My Hailong battery came with some "feet" to match the curvature of the frame. They work well although I also added a heavy duty removable zip tie just to cope with uneven surfaces. Feels rock solid.
Help! Frame battery without bottle cage screw holes
- Thread starter Warwick2
- Start date
Thanks for posting the pictures. You can install the battery on the main tube or the seat tube but I wouldn't recommend either. Best solution is to replace the rack and install a rack battery.
The B rad still needs riv nuts to hold a battery.Wolf tooth do this, I have not used any of these:
B-RAD Everywhere Base
Wolf Tooth’s B-RAD Everywhere Base is a versatile mount that allows riders to add a bottle cage where there once was none. In addition, the Everywhere Base can function as a B-RAD base, offsetting existing water bottle cage bosses by up to 22mm to make room for frame bags, piggyback shocks, or...www.wolftoothcomponents.com
Giant also do this
Giant Bottle Cage Adapter - Black
<span>The Giant bottle cage adapter allows you to fit bottle cages to bikes that are missing the mounting holes.</span>www.cjperformancecycles.com
You can still fit ot on the frame, but you need to make a support for it, which is pretty easy. Put the riv-nuts in first, then wrap the frame in cling-film. Also, wrap the battery mount in cling-film. Slap a few layers of fibreglass on the frame, then screw down the battery support to squish it right down before it sets. Add in a load more pieces underneath to make a fillet parallel with the sides of the frame. When it's all set, use a saw and/or angle grinder and/or sandpaper to make it nice and neat. You can see how I did it here on my Dahon ten years ago:
www.pedelecs.co.uk
Electric2011 Dahon Jetstream P8
I've now got a nice Shimano Hydraulic brake on the back. It was a real bonus that Dahon had the forethought to put a mounting point on the frame for it. They must have realised that their brakes are rubbish. Here's the next step. I guess you can see what's coming and why I'm doing this:
www.pedelecs.co.uk
That's a brilliant thread and conversion, and one I hadn't seen. Do you still use that Jetstream? Converting my Dahon Espresso (a £72 ebay "bargain" bought on ebay a few weeks ago, alumunium frame, front steel fork, renovations ongoing) with a rear hub motor looks like a lot of work... if anything, I may go with a simpler front hub motor build for that one. The BBS01B has ruined my fitness, so I probably will very likely leave the Espresso unelectrified, get some actual exercise, because it's a certainty I will use any electrical assistance to the legally allowable max!You can still fit ot on the frame, but you need to make a support for it, which is pretty easy. Put the riv-nuts in first, then wrap the frame in cling-film. Also, wrap the battery mount in cling-film. Slap a few layers of fibreglass on the frame, then screw down the battery support to squish it right down before it sets. Add in a load more pieces underneath to make a fillet parallel with the sides of the frame. When it's all set, use a saw and/or angle grinder and/or sandpaper to make it nice and neat. You can see how I did it here on my Dahon ten years ago:
Electric2011 Dahon Jetstream P8
I've now got a nice Shimano Hydraulic brake on the back. It was a real bonus that Dahon had the forethought to put a mounting point on the frame for it. They must have realised that their brakes are rubbish. Here's the next step. I guess you can see what's coming and why I'm doing this:
Cyclemotion - Mobility Solutions for an Integrated World
Folding bikes by Cyclemotion UK. We offer the world's largest selection of portable folding bicycle and bicycle accessories. We have folding bicycles for every riding requirement - from commuting, to traveling, to mountain biking.
www.world-wheels.co.uk
No, I converted it back and sold it about 4 years ago. It worked best at 44v (12S) with an AKM 100 cassette motor. I did a few long rides, but then it got relegated to only getting used when I had my car serviced. Now I have a van, so can use a full-size bike.
That's not a good way. It can work, but more times than not, the riv-nut starts turning with the screw, and if the rivet has already started to form, you can end up with that lot stuck in the hole and a very tricky procedure to get it out. Also, there's nothing holding the riv-nut down, so it can lift a bit and look very ugly when done. The two strips of metal with holes in is much better, as it doesn't involve turning the riv-nut, and it holds the riv-nut down while forming the rivet.
