and be careful of sharp burrs that can be there; they can easily cut if you aren't, and dirty greasy cuts aren't nice.
Fitting yose power
- Thread starter detec52
- Start date
That looks like a 6-speed freewheel. Instead of unscrewing the complete unit you have removed the lock ring and inadvertently disassembled it - hence the ball bearings falling out. The part that is still on the wheel needs removing anticlockwise. There is a video here about removing freewheels:-
Your problem will be getting a grip on the remaining part, which might be very tight. I would suggest a Stilson wrench and a piece of tube, or if you have a vise, grip it in the jaws and turn the wheel. Either way it is easier if the tyre is still on the wheel.
I wouldn't try reusing that freewheel now, so you will need a new one - some listed here:-
Freewheels - 6 Speed | Freewheels | Transmission | SJS Cycles
Screw on fitting, NOT like a cassette
Make sure you order a freewheel kit from Yose - not a cassette kit.
The Yose kit comes with a Shimano compatible freewheel tool.
Thankyou that's good advise I see where I went wrong, I do have a good vise so will remove it as you said many thanks.That looks like a 6-speed freewheel. Instead of unscrewing the complete unit you have removed the lock ring and inadvertently disassembled it - hence the ball bearings falling out. The part that is still on the wheel needs removing anticlockwise. There is a video here about removing freewheels:-
Your problem will be getting a grip on the remaining part, which might be very tight. I would suggest a Stilson wrench and a piece of tube, or if you have a vise, grip it in the jaws and turn the wheel. Either way it is easier if the tyre is still on the wheel.
I wouldn't try reusing that freewheel now, so you will need a new one - some listed here:-
Freewheels - 6 Speed | Freewheels | Transmission | SJS Cycles
Screw on fitting, NOT like a cassettewww.sjscycles.co.uk
Make sure you order a freewheel kit from Yose - not a cassette kit.
The Yose kit comes with a Shimano compatible freewheel tool.
The base is there because it has the controller in it and I can see the controller's wires sticking out. Also you can see it poking out at the bottom end of the battery. Unlock it and remove the base from the battery!
Yes I realised that now silly me got panic on have deleted my message. Thanks
Got my yose equipment today managed to get most of it fitted but need 2 rivnuts for my battery holder, as only one lines up I think there standerd bottle size would they be about 4mm, I don't suppose halfords would have them and our local bike shop is useless, apart from that I'm well pleased with what I received no wires connected yet just need to secure the battery.
Finally finished fitting my yose 250w had to wait over Easter for parts to turn up, well I took it out for a short ride I found setting number 3 best for slight inclines but number 1 and 2 seem very slow, I'm not sure about the settings on the screen ? I just went up and down on the speed settings 4 and 5 really good, I need to study the little hand book more, apart from that I'm pleased with it, thanks for all the good information.
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I think the yose kit has a speed based controller - as you approach the "speed" for that PAS level, the assitance decreases, and above the speed for that level it won't assist you at all. There are also "power based controllers" (e.g. KT )where the PAS level equates to the assistance in Watts.
Reiterating that which Peter say's the Yose changed to a Lishui speed controller three or so years ago , so one has max speed limit in each PAS level. Though typically one will see max current in each PAS level.
It's a shame they changed because the original Yose kits ha dthe KT current control controller and that was a better choice.
The latter KT's give a nicer ride experience and contyrol ove rhow much power to use.
KT's are by default set for current control but one can if they want a less superior ride opt for speed control in the settings.
Until one tries current control then one knows no better, going back after current control is a backward step.
It's a shame they changed because the original Yose kits ha dthe KT current control controller and that was a better choice.
The latter KT's give a nicer ride experience and contyrol ove rhow much power to use.
KT's are by default set for current control but one can if they want a less superior ride opt for speed control in the settings.
Until one tries current control then one knows no better, going back after current control is a backward step.
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You shouldn't burn out the controller in a standard Yosepower kit. It might get a bit warm if going very slowly up a steep hill. The answer to that is to keep the speed up to above around 8mph - change down a gear or two and pedal harder! Slight inclines should be no problem in any setting. I used to do a 2 mile-long steep climb in PAS 5 when I still had the Lishui controllers and the motors and controllers were still cold at the top. It does tend to sap the battery though and will probably reduce its life.
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Just had a play with the settings, seems set 3 is normal and I find that about right for my roads around here, quite impressed with the set up, will take it out in the morning for a few miles as long as it's dry.
After many years of riding an Ezee powered bike , that has speed control, here's my take.
Setting one gives around 6mph - too fast for walk assist but too slow to be useful anywhere but packed pedestrian areas where one probably shouldn't be riding anyway.
Setting 2 gives 11-12mph. I find this useful on shared paths where phone zombies and garrot type long dog leads abound. Also useful on the pocked and potholed back lanes around me as anything else is too fast.
Setting 3 gives around 14mph, most useful for general cycling.
Setting 4 gives 15-16mph rarely use it.
Setting 5 gives 19mph on the stand but around 16 on the road. Never use it.
The advice to keep hill climbing speed to a minimum of 8mph is good. Increasing the setting will not affect this as full poer is already applied, you just have to work harder. Some very steep hills around here have me at 6mph. Controller gets hot on a long climb and can go into thermal cuthot on hot days. Normally a sudden drop in power precedes this, a kind of limp mode. I get off and wait.
Setting one gives around 6mph - too fast for walk assist but too slow to be useful anywhere but packed pedestrian areas where one probably shouldn't be riding anyway.
Setting 2 gives 11-12mph. I find this useful on shared paths where phone zombies and garrot type long dog leads abound. Also useful on the pocked and potholed back lanes around me as anything else is too fast.
Setting 3 gives around 14mph, most useful for general cycling.
Setting 4 gives 15-16mph rarely use it.
Setting 5 gives 19mph on the stand but around 16 on the road. Never use it.
The advice to keep hill climbing speed to a minimum of 8mph is good. Increasing the setting will not affect this as full poer is already applied, you just have to work harder. Some very steep hills around here have me at 6mph. Controller gets hot on a long climb and can go into thermal cuthot on hot days. Normally a sudden drop in power precedes this, a kind of limp mode. I get off and wait.
Yeah no problems with pas 4/5 on the flat or when no undue load in on the bike, overheating the motor/controller can occur IF the motor is under undue load such as if climbing a hill and slowing down below the above mentioned 8mph speed. Not so much an issue if you grind to 8mph just as you crest a hill, but more if your at that speed when only a fraction of the way up.
fwiw the 1 hill i wouldnt even attempt to ride up pre conversion, walking/pushing up is itself damn hard on the calf muscles.. - i had to give it a go.. - and i sailed up, I did have to drop down through almost all the gears, and as i crested the brow of the hill i had slowed to circa 8mph, But my arse was still comfortably in the saddle and i was not puffin and panting.
If you were to upgrade to a High power (e moped) controller with a 20+amp peak output Yes caution at higher pas levels when more amps could be poured into the motor would be wise, but with the stock yose power in battery-base controller the only real risk for overheating is the above mentioned overworking up a hill scenario.
enjoy your new freedom
fwiw the 1 hill i wouldnt even attempt to ride up pre conversion, walking/pushing up is itself damn hard on the calf muscles.. - i had to give it a go.. - and i sailed up, I did have to drop down through almost all the gears, and as i crested the brow of the hill i had slowed to circa 8mph, But my arse was still comfortably in the saddle and i was not puffin and panting.
If you were to upgrade to a High power (e moped) controller with a 20+amp peak output Yes caution at higher pas levels when more amps could be poured into the motor would be wise, but with the stock yose power in battery-base controller the only real risk for overheating is the above mentioned overworking up a hill scenario.
enjoy your new freedom
Thankyou for this information I did 15 miles last night and well pleased I was in eco2 most of the time but did go into 3 on inclines, now what happends if I run into a heavy rain shower? is this kit waterproof or do I need to get a plastic cover ect for battery and screen.
Put a gob of silicone grease in each connector to keep the water out. The only other thing is the LCD. They're generally OK. It should last for years, and in the worst situation, if it leaked, you could use the excuse to get a decent controller. Try to avoid parking it in the rain because the air in the warm parts shrinks when it cools down, which can suck in water into the LCD or motor.
Many thanks one last question is it OK to charge the battery on the bike or is it best to charge off. My other ebike says in the book to charge after every ride even if it's only a mile so I have been doing that and it's been OK over the last 3 years, but nothing in the paperwork on this one?
Yes but,,, plugging int a charger and forgetting or leaving overnight unattended could be risky, probably not as the charger should turn off when full voltage is achieved, but....
SO while i will charge my bike/battery on the bike in the garage i will also do so using a segment timer to limit the time the charger is powered. experience and knowing the amp output of your charger will inform you how long you need to charge the battery
afaik for the best battery performance/ life longevity dont fully charge beyond 85%? and dont fully drain a battery to its low voltage state.. Although i dont pay heed to such and give my pack full charge when voltage drops below 36 or 35v, if i catch it.
Considering battery life is given in expected charge cycles, if your charging everyday even with small incremental charging, thats got to have some detrimental impact imho?
SO while i will charge my bike/battery on the bike in the garage i will also do so using a segment timer to limit the time the charger is powered. experience and knowing the amp output of your charger will inform you how long you need to charge the battery
afaik for the best battery performance/ life longevity dont fully charge beyond 85%? and dont fully drain a battery to its low voltage state.. Although i dont pay heed to such and give my pack full charge when voltage drops below 36 or 35v, if i catch it.
Considering battery life is given in expected charge cycles, if your charging everyday even with small incremental charging, thats got to have some detrimental impact imho?
If you only ride short distances, don't bother charging it after each ride. Let the battery go down until at least one segment has gone out before charging unless you know that you need maximum range for your next ride.
It's best to charge the battery on the bike to save damage to the connector.
There is no exact rule for anything. Most things don't matter except that you should always charge to 100% when you charge it otherwise the balancing system won't work. Obviously, for safety reasons, don't leave the battery on charge for too long after the light goes green, but there's no need to panic if you forget. Don't charge the battery if it's frozen.
It's very important to make sure that the charger is switched ON before sticking in the jack, otherwise you can damage the jack socket and potentially get a fire when you try to pull the jack out. That's not so bad if you have the three-pin type charger connector.
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