Confused and looking for 48v 250w rear hub since Yose won't sell me 250w 36v kit with 15ah battery

[throwawaychap]

Was it the 350w kit ? I think Amazon and eBay (I read somewhere on these forums) have a policy of not selling non compliant e bikes / kits, but I suspect this is policed after the sale. I suspect that is the reason for the email, but if you don't return the kit eBay are not liable - but that is conjecture on my part.

Contact Yosepower direct ?

service@yosepower.co.uk

Yes. It was the 350w rear hub cassette kit.

As for non compliant kits, I see both Ebay and Amazon full of 500w, 1000w and even 1500w motors and kits on sale.

So, does that mean everyone who purchases one of these kits gets one of these emails?

The thing is, the listing I bought the item from is no longer up, but the Yose store I bought it from is still operating, as still is their other Ebay store - that I mentioned above.

It's baffling because at a glance at least, the entire kit looks fine. And from the few odd minutes I've tested it, it seems to work fine.
And I got my battery from elsewhere.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Yes. It was the 350w rear hub cassette kit.

As for non compliant kits, I see both Ebay and Amazon full of 500w, 1000w and even 1500w motors and kits on sale.

So, does that mean everyone who purchases one of these kits gets one of these emails?

The thing is, the listing I bought the item from is no longer up, but the Yose store I bought it from is still operating, as still is their other Ebay store - that I mentioned above.

It's baffling because at a glance at least, the entire kit looks fine. And from the few odd minutes I've tested it, it seems to work fine.
And I got my battery from elsewhere.

I would try contacting the seller or yosepower

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Product safety policy

Products that pose a health or safety hazard aren't allowed.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[throwawaychap]

Product safety policy

Products that pose a health or safety hazard aren't allowed.

www.ebay.co.uk

View attachment 56232

So you reckon the warning is indeed just due to the 350w rating of the motor?

I think your guess makes sense.

I can't conceivably think of any other reason why I received that email. The kit was brand new and in working order, much like every Yose power unboxing/review I watched on Youtube.

I did contact eBay's customer service, and got an email back from them with the transcript of the conversation I had with their staff, just to have additional paper trail to go along with the email/warning I got in case I need to put in a claim for a refund.

 

[saneagle]

Yes. It was the 350w rear hub cassette kit.

As for non compliant kits, I see both Ebay and Amazon full of 500w, 1000w and even 1500w motors and kits on sale.

So, does that mean everyone who purchases one of these kits gets one of these emails?

The thing is, the listing I bought the item from is no longer up, but the Yose store I bought it from is still operating, as still is their other Ebay store - that I mentioned above.

It's baffling because at a glance at least, the entire kit looks fine. And from the few odd minutes I've tested it, it seems to work fine.
And I got my battery from elsewhere.

You got what you ordered. You knew what it was and it works. It would be unfair and morally wrong for you to make any claim against the seller.

What's happened is one of our fun prevention officers has seen the 350w listing on Ebay and complained, so Ebay have de-listed the item and wants to cover themselves against claims that people bought an ebike kit that they thought was compliant. You should just enjoy what you bought and leave the seller alone, because they have enough problems sorting out the mess.

 

[throwawaychap]

You got what you ordered. You knew what it was and it works. It would be unfair and morally wrong for you to make any claim against the seller.

What's happened is one of our fun prevention officers has seen the 350w listing on Ebay and complained, so Ebay have de-listed the item and wants to cover themselves against claims that people bought an ebike kit that they thought was compliant. You should just enjoy what you bought and leave the seller alone, because they have enough problems sorting out the mess.

Yes. It can only be that.

Initially I thought I was among the buyers of a faulty batch of kits.

Edit:
Hence I contacted Ebay's customer service to find out more information on what the issue actually was.

Only after @Peter.Bridge suggested it could be due to the motor rating, did I connect the dots.

Now I'm much more at ease, it was a very strange email though, they should be less ambiguous and actually say what they mean.

It is a bit odd seeing there are multiple 1000w+ kits on eBay as well.

The kit looks good quality.

On another note;

are these 'waterproof' battery covers useful or are they a gimmick?

Does anybody here use them?

 

[guerney]

I cover my battery with two "waterproof" rucksack covers: a black one, with a hiviz on top... because just one cover isn't waterproof enough. Secured by velcro straps. They've kept my battery dry despite many hours of sustained rain.

 

[thelarkbox]

Battery covers are a con imho, is your next battery/spare going to be exactly the same size and fit too? I would bet a bigger battery is a probability.. the waterproof daysack cover seems like a premium solution and a day-glo colour would provide a multi use solution to what im using an old placky bag for atm..

If using a plastic bag wrapped around be mindful that the folds will retain water, I made the mistake of leaving the battery wrapped up returning home one wet friday evening when i had wrapped a black bin liner around secured with cable ties i could slip on and off the top and bottom of the battery since heading out that day

Come the sunday morning when i removed the bag the battery case was still wet from the small percentage of water that had penetrated and the bag had retained it close to the battery DOH!! No issues as a consequence (that im aware of..) but i doubt the extra moist environment was the best for the battery so be mindful and remember to remove water protection promptly when done with whatever option you go with..

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Yes. It can only be that.

Initially I thought I was among the buyers of a faulty batch of kits.

It is a bit odd seeing there are multiple 1000w+ kits on eBay as well

Yeah, I think they police this post sale rather than screen adverts, bit weird, must be some financial incentive for eBay doing it that way round

 

[throwawaychap]

Battery covers are a con imho, is your next battery/spare going to be exactly the same size and fit too? I would bet a bigger battery is a probability.. the waterproof daysack cover seems like a premium solution and a day-glo colour would provide a multi use solution to what im using an old placky bag for atm..

If using a plastic bag wrapped around be mindful that the folds will retain water, I made the mistake of leaving the battery wrapped up returning home one wet friday evening when i had wrapped a black bin liner around secured with cable ties i could slip on and off the top and bottom of the battery since heading out that day

Come the sunday morning when i removed the bag the battery case was still wet from the small percentage of water that had penetrated and the bag had retained it close to the battery DOH!! No issues as a consequence (that im aware of..) but i doubt the extra moist environment was the best for the battery so be mindful and remember to remove water protection promptly when done with whatever option you go with..

I got a 36v 20ah battery from Greenlance. I don't think I'll be going any bigger unless I went with a triangle shape battery like those delivery guys, it'd be difficult to fit a larger one on my bike.

I was thinking of going with black bin bags with velcro ties in case of sudden rain.


That's something I haven't researched yet. From looking at those 'waterproof' covers, something tells me they are not that efficient but I don't know.

 

[guerney]

The hiviz rucksack cover over my battery gets dirty, oil doesn't wash off and I replace it with a new one every year or so. Someone dumped a big dayglow orange traffic cone on my lawn a couple of weeks ago, and although it belongs to some government department... I'm wondering if I can cut+heat form the thing to make a hiviz waterproof hard battery cover. My "shark"battery is on top of the rear rack, so I could cut slots to hook it on. Might be rattly, but easier to clean.

 

[throwawaychap]

One more update:

I have finally been able to test the bike for once.

It's been raining non stop all week, but this morning I managed to take it out for a ride - my first ever ride on an e-bike - and it felt magical.

A few numbers on a full battery:

With the controller set to 18a (briefly for testing purposes). I managed to reach 33.8 km/h (21.00mph) on a flat with a slight decline at the tail end of it.

With it set to 15a, I reached 32.6 km/h (20.2mph) on a flat.

Both measures taken via throttle only.

I ordered a half-twist throttle from eBay for 10 quid.
Both throttle and PAS have a delay before triggering the motor. These are default settings.

And I think I like the pedal assist more than the throttle, I may even end up removing the throttle altogether eventually.

I haven't looked into the display settings manual but for finding where to raise/lower the controller amperage, but I'm sure there is a way to adjust or tinker with when the motor kicks off but I feel it's fine - and perhaps even safer - this way.

I tried weighing the bike but my portable luggage scale faltered.

All my 27 gears worked and shifted as they were before, which is great news.

The bike feels light and nimble enough to pedal without the motor, which is also great news.


On a final note, my battery mount adapter didn't allow me to fit a bigger controller box (so I could fit all my cables inside it), since my battery still stayed sat low-ish on the downtube.

I only managed to fit the controller, the battery cable and PAS cable in it.

Cable management was a bit of a pain, but as I understand it, the lower the battery, the more aerodynamic the bike becomes - or something like that.

A great big thank you to everyone here and on the forum in general, without this place I wouldn't have been able to do it.

 

[thelarkbox]

Good to hear, wishin you many many happy miles..

 

[throwawaychap]

Good to hear, wishin you many many happy miles..

Thank you, Lark.

Today I'm looking at tidying up my cable management.

I've managed to remove my 60cm motor cable extension.

Since I'm no longer going to fit my hydraulic brake sensors - no need to at the speeds I'll be travelling.

I was looking for 1-to-2 cables with connectors for display and throttle only.

But, Topbikekit only sell 29cm and 72cm versions of it. I would need one that's 105 to 110cm.

Yose's 1-to-4 cable is 150cm long, a tad too long for me (but it works of course).

I've seen 105cm 1-to-4 cables, but not 1-to-2s. Maybe I'll get the former, if I find one reasonably priced. But it's not an urgent matter.

 

[thelarkbox]

I urge you to reconsider fitting brake cut offs, the delay between stopping pedaling and the motor/controller reacting and cutting off power to the motor. Will significantly increase your stopping distance.

Your brakes will wear significantly faster, they will anyway but braking against the motor all day every day will wear even faster.

And you will be constantly dumping unwanted heat into the motor which may have an impact on its lifespan.

your ability to perform an emergency stop will be limited.

the 350w controller may let you change how the motor/controller responds to pas sensor input stopping?? the 250w kits do not, making brake cut off sensors necessary imho.

 

[Cadence]

I urge you to reconsider fitting brake cut offs, the delay between stopping pedaling and the motor/controller reacting and cutting off power to the motor. Will significantly increase your stopping distance.
The 350w controller may let you change how the motor/controller responds to pas sensor input stopping?? the 250w kits do not, making brake cut off sensors a necessary imho.

I found that having a brake cut off when a throttle is fitted is an absolute necessity. My throttle happened to stick partially open - fortunately while I was walking the bike and just gave it a small "nudge". A quick grab of the brake enabled me to stop the motor, then switch the display off. I was able to disconnect the throttle to complete the jouney. Yose sent me a replacement throttle under warranty after I sent them a video with the throttle connected (bike on a stand). The Yose 350w controller doesn't allow any adjustment of the PAS motor cut-off, but mine are pretty instantaneous.
Incidentally, for those who have cable brakes and combined brake lever/shifters here is a hack to fit a magnetic cut-out to the rear brake cable on the frame:-


I don't think it would work on a steel frame though.

Whatever type you use, you only really need one on the rear brake. As others have said, very useful to cut the motor when slowing down and changing gear at the same time.

 

[throwawaychap]

I urge you to reconsider fitting brake cut offs, the delay between stopping pedaling and the motor/controller reacting and cutting off power to the motor. Will significantly increase your stopping distance.

Your brakes will wear significantly faster, they will anyway but braking against the motor all day every day will wear even faster.

And you will be constantly dumping unwanted heat into the motor which may have an impact on its lifespan.

your ability to perform an emergency stop will be limited.

the 350w controller may let you change how the motor/controller responds to pas sensor input stopping?? the 250w kits do not, making brake cut off sensors necessary imho.

That's valuable information, Lark.

I was proactive, and ordered my hydraulic brake sensors way before I purchased my kit. I got it from Yose's eBay outlet - since it said it came from China with up to a 30 day delivery

But last week I spent a while on Youtube trying to learn the best way to fit it, and I noticed it's a bit of a constant pain for people.

You need special glue for the pads and the magnets (apparently the innate adhesive on the pads is not enough, nor is the magnets' magnetism enough to stay put on the brake levers), and it involves a lot of repairing every now and then.

I'll look up a few tutorials again, and try to fit it since I've got it anyway.

If it's safer, especially in case of emergency, and it will save my rotors a bit, then it's probably worth it.

But, I reiterate I don't plan on riding that fast, probably 19mph tops, but mostly 15-17mph.

-------------

And @Cadence that sounds terrifying. I wonder if that also happens to half-twist throttles.

As I said earlier I'm considering removing my throttle altogether as I enjoyed the PAS more based on my first ride this morning.

I'd probably keep it in my bike bag along with my tools in case I need it if my chain breaks or something.

 

[thelarkbox]

yeah when gluing magnets in place near ferrous metals, clip them down until the glue has cured

JBWELD do quality epoxy products, and they do a steel putty ?steel stick? you can 'prototype and test magnet positions with blutac and fix with the epoxy putty, making it straight forward.. its about a fiver iirc

sugru is a soft silicone mold-able putty available in a few colours, not as strong as epoxy but it just needs to hold a lil magnet. and perhaps the softer silicone product would absorb shocks? a bitb more expensive but if colour matching is a big deal...

with 2 x fitted if one magnet falls off or gets knocked off the 2nd is there as a backup and there is no pressure to fix there and then.

A controller/display off button and or a battery off switch are on most if not all ebikes but when panic or shock sets in muscle memory gripping brake levers needs no thought..

 

[throwawaychap]

I will certainly be experimenting with it this week.

These are the two videos I found:

They both use JB Weld epoxy / bonder, but I wonder if the Gorilla Epoxy works just as well since I can source it locally - whereas the JB Weld I'd have to get from Amazon or Ebay.

The guy users a rubber washer on the magnet, I haven't got one, but I was thinking of cutting a piece of old inner tube and super gluing it to the magnet and then gluing that to the brake lever - for adhesiveness and shock absorption. Not sure if it will work.

I'll probably try fitting one sensor, and then monitor how it fares for a month of so. If it's solid and works well, I'll fit the other one.

 

[thelarkbox]

goto any car spares or h/w shop and ask for 'steel' or metal putty.. branding is not crucial, its not the strength but the putty like quality allowing you to mold it to a shape thats attractive for this use case.

rubber is a tricky substance to glue i would avoid, drilling a thru hole where u want to glue will create an anchor point too

While ive not glued this particular job.. a roll of metal putty was a staple in my m/cycle carry and has fixed a situation inc a leaky petrol tank on the go many times.

give any epoxy a good 24 hrs to cure before exposing to ridding the bike for the best results.