Diy solderless 18650 battery kit.

[Nealh]

As I'm getting 8mm x 0.5 or 0.7 mm copper strips supplied gratis, I am also going the continuous route on the P connections. Softer copper will be fine to use for bus bars as the cell holders form a vey tight/ stiff module in a small 5p 7s or 10s lay out.

Module for 5P 7S for the Swizzbee 50c , HE2 100a 12.5ah to be eventually paralleled with the BGA pack. Should reduce sag and give me 139a draw to play with, the 50c electrics produces some amp draw for the brushed motor drive.
110mm x 154mm.


A 5P 1S module.


Two boxes I opened and am using, one had 102 cell holders and one had 99 plus 4 empties.


5P 10S module 110mm x 220mm + 11mm for bms to sit on the end probably.


5P 10S is dead tight for the graphene box and that's with out heat shrink.

 

[Nealh]

I have got the 5P 7S pack built up and conformity is spot on each cell Parallel group = 3.6v and 25.2 v in total.
No end pic of pack in P & S as to dark tonight so will do one tomorrow.
Continuous 5P bus bars 8mm x 0.6mm.


Series bus bars.

Cells topped and tailed for correct current flow.


End caps fitted to form pack, 12.5ah 100a max current.


I used teo pieces of wood initially with an F cramp to get the cells in the caps to start with and then finally on a flat surface used a mallet and block to get an even flat pack.

 

[Nealh]

Vruzend say a European warehouse for despatch will be available soon.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Vruzend say a European warehouse for despatch will be available soon.

Lucky us we got in early before someone else takes their cut...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I didn't have to pay duty on my kits.

Bare copper bus bars might not be such a good idea because copper oxidises in air. You should dip them in molten solder or get them plated.

 

[soundwave]

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Jeez, that video is worrying. "You don't even have solder unless you want to fit a BMS later". That makes it sound like a BMS is optional. He does mention fitting a BMS at the end, but I think he should have mentioned the safety implications right at the beginning. I can imagine a load of people using this kit, not installing a BMS because no connections are provided, and not using a balance charger, then they set fire to their houses.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Jeez, that video is worrying. "You don't even have solder unless you want to fit a BMS later". That makes it sound like a BMS is optional. He does mention fitting a BMS at the end, but I think he should have mentioned the safety implications right at the beginning. I can imagine a load of people using this kit, not installing a BMS because no connections are provided, and not using a balance charger, then they set fire to their houses.

He said the BMS is going to be added in a second video but I agree d8veh that it should have at least been shown attached to the completed battery in the current video.

Any idea where I can get a balance charger that does 49.8 V (12S @ 4.15V per cell)? Something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/12S-48V-50-4V-CV-4amp-Li-ion-LiPoly-Battery-Charger-Aluminum-Casing-Electric-Bicycle-Charger/313864_32220991084.html maybe?

 

[craiggor]

That doesn't look like a balance charger. I thought balance chargers had balance leads and a screen to monitor each cell. I have made my kit in to two 5p 5s batteries. I'm using a IMAX b6 to charge them. Does an one know what is a step up from the IMAX ?

 

[anotherkiwi]

In my case the BMS will do the balancing (https://bmsbattery.com/bmspcm/833-smart-bms-10s13s-60a-with-blue-tooth-android-or-ios-app.html), I just want the charger to stop at 4.15 V per cell.

iCharger is the step up. I have a clone or re-branded version by HK the Reaktor 300W 20 Amp.

 

[awol]

Does an one know what is a step up from the IMAX ?

That Reaktor 300w mentioned by anotherkiwi is a good step up which works on the same lines as the imax.
Also the BC168 is a step up. It charges through the balance leads only and is so easy to use, you can set the cell voltages to whatever you want between the limits.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BC168-RC-Model-Super-Speed-Li-ion-Li-Polymer-Li-Fe-Hobby-Balance-Charger-BC016-/252166105413?hash=item3ab6456945:g:6isAAOSwDNdVyZbt

 

[Nealh]

The BC168 is limited as its only does up to 6s, ideal for lipo without bms.
For 18650's or other cylinder cells you need a specific voltage output charger unless you run smaller 5s or 6s packs in parallel which you later charge separately.
For adjustable voltage you probably have to look at Meanwell PSU's though expect you already may have one of some sort. HLP80-H series are not full enclosed the H48 has 43-53V range which is adjustable and max 1.7a output @81w, not a fast charger but an over nighter job.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Any idea where I can get a balance charger that does 49.8 V (12S @ 4.15V per cell)? Something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/12S-48V-50-4V-CV-4amp-Li-ion-LiPoly-Battery-Charger-Aluminum-Casing-Electric-Bicycle-Charger/313864_32220991084.html maybe?

That's just a normal charger, not a balance charger. Later, you said you didn't need a balance charger because you have a BMS, in which case that charger should be OK. Nearly all the alloy case ones are adjustable, so you can set them to the voltage you need. There's a small blue brick shaped pot in the corner that sets the voltage. Just turn the screw with a small screwdriver.

 

[Nealh]

First battery is all but finished now, only have shrink sleeve to finish which can now be done as all the P groups have charged and read the same.

Sense wires 2, 4 & 6 soldered in place.
The copper is 99.9% oxygen free and I have coated both sides of the buss bars with non conductive ACF Block grease, if copper is good enough for Jimmy it should be good enough for us to use.


Sense wires 1, 3 , 5 & 7 soldered in place.
The good thing about the bolt on buss bars is that all soldering heat can be applied with any bars off, so the cells receive no heat what so ever form the soldering.
On the right the two positive discharge connections are visible.


7s bms in place, hot glued on a foam pad.


Heat shrink sleeve (unshrunk).


Charge and discharge connections, 5.5 x 2.1 dc jack (pair) and xt60 respectively, these will sit on top of the heat shrink and will be held by hot glue or Kapton tape. The battery will eventually be packed with foam in a spray painted clip lock box fixed to the Swizz bee rear rack.


Next job is to make the 10s 5p battery using the very well priced 10a PF cells.

 

[Nealh]

Lucky us we got in early before someone else takes their cut...

The cut is $8 extra in the US warehouse, though no delivery from India to pay. Internal postage would still apply, I would assume total price would be similar to that of ordering from India for one kit.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Thanks!

First battery is all but finished now, only have shrink sleeve to finish which can now be done as all the P groups have charged and read the same.

Sense wires 2, 4 & 6 soldered in place.
The copper is 99.9% oxygen free and I have coated both sides of the buss bars with non conductive ACF Block grease, if copper is good enough for Jimmy it should be good enough for us to use.
View attachment 19446

Sense wires 1, 3 , 5 & 7 soldered in place.
The good thing about the bolt on buss bars is that all soldering heat can be applied with any bars off, so the cells receive no heat what so ever form the soldering.
On the right the two positive discharge connections are visible.
View attachment 19447

7s bms in place, hot glued on a foam pad.
View attachment 19448

Heat shrink sleeve (unshrunk).
View attachment 19449

Charge and discharge connections, 5.5 x 2.1 dc jack (pair) and xt60 respectively, these will sit on top of the heat shrink and will be held by hot glue or Kapton tape. The battery will eventually be packed with foam in a spray painted clip lock box fixed to the Swizz bee rear rack.
View attachment 19450

Next job is to make the 10s 5p battery using the very well priced 10a PF cells.

What about just bolting on a crimped ring terminal on the end of the sense wire instead of soldering?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I don't like crimped connectors, but you can get a ring terminal that you solder the sense wire to.

 

[Nealh]

Using the stainless buss bars soldering will be a problem, you could just use copper or nickel busses for the series connection only where you place the sense wires.
The bolts on the caps are only about 3mm or less so small ring connectors are needed.

 

[Nealh]

In addition to #75 a buyer in the US was quoted $136 for four kits delivered from the US Warehouse. The US stockist is that Micah fella who does the ebikeschool video tutorials.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Using the stainless buss bars soldering will be a problem, you could just use copper or nickel busses for the series connection only where you place the sense wires.
The bolts on the caps are only about 3mm or less so small ring connectors are needed.

I am going for 100% pure nickel bus bars the whole way when I buy the new cells from nkon. I don't mind soldering it is just that I wanted to stay in the spirit of being able to take everything to bits if I need to. I will probably crimp and solder the ring terminal on.