Cyclotricity Stealth Owners thread.

Altop1

Pedelecer
Oct 27, 2016
107
76
58
Lincolnshire
Hi looking at the stealth .Im after a bike for fun and getting out.I have alocal dealer who seems helpful.Would you guys buy again if you need to.cheers
 

Andy Bluenoes

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 31, 2016
849
305
54
uk
Hi looking at the stealth .Im after a bike for fun and getting out.I have alocal dealer who seems helpful.Would you guys buy again if you need to.cheers
Yes, definitely. If you can get a test drive, I would recommend it.

Ive only had it a few weeks, but had no issues so far. I do a 15 mile commute, and I can do that in around 45 minutes on a fast run. My average time is around 55 minutes.....part towpath/trail, 4 miles on regular roads.

I run it generally on level 2 assist and that will take you quicker than most bike users on flat roads.

And I can say it will put a smile on your face when you are off road.
Just get used to how the battery lasts on different levels of power assist, and check the level indicator on the battery, not the LCD as the LCD is showing load on the battery, not level remaining.

If you use throttle and higher level pedal assists, I would imagine quite low mileage would be achieved.
 

RobH

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 20, 2016
14
5
65
Cheshire
I'm just saying hello having purchased my first e-bike. Having been curious for a while I finally took the plunge and went for the 1000w Stealth. I've only had it a few days but I'm very pleased with it so far. One thing that puzzles me is that I have seen references to battery level indicator lights on the battery itself but mine doesn't seem to have any.
 

Andy Bluenoes

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 31, 2016
849
305
54
uk
I'm just saying hello having purchased my first e-bike. Having been curious for a while I finally took the plunge and went for the 1000w Stealth. I've only had it a few days but I'm very pleased with it so far. One thing that puzzles me is that I have seen references to battery level indicator lights on the battery itself but mine doesn't seem to have any.
Its on the right hand side next to the power input socket


Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
 

Andy Bluenoes

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 31, 2016
849
305
54
uk
Just wondering if anyone has accuracy problems with the battery LED indicator? My battery seems to be almost drained well before the lights drop back to the one red light, some times it seems to only lose one light
 

imcaufieldholt

Just Joined
Oct 24, 2015
3
4
55
Hi, just thought I'd add my experiences of the 1000W Stealth after having had it for 12 months.

The Good:
- Really love having an electric bike, for my 18 mile (9 each way) commute. Especially love the power of the 1000W. Not really sure I'm getting any fitter.

The Not So Good:
- The noise of the rear wheel. I replaced the freewheel gears which stopped a horrid grinding sound, I tightened the spokes which stopped a load of creaking sounds. Now I just get some horrid vibration at lower power levels, ie power level 1 or low throttle.
- My wife complains that I have almost replaced every part over the past 12 months. Not strictly true, but more than I have on any other bike.
- The battery indicators are a very very rough guide, I mostly rely on the distance I know I can cover. Power level 2 on 1000W will do about 20+ miles for me, but there is a fair bit of free wheeling.
- Taking and putting the back wheel on and off is a royal pain in the backside. I dread having to do it and results in alot of swearing. The first time I did this I hadn't noticed the organisation of the washers and had to take it off and put it back on 2 or 3 times, before I had the spacing right. I worry I'm going to break something. Buy good tyres to minimise the risk of puctures is the tip here :)
- I go through the brake pads quicker than I thought I would and replacing them was a learning experience for someone who has never had disk brakes before.
- The squeeling of the brakes is REALLY annoying, if anyone knows how to fix this I would be grateful. But saves on using my bell.
- I wish the spare batteries were cheaper, especially the charger, I would like to keep one at work and one at home, but at £70 for the charger that isn't going to happen.

What would make this a much better bike IMHO:
- Better quality brakes as an optional extra.
- Better quality bike computer as an optional extra, one that would be clearer on power left...... and actually showed the time :)
- An improved mechanism for getting the rear wheel on and off the frame (after unplugging it), so that I can put the bike in the car without needing the patience of a saint.

I had a spectacular crash about 3 months in when I took a corner and hit the curb...... put me out of action for another 3 months while my shoulder sorted itself out. I learnt a new found respect for the power of the bike.

Would I buy the same model again? For the price I paid (£1095), yes because I could get it on the work cyclescheme. Otherwise I would probably look around a little more..... maybe end up with the same one, but now its price is rising other models may seem more attractive.
 

Andy Bluenoes

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 31, 2016
849
305
54
uk
Tend to agree with pretty much everything you have said there. I have only had mine a month or so, but it sounds very similar.
I have done around 450 miles so far, and the initial set of break pads are nearly gone. I have emailed Cyclotricity to let me know what pads I need but they havent responded yet....

I do 15 miles into work, and I tend to use levels 2 and 3, its mostly flat and its on 1000w power....there have been a couple of occasions when its ran out of gas just before I get to work. Was a bit worried about that, as the battery only takes around 2.5 to 3 hours to charge after that, when the site says 5 hours to fully charge? As for the lights on the battery...pointless. I can have a flat battery and there will be 2 green lights left...unless of course there is a problem with it.

I will have to drop it back to 250 watts and do a comparison I guess.

My rear wheel is extremely noisy, particularly at a certain speed or under a certain load i think....once you get past that point, it quietens down again.

I think I need to tighten my spokes up at the weekend, as Im getting a few creaks from the back.

My intention was to replace the standard tyres with some decent ones, but I have spiked tyres on now for the winter, so I will change them come the spring.
Massive difference in rolling resistance with the spikes on, but I do feel a lot safer, especially after this mornings -6 commute!

I think I have sussed out getting the rear wheel off...its a bit if a pain, but ive done it a couple of times at home now, so should the worst happen and i need to change it while out, I think i could manage it now. Plenty of cable ties in my bag!

All in all, Im pleased with it, but long term if I can get fit enough, I will probably try a lightweight normal bike for work, and wont be lugging about 25kgs and wont have the worry about electrics failing etc
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Those rough zones from the motor can probably be tuned out by changing parameter P1 in the LCD. Press and hold the up and down buttons within a few seconds of switching on to get to the settings menu. Press and hold them again for a long time to get to the advanced settings. Make a note of P1 value, then try random numbers until you get one where the motor runs smoothly throughout its range. In theory, the number should be the same as the number of magnets in the motor for a DD motor, but that doesn't always work.
 
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Andy Bluenoes

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 31, 2016
849
305
54
uk
Thanks d8veh I will have a look later...although they were soecific not to change any settings as it may invalidate warranty of the motor if they are set wrong....the only one i have changed is P6 i think which changes the motor power
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
No harm will come to your system by changing P1. Obviously, If you motor runs rougher, change it back or try another number. It's not good to run with a rough motor. That value has something to do with the syncronisation. It affects how smooth the motor runs.
 
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imcaufieldholt

Just Joined
Oct 24, 2015
3
4
55
I have done around 450 miles so far, and the initial set of break pads are nearly gone. I have emailed Cyclotricity to let me know what pads I need but they havent responded yet....
Andy,
I bought a couple of these from Halfords:
http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-parts/bike-brakes/shimano-br-m965-metal-disc-brake-pads
Simply because they were the same shape.....
They seem to work, but I have no idea about the materials used and whether I am ruining the discs by using them.
Cyclotricity could really do with some owner FAQs.
Maybe we could help them with that....
 

imcaufieldholt

Just Joined
Oct 24, 2015
3
4
55
Those rough zones from the motor can probably be tuned out by changing parameter P1 in the LCD.
Hi d8veh,
Oh that would be great if I could smooth the wheel out, it would make my overall experience 100x better.
Thanks, I will go and have a play when I'm back home.
Ian
 

Andy Bluenoes

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 31, 2016
849
305
54
uk
Andy,
I bought a couple of these from Halfords:
http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-parts/bike-brakes/shimano-br-m965-metal-disc-brake-pads
Simply because they were the same shape.....
They seem to work, but I have no idea about the materials used and whether I am ruining the discs by using them.
Cyclotricity could really do with some owner FAQs.
Maybe we could help them with that....
Thanks Ian

Ill have a look at them on the way home tonight, Ive still not had a reply from Cyclotricity.
 

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