Cyclotricity Stealth Owners thread.

[RobF]

Hi, I'm new on here. I've had a 500W Stealth for about 4 or 5 months now, which I use to ride the 5 miles to work every day. Overall I'm quite pleased with it, but as others have said, it hasn't been without its issues. After a month or so, the hub motor wheel had to be returned (making the 'clacking sound', so I imagine that's not uncommon.

That's been ok since, but it's interesting to see what others have to say. I noted comments about the poor brakes, and quite agree. I'm looking to switch to hydraulics, so if anyone can link me to an ideal set on Amazon, I would be very appreciative. Having to remove the entire caliper to adjust the right pad (as it's obscured by the motor) is also a pain.

Other niggles include the width of the handlebars (which I've since changed for narrower ones) - they made it awkward to navigate through some barriers on bike paths, and also the run of the control cables under the BB. This area is a mud sponge, and I'm sure it can't be good electrically to be constantly scooping out massive cakes of wet earth near these connections.

Those aside, I'm still pleased with the thing. At 45, with practically a 25 year gap since my cycling 'enthusiast' days, and zero exercise in between, it's been brilliant.

Is the motor on the front or back?

If it's the back, you could leave that brake - which does very little braking on a bicycle - and only upgrade the front to hydraulic.

Presumably, there's no clearance problem there.

Look for a Shimano brake, even the basic ones are excellent and about a thousand times better than what's fitted on the bike.

The new calliper needs to have the same mount, usually either 'side' or 'post'.

It's possible to get adaptors - a google of the obvious should give you the information.

 

[Andy Bluenoes]

Excuse my ignorance on the subject, it does look like a great upograde, but how do the brake cutout sensors work when you replace the brakes for hydraulics?
The ones I have looked at on ebay all have new levers

 

[RobF]

Excuse my ignorance on the subject, it does look like a great upograde, but how do the brake cutout sensors work when you replace the brakes for hydraulics?
The ones I have looked at on ebay all have new levers

The brake cut outs won't be there on a replacement brake so won't work.

Hub/kits are not my thing, but I believe many users don't see the absence of a cut out as a problem.

Bosch bikes don't have cut outs, and they are fully legal as you probably know.

I think there was a post on here a few years ago about a Bosch motor that kept running of its own accord, but I reckon that's very rare.

 

[Andy Bluenoes]

Ah ok, thanks Rob. Just sounds a bit scary when you are used to it cutting out at the slightest touch of the brakes

 

[Andy Bluenoes]

Only thing I would like on my stealth is a battery that would give me a bit more range.
Cyclotricity dont sell any different ones to the standard though.
I can just about get 15 miles to work on mine, using a mix of asssitance levels, but knowing the battery range will decrease over time may become a problem.

 

[PH001]

Guys..read the thread! Pages 1 & 2 talk about brakes. To recap, Shimano BR-M355 rear caliper just clears the motor on a 203mm disc. You will lose the motor cut but it's no big deal, the brakes are easily powerful enough to stop the motor anyway.

I find the battery indicator on the battery to be completely and utterly useless. Mine always shows full even when the battery is flat. The Cyclotricity spiel about the lcd battery indicator showing load is complete nonsense....it shows volts, simple as. It's just the fact that there some pretty high impedances in the power transmission which mean as you draw current then the volts drop at the sense points and the lcd batt level indicator drops away.

 

[PH001]

Only thing I would like on my stealth is a battery that would give me a bit more range.
Cyclotricity dont sell any different ones to the standard though.
I can just about get 15 miles to work on mine, using a mix of asssitance levels, but knowing the battery range will decrease over time may become a problem.

Have a look at this...http://www.eclipsebikes.com/whale-175ah-lithium-frame-battery-sanyo-cells-p-1129.html

 

[PH001]

I recommend all owners download the LCD configuration manual on post #39. There are settings in there which change the behaviour of the LCD battery indicator which may make it more accurate. I will have a play when I next get chance. Also be interested in trying the 'cruise' mode which I did not know about.

 

[Andy Bluenoes]

I recommend all owners download the LCD configuration manual on post #39. There are settings in there which change the behaviour of the LCD battery indicator which may make it more accurate. I will have a play when I next get chance. Also be interested in trying the 'cruise' mode which I did not know about.

I wish there was a way to make the lcd readout at least get close to capacity remaining on the battery...its pretty useless in its current format.

Cant see anything in the manual, although I might set it so that I cant pull away using the throttle, and so force myself to use my legs....that may save a bit of battery!

 

[anotherkiwi]

I use the volts reading and when it shows near 31 V I know I am running on empty. Or 36.5 for the LiPo battery. I don't look at the bars.

The best way is a Watt meter on the battery which shows how much you have used and a bit of quick mental arithmetic tells you how much is left because you know how much it holds.

From what I understand this is a generic Chinese LCD and controller. Cruise may not be available wit the throttle you have, I think the throttle must have a cruise button which works in much the same way as cruise control works on cars.

 

[Bert Wapplington]

I hope there is someone who can advise?. My Cyclotricity stealth 1000w has been off the road now for going on 2 months. My back wheel came loose while riding it after a professional service?. Causing damage to the motor power cable at the rear wheel spindle, where it goes into the motor ( poor design I think).
I had error 3 code flashing on the LCD. After numerous calls and assistance from Cyclotricity I bought a new back wheel and conversion kit. First after having my original back wheel motor power cable repaired I tried that and got violent vibration from the motor and error 03 on the LCD, so I tried the new wheel and got the same??. Everything has been replaced apart from the throttle thumb control and the LCD!. Has anyone any ideas please?. Thank you.
P.S. I bought this bike second hand so no garuntee. Big mistake.

 

[Nealh]

On a lot of kits 03 often donates motor phase, so a short/break in a phase wire or a loose/poor phase wire connection. Being unfamiliar with that kit I assume there is a 2 part motor/controller connector along the rear stay. Disconnect and check no pins are bent then push them together aligning the arrows, the male connector has a raised line marked on it pushing it in to this mark you should feel a slight click. Also check the controller and the connectors from the motor cable ensure non are loose fitting.

 

[Bert Wapplington]

On a lot of kits 03 often donates motor phase, so a short/break in a phase wire or a loose/poor phase wire connection. Being unfamiliar with that kit I assume there is a 2 part motor/controller connector along the rear stay. Disconnect and check no pins are bent then push them together aligning the arrows, the male connector has a raised line marked on it pushing it in to this mark you should feel a slight click. Also check the controller and the connectors from the motor cable ensure non are loose fitting.

 

[Bert Wapplington]

Thank you very much I will check all you have suggested.

 

[OvercookedPeacock]

Is the motor on the front or back?

If it's the back, you could leave that brake - which does very little braking on a bicycle - and only upgrade the front to hydraulic.

Presumably, there's no clearance problem there.

Look for a Shimano brake, even the basic ones are excellent and about a thousand times better than what's fitted on the bike.

The new calliper needs to have the same mount, usually either 'side' or 'post'.

It's possible to get adaptors - a google of the obvious should give you the information.

Thanks RobF. Still a bit worried about the lack of brake cut-out (as others have said), but will scope it out.

 

[PH001]

How are we all getting on with our Stealths these days? Noticed it has been a few months since last post. I'm back on mine after little use over winter (apart from the odd mile or so to exercise the battery, and leaving it around 50% charged in a cool dry garage).

Finding the battery indication on the lcd worse than ever. Even after a full charge it instantly drops to 2 bars (50%), then if I give it the beans on full power up an incline the BMS cuts the power as it thinks the battery is dead. Lower the assistance level down to 1 or 2 and you can go for many miles more.

This points to a volt drop issue somewhere when a lot of current is drawn, It could be the battery internal impedance that is getting high or it could be that the power wiring that Cyclotricity use is a bit too thin. It all depends where the BMS detects the battery volts I guess.

If it is the battery approaching end of life I will not be a happy bunny as I'm only at 150 miles total on the bike and I've always charged it with care. Will do some investigation over the next few days.

Other than that the bike is problem free and still a very enjoyable beast.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I've always said that the 1000w Stealth pushes the battery to its limit. It's never going to last like it would on a 250w bike. If you replace it, get one that can truly supply enough current with room to spare.

 

[Andy Bluenoes]

A lot of mixed feelings with mine.

I have had it since September, had a problem with the motor a month or so in, but that was replaced under warranty, along with the lcd and controller. Those 2 were replaced as they were the initial diagnosis of the motor problem, but they were fine. So I have spares now

Until a month or so ago, I ran the bike on 1000 watts, using low assist levels, and upping it on places i knew were ok to use the power. Was a constant juggle to get the battery to last the 15 mile commute, so have since switched it to 250 watt mode. I can do the same journey in very similar times...if not faster as Im not constantly knocking the assit level right down.

So, maybe I shouldnt have bothered with the 1000 watt after all.

Having said that, its a great blast to have on the odd shorter journey I do.

Generally, the bike has been good. Ive clocked up jsut under 2000 miles since september.
Had to replace the chain a few weeks back...which lead to the freewheel and derailleur due to damge when the chain skipped off. Then there was the fun with the cowboy bike shop.....

But, Im a lot more confident now in fixing issues with the bike. I can even adjust the gears now

So, its not a bad biker at all really. Especially as I now have decent mudguards on it.

Upcoming problem is my commute is going from 15 to 20 miles in June. I really dont think the bike will manage that without really dropping the asssist down. I really want to get the journey done in as close to an hour as possible, and without sweating buckets when I get there.

I have the chance to do a 20 mile run this friday, albeit not the same route as I will be doing, but might try it and see if it lasts.

The battery indicator on mine is the opposite to yours.....it can be nearly empty and it shows 4 bars, so i dont even bother with it now.

I did speak to Cyclotricity a month or so bad and they did mention that a 17ah battery may be available soon...so that could be an option. But can the rest of the bike manage 4000 miles a year?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Upcoming problem is my commute is going from 15 to 20 miles in June. I really dont think the bike will manage that without really dropping the asssist down. I really want to get the journey done in as close to an hour as possible, and without sweating buckets when I get there.

I have the chance to do a 20 mile run this friday, albeit not the same route as I will be doing, but might try it and see if it lasts.

The battery indicator on mine is the opposite to yours.....it can be nearly empty and it shows 4 bars, so i dont even bother with it now.

I did speak to Cyclotricity a month or so bad and they did mention that a 17ah battery may be available soon...so that could be an option. But can the rest of the bike manage 4000 miles a year?

You can use any battery. it doesn't have to be a Cyclotricity one.

 

[Andy Bluenoes]

You can use any battery. it doesn't have to be a Cyclotricity one.

Just thinking the cyclotricity one would be a direct swap

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