Extending the Torq 1 gearing

[Tiberius]

Ok,

So there is a choice of 11-30, 11-32 or 11-34. But not all from the same shop.
I suppose I can swap cogs around between the existing and any new cassette and make up my own strange combination.

Even if the pedals aren't spinning, my head is.

Nick

 

[flecc]

They can be a real problem to strip to change sprockets Nick, the end threaded lock ring sometimes unbudgeable without doing damage.

Often the back set of sprockets is a single block, just the smallest couple loose for change, so make sure the largest sprockets end are the ones you want to save you trouble.

It might seem a headache to choose, but the odd tooth or two are less critical on an e-bike where the motor is providing such a high proportion of the power.
.

 

[coops]

On the bright side, you have lots of choice Nick.

I think determine what cadence you want to pedal & at what speeds and that will in turn determine the gears you need.

Stuart.

 

[Tiberius]

Gentlemen,

Thanks for all your help on this thread - I'm glad I asked the question, now.

After the contributions here, I decided against the 11-34 megarange cassette. Given the need to blend rider and motor power at the crucial minimum speed, I want to keep the gear ratios close at the bottom end - ie., I don't want that big jump from 1st to 2nd gear.

I've ordered one of these SHIMANO 8 SPEED CASSETTE 11-32 SHIMANO 8 SPEED CASSETTE on eBay

The Sora changer is only spec'd up to a 27T gear so I've also ordered an Alivio. I'm going to try it first with the original 52T front gear just out of interest, but I expect I will change that to a 48, which will put top gear back where it was. I suppose that will mean I need to put a few more links in the chain and then take them out again.

One option I thought of is to have two chainrings available, eg., 48 and 44, and fit the one that best suits the particular event. A chainring is easier to swap than a cassette, is it not? Will that work?

Nick

 

[JamesC]

Hi Nick

I can't remember if we covered the useful tools when changing the gearing. I found the following worked well on the Torq 1:

Removing the pedal crank arm from the taper on the bottom bracket for a quick chainwheel change - TL-FC10

HG (HyperGlide) Cassette Lockring remover/replacer Park FR-5

A chainwhip tool to hold the cassette


I have used Shimano HG40 chain and it is very useful to have extra joining pins to hand.

James

 

[Tiberius]

Thanks James,

The chain info is particularly useful - I need to get some of those. I've ordered a toolkit that claims to have all the other things. The kit cost was less than the individual tools but I've yet to find out whether they are quality items or not.

Nick

 

[flecc]

One option I thought of is to have two chainrings available, eg., 48 and 44, and fit the one that best suits the particular event. A chainring is easier to swap than a cassette, is it not? Will that work?

Nick

Swappable ones would be ok.

We previously concluded a year or so ago that twin chainrings on the Torq 1 aren't really an option. The chainline on the standard bike lines up the chainring with top gear, lower gears increasingly warping the run.

Since the lack of clearance from the battery means a twin chainwheel would mean a run from even further out, it's likely to be very restrictive in what gears could be used.

The lopsided chainrun is something I corrected on the T bike by rear frame widening.
.

 

[Tiberius]

The lopsided chainrun is something I corrected on the T bike by rear frame widening.
.

That sounds like a lot of widening. I came to the same conclusion about a double chainset after looking at the geometry, but swappable chainrings sounds practical.

Nick

 

[Tiberius]

An update: I did some research today. I got my Cycle Analyst working again and I went out and tested myself and the machine against some hills.

To make it worthwhile though, I needed to measure the hills. I had the offer of a very serious digital angle measurer, as used to align the wings on aircraft, but I thought I would start with something simpler, even if it is only accurate to a degree or two.

At this stage, this is still with the standard gearing. Most of the hills I have been going up turn out to be 4 to 6 degrees. Six degrees doesn't sound much but looks alarmingly steep when you are there - I suspect it is the maximum that street planners will generally allow.

I did find some 8 to 9 degree hills out in the countryside and I can cope with those. In bottom gear and with a half used battery I can maintain 11 to 12 mph. I'm not sure for how long, though.

Then I finally found a good one. It measured as 11 degrees one way and 9 the other, so let's take it as 10. I can just do this at 9 mph. But I really would not want to do a long one of this slope.

What this does mean though, is that when the gearing is changed, I stand a pretty good chance of doing the magic 11.3 degrees while keeping the speed up. 11.3 degrees is a slope of 1 in 5, which is going to be encountered in the TofB.

Also, I found that on a gentle slop, with my top cadence in bottom gear, I can get to 16 mph. That gives me the info I need to calculate a new front chainring size for hill climbing.

Nick

Edited to add: I had a PM asking for details of the inclinometer. These types are used in building work; do a search for "angle finder" or "angle setter" and you will find a range of them. The one I have is a bottom of the range one made by C&K; it costs about £7 from various suppliers. Its a bit crude but it did the job. I drilled the two holes for the cable ties.

 

[flecc]

That's good Nick, I found 1 in 5 doable after changing the T bike (Torq) gearing, 52 chainwheel, 34 tooth low, and can just make a short 1 in 4.5. Since I was 71 when checking those, you should be ok.

It didn't need too much widening to make the chainline ok, have a look at these two photos. One shows the rear frame angles and the other the chainline where you can just make out that the middle of the five main sprockets lines up with the chainwheel. The perfect setting, and that's with the chainring on the outside of the spider instead of the inside as standard:

.

 

[JamesC]

Hi Nick

Are you using the Cycle Analyst to meter out your power usage on the TofB ?
It's going to become really interesting to see how the different Ezee models compare over the hills and distance, particularly the modern Torq.

I am still not entirely sure what the motor spec of the latest Torq actually is. Has it remained the same as last autumn's's Torq Trekking ?

For sure, it's going to be a tough day for you on the Torq 1, and a very decent challenge as has been said elsewhere.

I look forward to hearing what gearing you settle on.

James

 

[Tiberius]

Hi Nick

Are you using the Cycle Analyst to meter out your power usage on the TofB ?
It's going to become really interesting to see how the different Ezee models compare over the hills and distance, particularly the modern Torq.

I am still not entirely sure what the motor spec of the latest Torq actually is. Has it remained the same as last autumn's's Torq Trekking ?

For sure, it's going to be a tough day for you on the Torq 1, and a very decent challenge as has been said elsewhere.

I look forward to hearing what gearing you settle on.

James

Hi James,

To answer the last question, I put the 11-32 cassette and the new derailleur on the rear a while ago and have been riding round on that. With the original 52 T front ring, that gives gearing of 45 to 132" which I quite like.

A few days before the ride I changed the front ring to 40 T, which gives 35 to 102". This is a bit low for use round where I live, so I will probably change back. I am impressed though with how the derailleur absorbs all that extra chain slack - it worked like a charm.

With the new low gears I can provide pedal power down to about 7 mph. Its still not enough, though. The Torq2s are much better at hill climbing. Below a certain gradient I was ahead of them, but as soon as it got steep they were past me.

Nick

PS. Extra info for anyone doing this. Because of the extra wheelbase on an e-bike, the chain is longer than standard. I had to buy two chains and take a section out of the second. Its not at all difficult once you have the tools.