The B rad still needs riv nuts to hold a battery.Wolf tooth do this, I have not used any of these:
B-RAD Everywhere Base
Wolf Tooth’s B-RAD Everywhere Base is a versatile mount that allows riders to add a bottle cage where there once was none. In addition, the Everywhere Base can function as a B-RAD base, offsetting existing water bottle cage bosses by up to 22mm to make room for frame bags, piggyback shocks, or...www.wolftoothcomponents.com
Giant also do this
Giant Bottle Cage Adapter - Black
<span>The Giant bottle cage adapter allows you to fit bottle cages to bikes that are missing the mounting holes.</span>www.cjperformancecycles.com
www.pedelecs.co.uk
That's a brilliant thread and conversion, and one I hadn't seen. Do you still use that Jetstream? Converting my Dahon Espresso (a £72 ebay "bargain" bought on ebay a few weeks ago, alumunium frame, front steel fork, renovations ongoing) with a rear hub motor looks like a lot of work... if anything, I may go with a simpler front hub motor build for that one. The BBS01B has ruined my fitness, so I probably will very likely leave the Espresso unelectrified, get some actual exercise, because it's a certainty I will use any electrical assistance to the legally allowable max!You can still fit ot on the frame, but you need to make a support for it, which is pretty easy. Put the riv-nuts in first, then wrap the frame in cling-film. Also, wrap the battery mount in cling-film. Slap a few layers of fibreglass on the frame, then screw down the battery support to squish it right down before it sets. Add in a load more pieces underneath to make a fillet parallel with the sides of the frame. When it's all set, use a saw and/or angle grinder and/or sandpaper to make it nice and neat. You can see how I did it here on my Dahon ten years ago:
Electric2011 Dahon Jetstream P8
I've now got a nice Shimano Hydraulic brake on the back. It was a real bonus that Dahon had the forethought to put a mounting point on the frame for it. They must have realised that their brakes are rubbish. Here's the next step. I guess you can see what's coming and why I'm doing this:
No, I converted it back and sold it about 4 years ago. It worked best at 44v (12S) with an AKM 100 cassette motor. I did a few long rides, but then it got relegated to only getting used when I had my car serviced. Now I have a van, so can use a full-size bike.
That's not a good way. It can work, but more times than not, the riv-nut starts turning with the screw, and if the rivet has already started to form, you can end up with that lot stuck in the hole and a very tricky procedure to get it out. Also, there's nothing holding the riv-nut down, so it can lift a bit and look very ugly when done. The two strips of metal with holes in is much better, as it doesn't involve turning the riv-nut, and it holds the riv-nut down while forming the rivet.
