The extra weight of a big battery is really not much compared to the total of rider plus bike. If say a 20Ah seems too much, maybe two 15 Ah might be best of both worlds?
Help choosing kit - probablly Whoosh but will consider others...
- Thread starter Bogmonster666
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having the clutch in the main gear is what the BBSes have. The up side is that the pawls that act as clutch are stronger, longer lasting and support higher torque that the needle roller inside the blue gear. The downside is the pawls are noisy (like when you spin your freehub) while the blue gear is silent. Both do the same job, not one is better than the other.
The Bafang pawl-clutch is a simple and robust engineering solution - I wonder if they make them specially?.
It looks as though Tongsheng have isolated the final drive by adding a new larger-diameter sprag-clutch bearing.
I have another question with the whoosh kit...I am guessing the downtube battery has a void where a standard lishui controller is located? Is the cradle to controller hard wired or is there a plug connecting the controller to the cradle?
I ask because I think I may actually prefer to mount the controller separately (probably in a 3d printed box on the frame next to the chainring). This would allow me to change battery at a later date more easily. Tbh, I think I would almost rather sort out my own battery from the offset, but I don't think whoosh supply the kits minus battery?
C
I ask because I think I may actually prefer to mount the controller separately (probably in a 3d printed box on the frame next to the chainring). This would allow me to change battery at a later date more easily. Tbh, I think I would almost rather sort out my own battery from the offset, but I don't think whoosh supply the kits minus battery?
C
the controller forms the base of the battery. If you need to use the battery on another woosh kit then we will supply you with a new base, without the controller.
I only sell whole kits. Andy here won't be very happy if I started to sell components.
The controller forms the base of the battery, bottom of this picture:
Are you still expecting the 48v batteries in soon. I think Andy said end of July and it is the end of July.the controller forms the base of the battery. If you need to use the battery on another woosh kit then we will supply you with a new base, without the controller.
I only sell whole kits. Andy here won't be very happy if I started to sell components.
The controller forms the base of the battery, bottom of this picture:
We had the DP downtube batteries at the beginning of July. HL batteries and rack batteries arrive this week.
Are
Asking because with a 17ah controller that's 1.4C and the first generation 29e cells would not handle this. I think the latest version are 2.9ah and rated at just under 2C max continuous discharge? That would be 11.6ah for the battery on the latest version of the 29e.
I still can't make the math work with 29e for the stated battery capacities though...
For my caving lights I always end up using Panasonic cells and I've had good success with these, although the discharge profile for caving lights is very different - generally quite low (the lights need long runtimes), with occasional very high discharge (short bursts of lighting up and looking up avens and big chambers). Tend to find the Panasonic's struggle with this and Samsung 30q or similar would work better.
What cells are in the HL. I think I had read Samsung 29e but some of the early versions are are a bit crusty now and anyway I can't make the math work. Is the 48v hl a 13s4p config? That would mean a 12ah battery is 3ah cells in parallel and I don't think the 29e comes in a 3ah variant?
Asking because with a 17ah controller that's 1.4C and the first generation 29e cells would not handle this. I think the latest version are 2.9ah and rated at just under 2C max continuous discharge? That would be 11.6ah for the battery on the latest version of the 29e.
I still can't make the math work with 29e for the stated battery capacities though...
For my caving lights I always end up using Panasonic cells and I've had good success with these, although the discharge profile for caving lights is very different - generally quite low (the lights need long runtimes), with occasional very high discharge (short bursts of lighting up and looking up avens and big chambers). Tend to find the Panasonic's struggle with this and Samsung 30q or similar would work better.
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That's good news, I was having a bit of a downer on the 29e cells, I'm sure the Panasonic's are a much better fit...Panasonic BD NCR18650-3200mAH in 13x4S, 48V 12.8AH
I think the problem with buying an ebike (and perhaps more so with a kit) over the internet is that it is too much like buying shoes online. So hard to know if they will be a good fit until after you have taken them out the box and worn them for a couple of weeks...
the top brands (Samsung, Panasonic, Sony, LG and Lishen) have very good quality control so all the cells in your battery are properly graded for having exactly the same characteristics.
The result is a well balanced long lasting battery. I usually recommend replacing them after 5 years because the BMS may get corroded by then, but there are plenty of examples where they can last much longer than that if the bike sits in the garage when not in use.
The result is a well balanced long lasting battery. I usually recommend replacing them after 5 years because the BMS may get corroded by then, but there are plenty of examples where they can last much longer than that if the bike sits in the garage when not in use.
Humph, I see that the DWG22C kits now say September in the Whoosh shop. My understanding was that these would be available end of last month...at this rate I will get myself fit enough that I don't need a kit...
Guessing supply chain woes. Not really sure there is an alternative kit I think would be suitable so will continue with leg power.
Tbh, maybe a good thing as I have got my bike working much better (new drivechain, new brakes, shiny new mudguards, front rack) and have lost another 4 pounds of flab in the last few weeks - actually need to slow down weight loss as I am fading away rather fast. I would have put off changing the BB and crankset if I had known the kits were not turning up. I am genuinely wondering if I can justify a kit or I should put my effort into getting cycling fit? I can ponder on that over the next few months and decide later in the year...
My plan is to dig out my folder and use with bus for longer journeys, use mountain bike for travelling to caving, and rely on getting lifts for shopping - my wife does most of the shopping and she drives anyway. I have acquired a couple of spare wheels so will turn my attention to building a trailer in the short term.
Guessing supply chain woes. Not really sure there is an alternative kit I think would be suitable so will continue with leg power.
Tbh, maybe a good thing as I have got my bike working much better (new drivechain, new brakes, shiny new mudguards, front rack) and have lost another 4 pounds of flab in the last few weeks - actually need to slow down weight loss as I am fading away rather fast. I would have put off changing the BB and crankset if I had known the kits were not turning up. I am genuinely wondering if I can justify a kit or I should put my effort into getting cycling fit? I can ponder on that over the next few months and decide later in the year...
My plan is to dig out my folder and use with bus for longer journeys, use mountain bike for travelling to caving, and rely on getting lifts for shopping - my wife does most of the shopping and she drives anyway. I have acquired a couple of spare wheels so will turn my attention to building a trailer in the short term.
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yes, you are right there. The kit wheels and BBS01 kits are sitting in China waiting for to the wheels for the bikes to go in the same container. The schedule for the bikes slipped. They will leave China next week or the following week.
Very sorry.
I have looked at MXUS xf07 on the motor simulator and that clearly isn't beefy enough to get me up the hills around here. Even with moderate rider input it looks like it will bog down on 10 to 15% hills. The rear version appears to have a bit more torque but not enough to make a big difference I would think. I can't find much info on the SWX02. It looks a better option than the MXUS but I would think not as suitable as the DWG22C as it looks like lower torque and it is freewheel and I have just replaced my cassette... I don't want a front hub.
The only other option I would have considered was the TSDZ2 but not convinced that would be right either.
So I will need to be patient...which is not my best quality...
The only other option I would have considered was the TSDZ2 but not convinced that would be right either.
So I will need to be patient...which is not my best quality...
When I bought my 2nd DWG22C kit last year, I had to wait for a few months for batteries to arrive - they were bogged down somewhere in the post CV-19 supply chain problems. I could have sourced a battery from elsewhere, but I preferred to wait for Woosh as in my experience they are a reliable supplier and provide decent quality items.
The wait may be a nuisance, but I don't think you'll be disappointed with the performance of the DWG22C kit when you get it fitted to your bike.
The wait may be a nuisance, but I don't think you'll be disappointed with the performance of the DWG22C kit when you get it fitted to your bike.
Agreed, no point in buying the wrong thing because the right thing is not available....
I am still planning to get the DSGW02 (I think), but was curious what variant of the SWX02 whoosh sell? I see there are various configs including 36v code 9 (higher speed - lower torque - not one for hills) a 36v code 13 (more torque - lower speed), and a 48v code 16. From what I have read the 48v variant is the preferred option. It would be interesting to see the motor performance graphs of these compared with the DSGW02.
all our motors are optimised for 15mph. Both 48V geared hub motors, DWG22C and SWX02 give about the same performance (60NM) and efficiency. The main difference is the DWG22C has freehub fitting for cassettes while the SWX02 has thread for freewheels. The DWG22C needs 180mm or 203mm brake rotors, the SWX02 can use 160mm rotors.
Is there any way to install a DWG22C onto a 406 20" rear wheel with 130mm axle (8 speed)? Or some other hub drive to a front 20" 406 wheel with a 74mm axle?
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