Cyclamatic Power Plus with 36v battery and controller

[dtg78]

So I got my new controller and am having issues getting it to work with the cyclamatic, any suggestions? Here is the controller I bought.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191389631281?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[billyx22]

Hi,
I have the same bike and was wanting to do the same as you... go to 36v
Did you manage to sort out your problems?
Thanks.

 

[Kinninvie]

I would think the 24V controller would probably work ok on 36V.
Perhaps the Op could open his old one and check the caps voltage?

 

[billyx22]

That's double dutch to me lol
I just need a bit more hill climbing power, not concerned with speed, distance etc.
Chose the wrong bike me thinks!

 

[trex]

the original Power Plus comes with a 24V battery.
you need to have a 36V battery to use a 36V controller. If you connect a 24V battery to it, the motor won't start. It's usually not economical to upgrade a 24V bike to 36V because you also need a new battery which is difficult to find because of the plugs - even if you do, it will cost about £250.
You'd be better off selling it second hand and buy another bike with 36V battery.
Like this £585 woosh Sirocco:
http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?sirocco

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That's double dutch to me lol
I just need a bit more hill climbing power, not concerned with speed, distance etc.
Chose the wrong bike me thinks!

If you only want better climbing, you can solder about 25% of the shunt in the controller. This is only recommended if you have a good battery. If the battery is more than 2 years old, it wouldn't be a good idea to do it.

The procedure involves taking the controller out of its compartment under the battery, remove the 4 screws in the wires end and the three in the side, then you can slide out the contents. The shunt lies on the board under the big cylindrical component (capacitor). You heat the shunt with the tip of your soldering iron and then wipe on some solder being careful not to let it drip onto the board. Start at one end, and cover no more than 25% of the length.

The difference will be immediately noticeable. You will then be running with more current (power), so your battery will go down more quickly.

The Cyclamatic controller can handle 36v, so you can also get more power by swapping the 24v battery for a 36v one of the same type. Nothing else needs to change, except that it would probably be a good idea to fit a voltmeter to show when your battery is run down because the throttle LEDs will be on all the time and the controller won't cut the power when the battery has gone too low because, like the LEDs, it's set for a 24v battery. The battery does have its own liw voltage cut-off to protect it, but that can't be 100% relied on.

 

[trex]

if I understand correctly, Billy got a new 36V controller but still the 24V battery. He can't achieve much with that kit. Cyclamatic don't sell a compatible 36V and a new 24V battery from them costs £299.

 

[billyx22]

No, it wasn't me that got a 36v controller it was the OP he had bought a 36v battery and controller seperately but could not get the controller to work.
I only responded to his post to see if he had managed to sort out the problem.

 

[trex]

Thank you Billy. @ dtg78 - please post pictures of the label on the new controller and the connectors for us for identification. Assuming you have the LED panel lit and the voltage meter with all 5 LEDs lit, try this first: unplug the throttle and brake sensors then test the pedelec function.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

if I understand correctly, Billy got a new 36V controller but still the 24V battery. He can't achieve much with that kit. Cyclamatic don't sell a compatible 36V and a new 24V battery from them costs £299.

Cyclamatic don't sell a 36v battery, but there's loads of people that do. The case is a standard fitment. It's used on loads of bikes.

 

[trex]

behind the seat post batteries: I've seen the length of the locking guide varies, the position of the output port at the base of the case varies, the charging socket varies, the pinout at the 4-pin output port varies even the dimensions vary. Just too many variables. Maybe dtg78 can tell us where he got his battery and if it fits his bike.

 

[selrahc1992]

behind the seat post batteries: I've seen the length of the locking guide varies, the position of the output port at the base of the case varies, the charging socket varies, the pinout at the 4-pin output port varies even the dimensions vary. Just too many variables. Maybe dtg78 can tell us where he got his battery and if it fits his bike.

don't mean to complicate things - but i suspect a 24v cyclamatic wont have much of a second hand value - what would be teh downside of buying this stonkingly big 24V with its carrier rack
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/525-24v20ah-lifepo4-alloy-03-case-ebike-battery-with-a-carrier-rack-battery.html
and - mounting it separately - then you could solder teh shunt as much as you possibly want and have loads of torque and range

 

[trex]

that's one solution for the upgrade. You can push the torque up maybe 25% but are still stuck with a 6-FET controller. Nowadays, the standard kit seems to be the BPM motor + a KU93 9-FET controller and a 36V battery with a minimum 13AH capacity.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

behind the seat post batteries: I've seen the length of the locking guide varies, the position of the output port at the base of the case varies, the charging socket varies, the pinout at the 4-pin output port varies even the dimensions vary. Just too many variables. Maybe dtg78 can tell us where he got his battery and if it fits his bike.

It's not as complicated as that. They nearly always fit. In the worst case, you have to swap the terminals over from + to -. The batteries often come with base-plate and lock-guide.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Here's my thread on hot-rodding a Cyclamatic. The photos are in my Photobucket.

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/cyclamatic-the-beastamatic-is-dead-long-live-the-beastamatic.9857/

 

[Fordulike]

Dug up an old thread on my 36v battery / sensorless controller mod for the Cyclamatic. Boy, that was a long time ago

http://pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/the-original-beastamatic-is-back-and-its-angrier.9991/#post-119708

 

[Fordulike]

... And a shunt mod link for original spec if anyone is interested:

http://pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/cyclamatic-controller-mod-walkthrough-with-pics.9183/#post-117963

 

[billyx22]

So even though I was not too sure about this I gave the shunt mod a go.
All was going well, did the soldering, left the controller and all wires out just to test power getting to the wheel/motor etc
Put controller and wires back and took it out for a quick spin see if there were any changes......... nothing... no throttle...no PAS...lights were on but no power.
Fear I have broken something but no idea what!

 

[Fordulike]

So even though I was not too sure about this I gave the shunt mod a go.
All was going well, did the soldering, left the controller and all wires out just to test power getting to the wheel/motor etc
Put controller and wires back and took it out for a quick spin see if there were any changes......... nothing... no throttle...no PAS...lights were on but no power.
Fear I have broken something but no idea what!

Just wondering if when you slid the circuit board back into the casing, whether you have put it in at an angle and shorted the bottom of the circuit board on the metal casing.

 

[billyx22]

Quite possibly, I didn't actually get the board in at all till I realised there was a groove, but as I say it is possible.
Is there a way I could know for sure if I had?
I was thinking I had loosened a wire or something because it was a tough job getting them all back in place.