Indeed so.It just depends if you're ever going to need to unfold them again.
A Brompton can be unfolded ready to ride in about 10 seconds.
But how long to unfold the bike in the picture ?
Indeed so.It just depends if you're ever going to need to unfold them again.
Yes, I got rid of mine too. I'm now ridden with the desire to have another.A Good ridding folding ebike that can be folded/unfolded stashed/ridden quickly and is a manageable mass when folded, is an ideal solution to joined up public transport exploitation. But is not a bargain basement option, so out of my range
Nowhere near as small folding, or as convenient to heave around via pubic transport as a Brompton, but 20" wheeled Dahons can be cheap - I bought mine from a friend for £100 years ago (ended up in the loft lol [the bike, not my friend]), and they do turn up for about that from the usual online souks. Here's a Helios like mine near Trump's golf course in Troon - it's been there months and may accept a low offer:A Good ridding folding ebike that can be folded/unfolded stashed/ridden quickly and is a manageable mass when folded, is an ideal solution to joined up public transport exploitation. But is not a bargain basement option, so out of my range
I've oft wondered about why the need for the likes of Brompton and others to unfold so fast. Maybe, I thought in case you suddenly come under fire from the Russians, and need to make a sharp getawayA Brompton can be unfolded ready to ride in about 10 seconds.
I've seen a Jetstream official style ebike. The Jetstream is a just a rebranded fujita bike which I think Dahon has or had the rights to sell in Europe and the US and possibly Japan.Nowhere near as small folding, or as convenient to heave around via pubic transport as a Brompton, but 20" wheeled Dahons can be cheap - I bought mine from a friend for £100 years ago (ended up in the loft lol [the bike, not my friend]), and they do turn up for about that from the usual online souks. Here's a Helios like mine near Trump's golf course in Troon - it's been there months and may accept a low offer:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364513076983
Here's a rear motored conversion of a Dahon Jetstream P8 by none other than @saneagle, if you're into that sort of thing:
https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/electric2011-dahon-jetstream-p8.10584/
... Jetstreams are quite rare and pricey though, and often sans effective mudguards and rear rack.
With both those Dahons, you could maximise fun by adding a mid-drive motor - can't do that with a Brompton, making them less convenient for the maximisation of fun and heavy trailer hill hauling usefulociousness, as well as speed over the flats (by that I mean over flat roads, not the tops of blocks of flats - that's no currently viable in the short or medium term, I checked), without the need for a high continuous discharge current battery, or Xiongda two speed motor.
..... as in the Brompton is not there yet?The more I ride my Brompton, the more I appreciate how hard it is to make a good folding bike.
I am well pleased with my frog battery 3 speed Brompton conversion kit I bought from Woosh.I have a Brompton which I bought some years ago when I went to buy a nut for the rear wheel of a sturmy archer equipped bike. I saw it in the bike shop window and bought it on the spot. It wasn't as much an impulse purchase as that sounds, because the bike I was fixing was a fake Brompton - a Merc, produced in China at first under some kind of license and then the parties fell out. I had originally wanted a Brompton before I bought the Merc, but when I went to the outlet near me who sold them he glibly informed me that I would have to wait about five months for him to be able to get his hands on one..... I suppose this would have been about 2004. I think they were struggling to keep up with demand at Brompton, and I saw this aluminium fake Brompton on Ebay at about half the price. I rode that fake about 4000 miles ( I had an odo on it) and then it was pretty worn out. The downtube broke at the top from hammering of the back subframe of the hinged rear end against the seat post clamp, and I resorted to drilling through the downtube and seat post and putting a bolt through because the clamp for the seat tube had broken off. This REALLY compromised the fold, but there was no other solution, given the alu construction. Can't really weld it as an amateur. I had hammered that bike mind. I went camping touring on it and rode it over speed bumps flat out on a regular basis (which was why the seat post clamp broke off).
The Brompton is a VASTLY better piece of engineering. Works better in every way than the fake, but I certainly got plenty of use out of the Chinese version.
I really like the Brompton folder, it is elegant, rides very well for a folder and it is incredibly versatile re storage, transport and functionality. I don't ride it where I am now living because of all the very steep hills in my current location, so I left it in storage in Newcastle. I tried riding it around here but I was mostly reduced to walking up hills with it. Plenty are 20%, so a three speed unless VERY much compromised by a low tooth count on the crank wheel is a no no for a man of my age and probably for most people really.
I have thought of converting it with a motor kit, but would not compromise the forks by grinding the dropouts which used to be needed when I was thinking about electrifying it. I think that there are other solutions now in front wheel motors with narrower axles. Not sure.
Thanks for the feedback Jack.I am well pleased with my frog battery 3 speed Brompton conversion kit I bought from Woosh.
Speaking of tyre widths, I'm experimenting with Continental's eContact Plus tyres. They seem to have a low rolling resistance, and good comfort, although the actual width on the wheel seems to be 5 mm or so less than the advertised width.I rode over this and worse the other night on 20" wheels and 1.75" wide tyres at 24.8kph. I've never tried a Brompton, but the wheels seem too small and the standard tyres too thin to cope with potholes; the Brompton is more of a fair tarmac ride methinks, than my 20" wheeled Dahon Helios. This would have been quite a dodgy proposition for my bike with it's original 1.5" tyres. There were worse potholes the other night, but because half of the 35 mile journey was on unfamiliar roads, I cannot be bothered to pore through the videos to screengrab them. I can install wider tyres if necessary.
View attachment 57336
View attachment 57337
p.s. To 24.8kph from a standing start uphill at the lights, was very fast with the BBS01B controller at 18A, without a throttle, and it wasn't lurchy.
Wow, up to 2.5" wide! Anything to delay potholes forcing me to become a slow moving pavement cyclist.Speaking of tyre widths, I'm experimenting with Continental's eContact Plus tyres. They seem to have a low rolling resistance, and good comfort, although the actual width on the wheel seems to be 5 mm or so less than the advertised width.
While I am running the 622 size, I see on their website that they also produce a 406 mm version (20 inch) up to 62 width:
Might be of interest to pot holing 20 inchers...
How wide is it? I've kept the original Helios: 580cm. Much wider than that would impede my bike's compact folding. I keep mulling over whether to replace it with titanium, to absorb pothole bumps a bit, but I think I've become used to bumpiness.The biggest complaint I would have about my folder, which is a Dahon clone, is the width of the handlebars. They are far to short and too straight, which does not give great control. Once I came off when I hit a pothole while indicating to turn left. It was in the dark and my pathetic front light did not reveal the pot hole in time.
With my lights, I usually see them a long time before... unless they're the sneaky deep small ones. The <2A they draw from my 19.2Ah battery is well worth it.It was in the dark and my pathetic front light did not reveal the pot hole in time.
Fitted width might be down to your rim width. My original rims, which came with 45mm tyres were only 19mm internal width, my old 26er mtb only 17mm. The Tern cargo bike is on 36mm, with 62mm tyres...Speaking of tyre widths, I'm experimenting with Continental's eContact Plus tyres. They seem to have a low rolling resistance, and good comfort, although the actual width on the wheel seems to be 5 mm or so less than the advertised width.
While I am running the 622 size, I see on their website that they also produce a 406 mm version (20 inch) up to 62 width:
Might be of interest to pot holing 20 inchers...
Finding quality rims with 19mm inner rim width is increasingly a challenge in 20", but according to Schwalbe at least, up to 2.48" wide tyres will fit. Fortunately, there are 2.15" wide Plus tyres I can switch to, until every pothole becomes gargantuan sized. At some point, I might try to build a 20" 406 wheel using wide BMX rims. 1.75" Marathon Plus are coping ok at the moment.Fitted width might be down to your rim width. My original rims, which came with 45mm tyres were only 19mm internal width, my old 26er mtb only 17mm. The Tern cargo bike is on 36mm, with 62mm tyres...
Also from Schwalbe below.Fitted width might be down to your rim width. My original rims, which came with 45mm tyres were only 19mm internal width, my old 26er mtb only 17mm. The Tern cargo bike is on 36mm, with 62mm tyres...
Why are tires often narrower than the stated tire size?
In order to ensure that tires have sufficient frame clearance, tire manufacturers generally prefer to keep production closer to the lower end of the permitted tolerance (+/- 3 mm). Carcass casing materials have become more and more sophisticated over time. That reduces the tire widening after the fitting. Furthermore, inflation pressure also plays a major role. With maximum inflation pressure the tire becomes wider than with low pressure. And a recently fitted tire still widens over time. This can make a difference of 1 to 2 mm. The tire width is measured at the widest point, i.e. outside the lug.