help on buying brake pads

[billyboya]

I have got new brake cables for my bike, still waiting for the pads to arrive, but the cables are way too long, I have tried on the old cables to see if i can cut some off, Used pliers, and also strong snippers, but nothing cuts them, can anyone reccomend best way, I do have cable end caps

 

[guerney]

I use this, which can probably be had for less at your local hardware store. Nice clean cuts.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293699787537

 

[billyboya]

I use this, which can probably be had for less at your local hardware store. Nice clean cuts.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293699787537

I have seen those on youtube, But also seen them cheaper too. But I would only use them now and again, not worth buying anymore. I also have these below, but they wont even cut wire at all maybe need some sharpening. But I am going to heat up the cable where I need to cut, as saw on youtube and the pliers made a clean cut, but thanks for helping

 

[Raboa]

Shimano, Park Tools or Knipex cable cutters

 

[saneagle]

I have seen those on youtube, But also seen them cheaper too. But I would only use them now and again, not worth buying anymore. I also have these below, but they wont even cut wire at all maybe need some sharpening. But I am going to heat up the cable where I need to cut, as saw on youtube and the pliers made a clean cut, but thanks for helping

Those bolt-croppers should easily go through brake cables - both inner and outer. With the force they exert, they don't need to be sharp. If they're not cutting through, it must be because the jaws are damaged. Show a close up photo of the jaws in the shut position so that we can see their condition.

 

[billyboya]

Those bolt-croppers should easily go through brake cables - both inner and outer. With the force they exert, they don't need to be sharp. If they're not cutting through, it must be because the jaws are damaged. Show a close up photo of the jaws in the shut position so that we can see their condition.

Yes saneagle you was right they need sharpening, last time i used them was to cut mattress springs. so yes they look very blunt, but i have an angle grinder and a vice plus you can undo the blades so handy to sharpen up


Now sharpened the blades so will test later

 

[Nealh]

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[billyboya]

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Can you say what the strange smilies about. Seems you have something to say, please say what’s best then

 

[thelarkbox]

An angle grinder or even a dremil with a black cutting disk can cut both cable and sleeve cleanly with ease.

a wrap of tape round cable helps, and a if you need to rescue a frayed cable end a hot burning torch can fry off wayward strands. (mapp/butate?)

if using blunt cutting tools a thin awl to reform the sleeve end and file to remove sharp burrs are useful to finish neatly.

and dont forget to cap off cut ends.

 

[billyboya]

An angle grinder or even a dremil with a black cutting disk can cut both cable and sleeve cleanly with ease.

a wrap of tape round cable helps, and a if you need to rescue a frayed cable end a hot burning torch can fry off wayward strands. (mapp/butate?)

if using blunt cutting tools a thin awl to reform the sleeve end and file to remove sharp burrs are useful to finish neatly.

and dont forget to cap off cut ends.

Yes will use a angle grinder to cut off wire thanks

 

[Nealh]

Can you say what the strange smilies about. Seems you have something to say, please say what’s best then

Already done that.
All this pfaffing and one would have fitted the HDB's for far chaeper.

 

[billyboya]

Already done that.
All this pfaffing and one would have fitted the HDB's for far chaeper.

Yes I know what you saying, but as I’ve already ordered the brake pads cables etc. I didn’t want to start changing the brake system plus also I’m not too sure which the brake cable stop light wire go. As from handle bar grips it just go to front of bike to a connector I think. So I was a bit worried where the wire was going to controller. But maybe at a later date I will fit hydraulic brakes. Btw do they come with the oil or is it just normal oil you use. Plus I saw on YouTube where you need to keep bleeding them

 

[saneagle]

Yes I know what you saying, but as I’ve already ordered the brake pads cables etc. I didn’t want to start changing the brake system plus also I’m not too sure which the brake cable stop light wire go. As from handle bar grips it just go to front of bike to a connector I think. So I was a bit worried where the wire was going to controller. But maybe at a later date I will fit hydraulic brakes. Btw do they come with the oil or is it just normal oil you use. Plus I saw on YouTube where you need to keep bleeding them

For anybody else reading and for you next time, as soon as you need to spend money on cable disc brakes, you should think about switching to hydraulic ones. They're only about £20 each, so if you're going to spend a five on a cable, the price difference drops to £15. In your case, you had to buy pads and cables, so the difference is even less.

It's quicker and easier to remove a cable brake and fit a hydraulic one than it is to fit a new cable to a cable disc brake and readjust it afterwards.

Don't forget that you have to reset the distance of the fixed pad from the disc after you've got your new pads in. Just turn the screw in the back until it touches the disc, then back it off until it doesn't touch. You'll probably have to back it off to get the new fixed pad in unless you never adjusted that screw before. You should adjust that screw every few weeks if you're riding your bike regularly.

 

[Nealh]

Hydraulic brakes are pre bled with mineral oil or DOT fluid.
Dot fluid is old hat and only some brands use it now, the mineral oil used is expensive if you buy the the shimano or other branded oils . One can though use LHM auotmotive mineral oil which is much cheaper.
Mineral oil is best as it isn't hydroscopic .

 

[Nealh]

Bilyboya is buying pads , inners , outers and some calliper adjusters .
And now hasn't the proper tool to cut the outer with now , if they aren't cut correctly then the ends become squashed and inhibit proper cable actuation.

Should have asked before buying and bought the hydraulics to start with.

 

[billyboya]

For anybody else reading and for you next time, as soon as you need to spend money on cable disc brakes, you should think about switching to hydraulic ones. They're only about £20 each, so if you're going to spend a five on a cable, the price difference drops to £15. In your case, you had to buy pads and cables, so the difference is even less.

It's quicker and easier to remove a cable brake and fit a hydraulic one than it is to fit a new cable to a cable disc brake and readjust it afterwards.

Don't forget that you have to reset the distance of the fixed pad from the disc after you've got your new pads in. Just turn the screw in the back until it touches the disc, then back it off until it doesn't touch. You'll probably have to back it off to get the new fixed pad in unless you never adjusted that screw before. You should adjust that screw every few weeks if you're riding your bike regularly.

I take it you mean this screw marked as yellow in image IMG_9910, also those 2 allen nuts marked in green, they must have lock thread glue on them as very hard to undo. as If I remove those 2 nuts in green I can fit pads better then. btw i am still waiting for new pads to arrive, been since wednesday I ordered them. from london. so cant ride bike until brakes are fitted.

 

[billyboya]

Bilyboya is buying pads , inners , outers and some calliper adjusters .
And now hasn't the proper tool to cut the outer with now , if they aren't cut correctly then the ends become squashed and inhibit proper cable actuation.

Should have asked before buying and bought the hydraulics to start with.

Correction I have only bought the pads, and wire cables. plus caliper adjusters. its not the outer at all. as dont need those.

 

[AndyBike]

they have been around for at least 20 years.

28 years for Hope technology(Hope C2). Though they started with cable brakes and on that aspect were the company who first introduced the concept of bicycles using disc brake in the UK.


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Shimano i think started it off in the early 70's with a cable brake, but theres been a host in the late 90's of cable activated hydraulic systems, by companies like Rockshox, Amp research, Hayes, Mountain Cycle.

 

[Raboa]

Multiple companies contributed to the development of disc brakes for bicycles, including:

• Shimano
  In 1971, Shimano developed a disc brake for junior sports bikes that was based on the standard for sports cars.
• Hayes Bicycle Group
  In 1997, Hayes Bicycle Group introduced the first hydraulic braking system for bicycles.
  
  
• Formula
  In 1987, Formula produced the first hydraulic mountain bike disc brake.
• Sachs and Hope
  In the 1990s, Sachs and Hope produced the first brake series for mountain bikes.
  

 

[saneagle]

I take it you mean this screw marked as yellow in image IMG_9910, also those 2 allen nuts marked in green, they must have lock thread glue on them as very hard to undo. as If I remove those 2 nuts in green I can fit pads better then. btw i am still waiting for new pads to arrive, been since wednesday I ordered them. from london. so cant ride bike until brakes are fitted.

yes, the one marked in yellow is the adjuster scre. It moves the fixed pad closer to and further away from the disc. You need it as close as possible without touching.

You can remove those two screws if you can to get the pads in if you have to.

There's a bit of a knack to getting the pads in. Try inserting the fixed one first, and make sure it's fully seated in position before dropping in the other one. You can screw the adjuster back a bit to get more room.