Front or rear drive conversion

[x332race]

I did consider not having cut-outs but, on reflection, it seems sensible to fit a cut-out, at least operating on the rear brake, for safety.

I was considering a rear wheel conversion but that seems to be too complicated and I don't really want to loose the current gear set-up. I am now considering changing the forks although the Cannondale has an oversized headset which may complicate matters somewhat.

 

[rustic]

I rode my Alien GSII for a while when the motor cut out cable came disconnected, it didn't feel great. Personally I'd always want them fitted, I was suprised to see cut out sensors stuck on with sticky tape when I watched a Wisper Daa hub assembly video the other day, I'm sure Wisper wouldn't sell it if it wasn't fully tested and safe, but it just looked a bit of a cheap option for anyone paying those kind of prices for a kit.

 

[kitchenman]

I think the forks on my Cannondale CX700 are Ali .. I'll check when I get home as I cant find anything online which is a bit disappointing! .. I used my CX700 with a front hub motor for just over a year. My motor was a Tongxin 180 watt 175 rpm. For me this provided enough assistance to get me comfortably to work and back. 15 miles each way with 3 significant hills! ..

yep. my forks are ali.

 

[catsnapper]

Too many stupid mishaps have occurred because of no brake cutouts, always safer to have them, possibly a bar mounted cutoff switch as well.

The oversize headset isn't really a problem, adaptor cups and headsets are available from suppliers such as CRC and SJS.

Steel forks such as these: ID Tuning Fork :: £54.00 :: PARTS & ACCESSORIES :: Forks - Road :: Spa Cycles, Harrogate - The touring cyclists specialist. which are non-suspension corrected, or the semi-corrected 413mm a-c from Surly SURLY 1x1 :: £62.99 :: Frames & Forks :: Forks - MTB Rigid :: Triton Cycles would do the job.

Both take disc and V-brakes, but there are plenty of others. I've used 24" & 26" heavy duty Onza trials forks as they are about 395-420mm a-c, give good handling and are hard to destroy.
I've used all the ones suggested with front motors, usually Bafang or Ezee, without any problems.

Longer forks are available from Surly, On-One, Kona and several other reputable manufacturers.

Alan

 

[amigafan2003]

Mine are carbon

I really don't think a Tongxin wil stress them too much.

 

[x332race]

I'm probably going to get an 8fun / Bafang 36v 250w front hub and will see if it will fit in my alloy forks already fitted....it will be tight but I think I have about 85mm clearance overall (100mm between dropouts)....if that fails I have discussed with local bike shop and they can fit Kona P2 steel rigid forks (or cheaper generic) to my bike by using special adapters (as Catsnapper said in his post)....sounds like a plan?

 

[JuicyBike]

...sounds like a good plan!

 

[catsnapper]

Kona P2's are excellent, they usually take Bafang axles without having to file them open, but they come in at least 2 axle-crown lengths. If you go that route make sure they are the correct ones to match the existing forks.

Alan

 

[aseb]

My X-Byke as standard wasn't fitted with any brake switch and it stuck on full throttle. Fortunately I was able to stop it safely- I was an a 2 lane road running alongside a rail track that can get busy because there is an industrial estate half way along it. The problem turned out to be twofold- the keyswitch which had been arcing internally and welded contacts together and a burned out resistor on the controller board. It's a brushed motor so took some stopping. I'm not sure that a brake switch would have helped under these circumstances, but my rebuilt bike has one - at least if a set of circumstances lead to a similar problem it's a chance to stop safely.

 

[Cyclezee]

Hi x332race,

I'm not sure if you have bought a conversion kit yet, if you haven't, you might want to check out the end of year sale at Cyclezee. eZee kits are particularly good value at the moment.

Regards,

 

[Mitch1960]

Cyclezee, Hi, could you quote a price for a kit (for a folding bike, Raliegh..20 inch wheels) much appreciated, cheers, M

 

[Cyclezee]

Hi Mitch,
Thank you for your enquiry.
Our current stock of 20" rear kits has sold out, but more will be arriving in January.
We do have 20" front kits in stock for £760 including free delivery within the UK and a 2 year warranty.

Regards,

 

[Mussels]

I preferred rear drive over front, better control and grip. I rarely lose grip with the front motor and I've never fallen off because of it but I've come close. For road use the differences are barely noticable and if building from a kit I'd go for front motor because:
a) It's easier to fit
b) A rear motor greatly reduces your gear options and I find that much more important than the odd wheel slip.
c) When I have a blonde moment and the motor switches on whist I'm standing and holding the bars the the front wheel will just spin a bit, with the motor in the back it can lift the bars and flip the bike upside down. A bit of front wheelspin won't have spectators wetting themselves with laughter.
A normal motor is not going to put more force through the forks than a decent brake will, the force is in the other direction but unless I had really thin racing forks I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[JuicyBike]

Mitch
This is a useful post for you. Much better pictures than at our own website!

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/10105-juicy-bike-conversion-kit-trek-7300-fx.html#post120814

 

[x332race]

Thanks for advice. I reviewed all the options and eventually chose to purchase a front wheel kit direct from BMS in China. Kit has now been fitted for a week or so and works just fine.

 

[Mitch1960]

Thank you for the replies, I wanted a standby e bike (I really do rely on my main bike as my commuter) but I was hoping to pay half that ! (ie half = £350) A second hand e bike may be a better option for me, cheers , M

 

[x332race]

Thank you for the replies, I wanted a standby e bike (I really do rely on my main bike as my commuter) but I was hoping to pay half that ! (ie half = £350) A second hand e bike may be a better option for me, cheers , M

I ordered my kit from China from "BMS Battery". Price of kit was below your budget inc import duty.

 

[Scottyf]

I got my kit direct from Bms battery delivered for 150 built in a wheel Inc postage and packaging. Exc battery.

Ebike kits in my head from china are dirt cheap.

 

[Wisper Bikes]

I rode my Alien GSII for a while when the motor cut out cable came disconnected, it didn't feel great. Personally I'd always want them fitted, I was suprised to see cut out sensors stuck on with sticky tape when I watched a Wisper Daa hub assembly video the other day, I'm sure Wisper wouldn't sell it if it wasn't fully tested and safe, but it just looked a bit of a cheap option for anyone paying those kind of prices for a kit.

Hi Rustic, the tape is only one of two options to fit the switches to the brake levers, there is also a set of levers with built in sensors included in the kit. The reason DaaTape was included in the kit is that many cyclists prefer to keep their own levers especially if they are hydraulic. The tape hase been chosen from the 3M range and is used in conjunction with a 3M double sided tape to hold the reed sensors in place. I agree it does look a bit unprofessional, however it works very well for those who do not want to change levers.

All the best

David

 

[Scottyf]

Its always going to be a problem with kits not looknig quite as polished as made to measure bikes.
If the bike is to be built with electric you can design it around that frame from scatch.

With a kit your always trying to adapt something it wasn't designed for in the first place.
Or Spend alot of money trying to get it to the same article.