, with sellotape at the moment. The destructions on the packet states Araldite takes 2 hours to cure, but I might leave it a bit longer. They'll probably break off eventually...

When using Araldite (or most any glues), always clean both sides with Meths, and put rubber gloves on to work, as Araldite and the like, manage to glue human skin well, but while still soft, it can be removed from the skin with meths!

Putting objects in a slightly warm oven, 50°C or less, speeds up epoxy setting if needed.

I hope that helps.

Andy

The reflectors were spare - sawn off - I was using these dual sided red/white on the rear rack, but the rod kept breaking, so I replaced the brittle weak plastic with an aluminium rod... but that prevented tidy folding of my bike for carriage on supermarket trolleys, so I replaced it all with an Oxford side lollipop, because that folds and swivels away.

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392286284567

Looks really great.

If the both inside ends were glued to a coil spring, middle of which is securely mounted to the rack, to allow movement if hit by a car, it may prevent possible breakage...and you being "shook up"....

I would think that they need to be wider than you have at this time, and maybe a rough screw on the outer edge.....for marking paintwork clearly!!:mad:

regards

Andy

When using Araldite (or most any glues), always clean both sides with Meths, and put rubber gloves on to work, as Araldite and the like, manage to glue human skin well, but while still soft, it can be removed from the skin with meths!

Putting objects in a slightly warm oven, 50°C or less, speeds up epoxy setting if needed.

I hope that helps.

Andy

 

Thank you Andy - I really wanted a very strong bond, because my bike is often falling over onto the wing mirors, or my wing mirrors hit foliage as I'm riding along... so I roughned up both surfaces with sandpaper first, then wiped with 90% isopropyl alcohol to dissolve and remove grease before applying Araldite.

 

Here's how they look from behind the bike, the pic is taken with a phone LED flash - it should look similar to a driver. If they're looking, it seems likely they'll see it. Whether they ignore it or not, is anyone's guess.

 

Edited November 16, 20223 yr by guerney

Looks really great.

If the both inside ends were glued to a coil spring, middle of which is securely mounted to the rack, to allow movement if hit by a car, it may prevent possible breakage...and you being "shook up"....

I would think that they need to be wider than you have at this time, and maybe a rough screw on the outer edge.....for marking paintwork clearly!!:mad:

regards

Andy

 

I used those springs, but ultimately the springs weren't long enough, and the overall solution not flexible enough to prevent problems when the bike was folded. Your suggestion of using the Oxford lollipop is a good one - it sticks further out to one side than the bars anyway, and folds away for easy insertion and carriage of my folding bike on supermarket trolleys.

When using Araldite (or most any glues), always clean both sides with Meths, and put rubber gloves on to work, as Araldite and the like, manage to glue human skin well, but while still soft, it can be removed from the skin with meths!

Putting objects in a slightly warm oven, 50°C or less, speeds up epoxy setting if needed.

I hope that helps.

Andy

 

I read somewhere that Araldite softens at 70°C. They'll probably fall off in summer

Because these reflectors are angled, they should also be visible to drivers while they're passing. Yes they do a little silly lol, but it's important for cyclists to look as conspicuous as possible on the road...

 

Thank you Andy - I really wanted a very strong bond, because my bike is often falling over onto the wing mirors, or my wing mirrors hit foliage as I'm riding along... so I roughned up both surfaces with sandpaper first, then wiped with 90% isopropyl alcohol to dissolve and remove grease before applying Araldite.

 

Here's how they look from behind the bike, the pic is taken with a phone LED flash - it should look similar to a driver. If they're looking, it seems likely they'll see it. Whether they ignore it or not, is anyone's guess.

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="49509]49509[/ATTACH]

Well done.

Andy

After careful consideration, I decided that sticking orange wheel reflectors to the sides of those reflectors, would be beyond both Araldite and the bounds of good taste... or further beyond the bounds good taste... therefore I've applied reflective tape to the sides instead, in regulation orange. It looks bit yellow or white in bright light. My wing mirrors are looking quite battered. Yes I agree it all looks nuts, but road cyclists must put high-conspicuity first.

 

Edited November 16, 20223 yr by guerney

Neatly done.

Which bike or wheel size is this, and what stops it getting shaken off the trolley while wheeling it around? Much overhang to the sides? Photo if possible?

I've built and ridden a lot of bikes in the last 3 decades. Never yet come across one with wings

I've built and ridden a lot of bikes in the last 3 decades. Never yet come across one with wings

 

I blame all the Red Bull and vodka! They're these Zefal Dooback 2 end bar mirrors (the biggest end bar mirrors I could find), I imagine they'd fit most bike handlebars - they're supplied with collar inserts of different thicknesses. Mine were a very tight fit, had to use a bit of diluted washing up liquid and much force, to lubricate the collar and handlebar sufficiently for insertion. I wonder if there's some legal reason why reflectors aren't on ready made bike wing mirrors? It's weird given our need for on-road conspicuity, that many sold bikes are painted in dark colours, and their accessories black. Red reflectors on wing mirrors should be ok, because they're directed backwards, which I'll point out if the law complains.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zefal-Unisexs-Dooback-Mirror-Universal/dp/B076DD2F9P/

 

Edited November 17, 20223 yr by guerney

Neatly done.

Which bike or wheel size is this, and what stops it getting shaken off the trolley while wheeling it around? Much overhang to the sides? Photo if possible?

 

It's a 20" wheeled folding bike. Here's how it should look, and looked before conversion:

 

 

https://www.cyclemotion.co.uk/worldwheels/heliosp8.htm

 

Snapping a pic of my bike while shopping hasn't sprung to mind, and I don't have a recent photo of it folded, but it looks like this with a rear rack battery and saddlebags added (mine is much dirtier and a bit scratched, and is fitted with a Bafang BBS01B)

 

 

 

I used to fold and lift my bike into the shallower supermarket trolleys, laid flat, but that didn't leave much room for shopping. Now I remove the battery first, to make it light enough to lift into the large trolleys (stays upright and to one side). I did debate whether to cable lock the bike to the trolley, for when I'm organising my shopping into a rucksack and saddlebags in the (often dark and dodgy, where bike thieves target bikes) car parks afterwards. In future I may just order by click and collect, and quickly haul it home using my Homcom bike trailer.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/HOMCOM-Folding-Trailer-Bicycle-Storage/dp/B078W39W37/

 

Edited November 17, 20223 yr by guerney

It's a 20" wheeled folding bike. Here's how it should look, and looked before conversion:

 

 

https://www.cyclemotion.co.uk/worldwheels/heliosp8.htm

 

Snapping a pic of my bike while shopping hasn't sprung to mind, and I don't have a recent photo of it folded, but it looks like this with a rear rack battery and saddlebags added (mine is much dirtier and a bit scratched, and is fitted with a Bafang BBS01B)

 

 

 

I used to fold and lift my bike into the shallower supermarket trolleys, laid flat, but that didn't leave much room for shopping. Now I remove the battery first, to make it light enough to lift into the large trolleys (stays upright and to one side). I did debate whether to cable lock the bike to the trolley, for when I'm organising my shopping into a rucksack and saddlebags in the (often dark and dodgy, where bike thieves target bikes) car parks afterwards. In future I may just order by click and collect, and quickly haul it home using my Homcom bike trailer.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/HOMCOM-Folding-Trailer-Bicycle-Storage/dp/B078W39W37/

 

NICE!!!

Andy

[mention=18904]trevor brooker[/mention] - Aha! It was you who mentioned your handlebar LEDs. Good thinking:

 

But I have modified my bike so that I do not only have a single central light, but rather also have flashing leds at handlebar width at both edges front & back.

That way other vehicles can see I have a width & not just a moving vertical pole, which is what the eye & brain see when looking at most bikes.

I would like to thank all contributors to this subject, as it brings more safety ideas and designs to all members who can read!

Very important.

Regards

Andy

Also appreciate 'speed and convenience' tips like turning Ergon grips upward, fitting the bike in a trolley etc. My Dahon Vitesse 20" just looked too big to even try it out, doh!

Also appreciate 'speed and convenience' tips like turning Ergon grips upward, fitting the bike in a trolley etc. My Dahon Vitesse 20" just looked too big to even try it out, doh!

 

Another Dahon! I initially didn't know the handlebar was supposed to be slackened off to rotate for folding. Dahons are suprisingly rare on this forum - now that I have stronger legs, developed over two years pretending to pedal... it just so happens that I almost bought a Vitesse recently on ebay - because for some of my shorter journeys, I fancied that I fancied the novelty and lighter weight of a non-electric Dahon. In the end, the addictive zero-effort allure of my electrified Helios riding experience, dragged me away from the "Buy now" button.

 

Your 11.8kg Vitesse should be easier to lift in and out of supermarket trolleys. The security guards don't mind, because it's inside the trolley. I understand Brompton owners get zero complaints simply wheeling their tiny folded 16" wheeled bikes around supermarkets, trolleyless and unashamed. I'm suprised nobody objects citing public liability concerns, which isn't an issue if they're inside supermarket trolleys - according to security guards, they "Don't care", as long as my Dahon "Stays in the trolley".

 

https://eu.dahon.com/bikes/vitesse-d7/

 

 

Yours folds similarly, neatly with handle inside the fold.

 

These days, due to of all my handlebars' additions (three headlights, display, BBS01B control buttonset, Hornit 120db horn, end-bar mirrors, three switches (plus one for trailer lights - presently unconnected), extra wires etc.) I find it easier to fold my bike leaving the handlebar outside the fold... but when I have enough time, it'll all still fit inside, if I rotate some items on the handlebar out of the way, after I've slackened off the handlebar clasp and rotated the handlebar, for a narrower and more balanced folded profile for rolling along, or for stowing on public transport racks.

Edited November 18, 20223 yr by guerney

Photo if possible?

 

Here's a recent cockpit pic (see below) - for extra conspicuity... there's a headlight pointed backwards at my hi-viz top, because at night, I don't only want to be visible when my hi-viz top is reflecting driver's headlights - at junctions, their headlights are not pointed at my hi-viz top, rendering me more invisible than usual. They may react faster if they see a rider, rather than just bright headlights?

 

The rolls near the mirros are Dahon's excellent £2.99 waterproof self-coiling highly reflective trouser bands, which actually stay on legs.

 

 

I had put them on the handlebar for safe keeping, but decided they were more effective overall there, than on my ankles.

 

https://foldingbike.biz/epages/7665e38c-067c-4fa0-9037-afac2266f927.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/7665e38c-067c-4fa0-9037-afac2266f927/Products/DAHTROUSERBAND

 

Unfortunately, that backward facing headlight doesn't flash like the torch I was using before, but it's brighter and I don't need to charge that light (I frequently forgot, so many devices to charge!) - it's on the Bafang 6V lighting cicuit, which turns on automatically when the display detects dark conditions, or upon manual switching on/off. I keep it switched on like my other lights, when riding day or night...

 

 

...and I still might get squashed like a bug

Edited November 18, 20223 yr by guerney

Unhappy about all the light switches not being visible and easily accessible, I rearranged the cockpit a little... and because I don't trust waterproofing ratings, I've made a new rain cover for the display.