Haibike sDuro HardSeven SL 2015 Yamaha (7 Month 1600 Miles)
- Thread starter georgehenry
- Start date
I am on a train with 15 mins of free wi fi so will have to reply another time. I am using a 42 tooth chain ring and cheap shimano cassettes (see above) with 12 tooth top gear and 14 tooth gear 8. I use eco a lot and travel mostly in gear 8 at 19 ish mph. this set up lasted 1250 miles last time. Over half my miles are in tough off road conditions. Even so wear rate seems high, though the cassettes I buy are cheap steel ones circ £15. I am 100kg and carry pretty full panniers.
When you say the cassette wears out do you mean all cogs or just the 12 tooth cog? It is in aluminium and can be bought and changed separately as you know. I only have 1000 km or so on my cassette so far and it looks brand new. I put the 11 tooth from the previous 11-28 on the 12-32 cassette so I have a brand new 12 tooth cog to swap in if the 11 starts showing signs of wear. I can sympathise with your problems with sand but touching wood and using teflon based chain lubrication seems to stop it sticking here.
I am also loving the Wippermann Connex nickel plated chain which is twice the price of the cheap KMC bulk pack chains I was using before but looking like four times the quality! I went through two of those KMC chains in 3600 km with the hub motor.
I am also loving the Wippermann Connex nickel plated chain which is twice the price of the cheap KMC bulk pack chains I was using before but looking like four times the quality! I went through two of those KMC chains in 3600 km with the hub motor.
The original KMC chain kept breaking and was replaced at a couple of hundred with another KMC and that has lasted another 3000 plus miles.
I thought at the time and still do they had a bad batch.
I thought at the time and still do they had a bad batch.
I am not sure if 1250 miles for a chain and cassette used a lot off road and then pounded 10 miles home mostly in eco in high gears 8/9, is bad or not. Obviously I would like it to last longer.
It is always the 12 tooth top gear and occasionally 14 tooth gear 8 that start to show signs of wear by jumping. None of the other lower gears with more teeth have given any issues so I am changing my cassette only because of a problem with the top gear.
If I wanted to go as quickly as I could all the time by using standard or high power settings I think I would then be in the 12 tooth top gear all the time and it would wear out probably very quickly.
IR772 said above that "The Bosch bikes have all the delayed start and gear changing software built in that you pay a premium for and the Kalkhoff's too.
The cheaper Yamaha is just grunt, so you need to learn to ease off on the gear changes on High, if you do not then it will crash away.
They are cheaper bikes but you need to learn how to ride them.
I have done over 800 miles and to me mine feels like new, but now I use Eco all the time."
How much of an effect not having the gear change software has is hard to tell but could be significant.
My approach has been to raise my gearing, change gear carefully and use mostly eco in the two highest gears. The gearing I now use gives me low enough gears to climb the hills I need to on my off road route in eco but I would now not want to increase my gearing further.
If you used the bike mostly on the road or in undemanding off road environments (In my opinion a great waste of the off road fun you can have with this bike) then you could simply over gear the bike to travel fast in a sprocket with more teeth, and the more teeth you have the more resistant to wear it will be and the longer it will last. Used in this way the power of the bike might well enable a rider to maintain up to 25 mph dependent on gradients but would suck a lot of power out of the battery.
I regularly commute a round trip of 26 miles now with 16 of those off road in hilly, sandy muddy Surrey before a 10 mile on road blast home with a chain and cassette still dirty from the off road trip to work.
Although now over 55 and over weight I have always enjoyed and played sport and in my teenage years was a county sprinter so my legs may still be stronger than someone else of my age and that perhaps higher power output combined with my weight and panniers is all bad for my chain and cassette.
Then again I might be deluding myself about having a higher power output than another overweight 55 year old!
I ride my bike to maintain fitness and travel cross country to work and not to go as fast as it will go and I have been really impressed that it can do this so well. I have now covered 5344 miles and the bike will be two years old towards the end of March 2017.
Oh PS my rear mech does not have a clutch!
It is always the 12 tooth top gear and occasionally 14 tooth gear 8 that start to show signs of wear by jumping. None of the other lower gears with more teeth have given any issues so I am changing my cassette only because of a problem with the top gear.
If I wanted to go as quickly as I could all the time by using standard or high power settings I think I would then be in the 12 tooth top gear all the time and it would wear out probably very quickly.
IR772 said above that "The Bosch bikes have all the delayed start and gear changing software built in that you pay a premium for and the Kalkhoff's too.
The cheaper Yamaha is just grunt, so you need to learn to ease off on the gear changes on High, if you do not then it will crash away.
They are cheaper bikes but you need to learn how to ride them.
I have done over 800 miles and to me mine feels like new, but now I use Eco all the time."
How much of an effect not having the gear change software has is hard to tell but could be significant.
My approach has been to raise my gearing, change gear carefully and use mostly eco in the two highest gears. The gearing I now use gives me low enough gears to climb the hills I need to on my off road route in eco but I would now not want to increase my gearing further.
If you used the bike mostly on the road or in undemanding off road environments (In my opinion a great waste of the off road fun you can have with this bike) then you could simply over gear the bike to travel fast in a sprocket with more teeth, and the more teeth you have the more resistant to wear it will be and the longer it will last. Used in this way the power of the bike might well enable a rider to maintain up to 25 mph dependent on gradients but would suck a lot of power out of the battery.
I regularly commute a round trip of 26 miles now with 16 of those off road in hilly, sandy muddy Surrey before a 10 mile on road blast home with a chain and cassette still dirty from the off road trip to work.
Although now over 55 and over weight I have always enjoyed and played sport and in my teenage years was a county sprinter so my legs may still be stronger than someone else of my age and that perhaps higher power output combined with my weight and panniers is all bad for my chain and cassette.
Then again I might be deluding myself about having a higher power output than another overweight 55 year old!
I ride my bike to maintain fitness and travel cross country to work and not to go as fast as it will go and I have been really impressed that it can do this so well. I have now covered 5344 miles and the bike will be two years old towards the end of March 2017.
Oh PS my rear mech does not have a clutch!
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Gear train (chain , cassette ) etc will wear quicker when used off road. As stated the soil conditions will add to this wear and the fine sandy soil will act as an abrasive more so then just wet mud and likewise will have a similar effect on brake pads.
Last visit to the S,Downs a fortnight ago totally ended the life of my brakes pads front and rear, the chalky wet clag wore grooves in the material down to the metal backing. Like Eddie but not as thorough as often I removed and cleaned brakes and new pads also axle re grease of bearings and removed and cleaned cassette after a good bike wash and clean.
Last visit to the S,Downs a fortnight ago totally ended the life of my brakes pads front and rear, the chalky wet clag wore grooves in the material down to the metal backing. Like Eddie but not as thorough as often I removed and cleaned brakes and new pads also axle re grease of bearings and removed and cleaned cassette after a good bike wash and clean.
Check and adjust the "B" screw on your derailleur...it sounds like you have the top jockey wheel too far away from the cassette which will result in only a small percentage of the cassette engaging with the chain
Following up. I ride in Standard and Eco mostly. my commute is pretty flat and I often am riding at a speed beyond the power assist, it is not deregulated. I did think about adjusting the B setting but don't know if it would have the affected the in gear slippage just in smoother gear changes? I have learned to change gears more sympathetically than when I first had the bike and am very sensitive to it now with the problems I am having.
Punctures - Put slime in front and back and had two more punctures today I'm beginning to think that tube is perishing! The slime does seem to have healed it up now I have taken the tube out and swished it around a bit but not sure I can trust it on the work run again. Tube in the front seems ok and have invested in two new tubes.
Might be travelling on the Kalkhoff for the rest of the week now it is back on the road, puncture resist tyres, belt drive and hub gears surely I can make through the 'gauntlet' with this bike and come out of the other side incident free. Fingers crossed.
Punctures - Put slime in front and back and had two more punctures today I'm beginning to think that tube is perishing! The slime does seem to have healed it up now I have taken the tube out and swished it around a bit but not sure I can trust it on the work run again. Tube in the front seems ok and have invested in two new tubes.
Might be travelling on the Kalkhoff for the rest of the week now it is back on the road, puncture resist tyres, belt drive and hub gears surely I can make through the 'gauntlet' with this bike and come out of the other side incident free. Fingers crossed.
when the b screw is not set right and the top wheel is to far away it rips the chain off the rear gears and does not change gear well same with the limiting screws all 3 need to be right with the right tension on the cable as well.
You can still have good gear changes, but when you put the power on the chain is only engaged on 30% or so of the cassette and will skip on the higher gears...please check it
i have to index my gears near every time i go off road esp if i get crud all over it as goes out of wack then clean and re lube it.
prob why its not wearing as fast as others with sram 11spd as cant afford a new one of them every 6 months
prob why its not wearing as fast as others with sram 11spd as cant afford a new one of them every 6 months
I'm in the same boat SW...I run a 7 speed cassette (SLX 10sp with the first 3 sprockets removed) on a Hope Single-Speed hub with a Zee short-cage and I'm always fiddling with it (mainly the "B" tension screw to stop the derailleur mashing into the spokesi have to index my gears near every time i go off road esp if i get crud all over it as goes out of wack then clean and re lube it.
prob why its not wearing as fast as others with sram 11spd as cant afford a new one of them every 6 months
)...and I replaced my X01 cassette with the sturdier GS (?) version at a fraction of the price on my AM Pro
its the xg for 90 quid i think what you mean and the xo1 i have is now £204.
tho there is now this.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sram-pg1130-11-speed-cassette/rp-prod150696
just 11-42 than my xo1 10-42
tho this is 9-44 but still expensive
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/e-thirteen-trs-plus/rp-prod145555
tho there is now this.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sram-pg1130-11-speed-cassette/rp-prod150696
just 11-42 than my xo1 10-42
tho this is 9-44 but still expensive
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/e-thirteen-trs-plus/rp-prod145555
i have 22 spd with dual front sprockets why i want a spacer to run the new sram eagle ones instead.
there for the sram eagle 12spd ebikes 14t 16t 18t and in stock here. bar the 18t and a fkn spacer i want
http://www.pro-cycling-golla.de/Kassetten_Kettenblaetter_Verschlussringe/Kettenblatt_16_Zaehne_Sram_artikel5793b1dee75b6.html
http://www.pro-cycling-golla.de/Kassetten_Kettenblaetter_Verschlussringe/Kettenblatt_16_Zaehne_Sram_artikel5793b1dee75b6.html
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