Double pinion kit for bosch emtb

[EddiePJ]

I'm happy as I am with the single sprocket ta.

Reason being that I found that when riding in muddy conditions, that even having the OE sprocket gaurd caused build up of mud, which ultimately leads to chain slip and chain suck. Removing the gaurd sovled all issues.

For my use, running two sprockets would make the bike unrideable for about eight months of the year. There just isn't the clearance to clear mud from the side of the links and ultimately it will just build up over a very short period and cause issues.

 

[Gubbins]

Thought I might offer my reasoning for this...
I dont go places where mud build up is a problem but I do find that on steep and tricky bits where power and finesse is needed it tends to go a bit fast even at a low cadence. I go out with my son on his unpowered bike and on the big long climbes again I find it hard to match his slow climbing speed and end up waiting at he top.
I could just fit a smaller front ring but would spin out on the road and I don't ride in conditions like what eddie describes so mud isn't an issue,and the 18 in place of the original 17 shouldn't make much difference to my normal everyday riding..
I also tend to buy things because I can, even though there may be little or no actual gain....
I think sw may sympathise with this...

 

[EddiePJ]

I should really follow up my comment with an example.

As you can see, just running a sprocket guard gives potential to clog the area beside the sprocket with mud.

By not running a sprocket guard, there is no risk that mud can collect on the outer side. Obviously the inside can still collect mud, but is doesn't seem to present a problem.

And with a little dash of mud.

 

[soundwave]

do you have any old sprockets you could cut grind down in to a spacer?

think 2 should get enough space for the chain.

 

[Gubbins]

I should really follow up my comment with an example.

As you can see, just running a sprocket guard gives potential to clog the area beside the sprocket with mud.

By not running a sprocket guard, there is no risk that mud can collect on the outer side. Obviously the inside can still collect mud, but is doesn't seem to present a problem.

And with a little dash of mud.

What's that plasticy looking thing hovering over the back wheel? Is it an upside down kickstand? [emoji10]

 

[soundwave]

mud guard that is useless buy the looks of it lol

 

[EddiePJ]

do you have any old sprockets you could cut grind down in to a spacer?

think 2 should get enough space for the chain.

I'm not really sure what you are on about, but I don't need or want a second sprocket. The 15t front with 11-42 rear works just fine for me. I also don't want or need a sprocket guard.

The set up on both bikes is perfect for my use just as things are. I'm not big on making changes or adding bling parts just for the sake of it. The only change left to make, is binning the front fork remote and making it manual. It will de clutter the handle bars, and be one less cable to maintain.

Ref the mudguard, it was a very good at keeping crud from spraying under the saddle and up the back. But like all mudguards it just got in the way and created mud clearing issues. The only one on the bike these days is the front Neo Guard, which is brilliant at keeping crap from hitting the face.

 

[Gubbins]

I'm not really sure what you are on about, but I don't need or want a second sprocket. The 15t front with 11-42 rear works just fine for me. I also don't want or need a sprocket guard.

The set up on both bikes is perfect for my use just as things are. I'm not big on making changes or adding bling parts just for the sake of it. The only change left to make, is binning the front fork remote and making it manual. It will de clutter the handle bars, and be one less cable to maintain.

Ref the mudguard, it was a very good at keeping crud from spraying under the saddle and up the back. But like all mudguards it just got in the way and created mud clearing issues. The only one on the bike these days is the front Neo Guard, which is brilliant at keeping crap from hitting the face.

Now here is another hidden cost that makes expensive e bikes worth the money..
Your 11-42 sprocket and its associated bits wont have been cheap and is far superior to my 17 F 11-36 R.set up. My 17-36 lowest gear is just too high..

 

[soundwave]

I'm not really sure what you are on about, but I don't need or want a second sprocket. The 15t front with 11-42 rear works just fine for me. I also don't want or need a sprocket guard.


i want 16t and 20t and cant buy that just asking if you could bodge me some sort of spacer to try 2 normal sprockets.

i just dont have the equipment to grind down and cut steel sprockets to try it.

ps im after a remote if wanting rid of it

 

[EddiePJ]

The Macina Lycan came with an 11-36 set up, which I found to be a struggle when out with others riding conventional pedal mtb's and also eco mode.
For the most part it seemed to make a bit more sense in the Swiss Alps last year, but I changed it when I returned.
Oddly I haven't used the 42t anywhere near as much as I thought that I would, and in fact after about nine or ten months of use, it still has paint on it.

Interestingly I am in touch with a Swiss lad who has offered to take me out for a couple of rides when I'm there, and he is running a 13 tooth front with a 13-44t rear. Not that really is crazy low.

I think that I paid £67.00 for the rear cassette, but would need to check, as it might not have been even that much.

edit.. I bought my cassette locally, but it looks from this site that they can be had for about £60.00 http://www.highonbikes.com/drivetrain/sunrace-mx3-10-speed-mountain-bike-cassette-11-42.html?gclid=CIDM4_iz8c0CFSsq0wodwacDUA

The Macina Race hard tail came with a 16t front and 10-42 rear cassette already fitted. When this set up is worn out, I'm changing the whole lot from SRAM to Shimano. That is going to be an 'ouch' cost, but I just don't like the SRAM set up at all.

SW, I have a cousin that is an engineer by trade, I'll have a chat to him, to see if he could machine something up.

.

 

[Gubbins]

The Macina Lycan came with an 11-36 set up, which I found to be a struggle when out with others riding conventional pedal mtb's and also eco mode.
For the most part it seemed to make a bit more sense in the Swiss Alps last year, but I changed it when I returned.
Oddly I haven't used the 42t anywhere near as much as I thought that I would, and in fact after about nine or ten months of use, it still has paint on it.

Interestingly I am in touch with a Swiss lad who has offered to take me out for a couple of rides when I'm there, and he is running a 13 tooth front with a 13-44t rear. Not that really is crazy low.

I think that I paid £67.00 for the rear cassette, but would need to check, as it might not have been even that much.

The Macina Race hard tail came with a 16t front and 11-42 rear cassette already fitted. When this set up is worn out, I'm changing the whole lot from SRAM to Shimano. That is going to be an 'ouch' cost, but I just don't like the SRAM set up at all.

SW, I have a cousin that is an engineer by trade, I'll have a chat to him, to see if he could machine something up.

.

Did you need a different rear mech for the 11-42?

 

[soundwave]

SW, I have a cousin that is an engineer by trade, I'll have a chat to him, to see if he could machine somethingup.


thanks problem i have is i can not keep up down hill regardless of dongle i just run out of gears.

 

[EddiePJ]

Did you need a different rear mech for the 11-42?

Nope, the rear mech was fine as well.

I didn't even need a longer 'b' screw.

 

[soundwave]

its 10-42 for 11 spd sram mind and if you get the e13 one its 9-44t

 

[Gubbins]

I don't have a problem going fast it's controlling the going slow I need to master.

 

[EddiePJ]

To try to help you, what is the issue that you have with it?

Along with the level of assist, the bike will only move as fast or hard as you decide to pedal. The rest is just down to balance and control.

I guess that coming from a trials riding background, balance and slow control isn't something that is an issue for me, and I actually quite enjoy the challenge of negotiating tight and technical terrain.
Most mtb spills do seem happen at low speed though, and I certainly don't escape from that happening to me either.

Perhaps find an empty car park or playground, and practice on a level and smooth surface, before heading for the hills.

Youtube is an invaluable resource of clips advising on mtb riding skills, and there are certainly clips explaining how to ride slowly.

 

[Gubbins]

To try to help you, what is the issue that you have with it?

Along with the level of assist, the bike will only move as fast or hard as you decide to pedal. The rest is just down to balance and control.

I guess that coming from a trials riding background, balance and slow control isn't something that is an issue for me, and I actually quite enjoy the challenge of negotiating tight and technical terrain.
Most mtb spills do seem happen at low speed though, and I certainly don't escape from that happening to me either.

Perhaps find an empty car park or playground, and practice on a level and smooth surface, before heading for the hills.

Youtube is an invaluable resource of clips advising on mtb riding skills, and there are certainly clips explaining how to ride slowly.

I think you touched on it with an earlier comment. I sometimes go out with my son on his unpowered mtb and on the long uphill runs (to get to the downhills) I struggle to ride at his speed because I am pedaling at a really low cadence with not much power from the motor. In other areas that are steep and tricky I find myself going far too fast in the lowest gear.
Having tried my 15 and 18 cogs I think I should have just bought the 15, or even smaller.. I may do just that and sell the double kit on..

 

[EddiePJ]

Don't sell the kit, just fit a 15t single and save the kit for a later stage.

One thing that I tend to do when cycling with my regular mtb riding partner, is that when I see anything ahead that is slightly trickier, be that rock, roots, ruts, gradients etc, I'll either go in front or hang back by about 20 metres.
This then allows for riding the trickier section at a pace that doesn't involve having slow down to a point where you could potentially loose balance.

By either hanging back or going in front, you are then able to concentrate on what you are doing, rather than on what anyone else around you is going to do. It also gives you better vision to plan your next step or stage.

.

 

[Gubbins]

Don't sell the kit, just fit a 15t single and save the kit for a later stage.

One thing that I tend to do when cycling with my regular mtb riding partner, is that when I see anything ahead that is slightly trickier, be that rock, roots ruts, or gradients, I'll either go in front or hang back by about 20 metres.
This then allows for riding the trickier section at a pace that doesn't involve having slow down to a point where you could potentially loose balance.

By either hanging back or going in front, you are then able to concentrate on what you are doing, rather than on what anyone else around you is going to do.
It also gives you better vision to plan your next step or stage.

Good advice.. although I am usually well in front..
On one of my runs I need to navigate a very steep narrow track with a nothing bur air drop on one side and a steep bank on the other. Half way up is a 12inch stone step that needs the front wheel to climb the bank around the step and then the rear needs to power over it. I learned how to get up here by trial and error and nearly falling off on a light weight mtb with granny gears, but have never dared to try on me ebikes mainly because of the weight and slow cadence at low speed.

 

[EddiePJ]

I must admit that getting up and over steps, bunny hops etc are where the hard tail scores big time over the full suspension bike. Hopping and climbing over things is pretty effortless by comparison.