Post #10. The ebay link is in bold and underlined.
You quoted saneagle's suggestion, see post #16.
Don't spend money until you know for certain you need to.
charging a battery help
- Thread starter billyboya
- Start date
Don't spend money until you know for certain you need to.
there is no link in saneagles post above regarding a link to a multi meter
thats a link to a reference board thing I wont know how to use that or what it does
Where did I say there was? Why not do as he suggests? At this point you don't know if your cheapo multimeter is inaccurate.
sorry I got a bit confused
Yes I tried that and my meter is inaccuarate, so will check around for a better meter
There are oodles of recommendations on this thread, which I also linked in post #10:
Checking Multimeter Calibration at Home
One of the most important tools in an e-biker's toolbox is a multimeter (aka Digital Volt Meter or DVM). It is sometimes needed to be used to measure voltages with a high degree of accuracy, for example looking at the output of a charger to tell if it is set up to the correct voltage or not...
www.pedelecs.co.uk
As mentioned on that thread, according to the linked reference board, both of these are reasonably accurate. Shop around.
NEOTECK Digital Multimeter 4000 Counts Auto Range Multimeter DMM Logic Test Voltage Current Capacitance Tester NCV Temperature - AliExpress 1420
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com
ANENG AN8008/AN8009 Mini Digital Multimeter rm 409b double fuse auto-range medidor eléctricoTrue-RMS Transistor Capacitor Teste - AliExpress 1420
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com
There are oodles of recommendations on this thread, which I also linked in post #10:
Checking Multimeter Calibration at Home
One of the most important tools in an e-biker's toolbox is a multimeter (aka Digital Volt Meter or DVM). It is sometimes needed to be used to measure voltages with a high degree of accuracy, for example looking at the output of a charger to tell if it is set up to the correct voltage or not...
As mentioned on that thread, according to the linked reference board, both of these are reasonably accurate. Shop around.
NEOTECK Digital Multimeter 4000 Counts Auto Range Multimeter DMM Logic Test Voltage Current Capacitance Tester NCV Temperature - AliExpress 1420
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
ANENG AN8008/AN8009 Mini Digital Multimeter rm 409b double fuse auto-range medidor eléctricoTrue-RMS Transistor Capacitor Teste - AliExpress 1420
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
they both say this ------- Sorry, this item is no longer available!
That's why I said:
Talking of which, I'm off to buy a new computer bit.
There is no need to buy another charger as it is working correctly.
Charger plugged in and on , not connected to battery LED green . This is correct as it indicates no current is being asked for.
Connected to battery LED is red, indcating current is being asked for by the BMS.
The end of the charge there is a fine line between the LED going from red to green.
The balancing at the end of the charge process can take up to 2hrs as the final charge current is measly 40mA - 60mA that the BMS asks for.
At the end when one moves the charge jack , one disrupts the power supply connection briefly this causes the LED to go green. It is at the end of the balance process and once there is brief disruption there is to little current draw to tuen red again.
How soon after full charge the charger LED changes from red to green is down to the charger sensitivity of registering the small current being asked for during balance. Some chargers react quicker then others.
Charger plugged in and on , not connected to battery LED green . This is correct as it indicates no current is being asked for.
Connected to battery LED is red, indcating current is being asked for by the BMS.
The end of the charge there is a fine line between the LED going from red to green.
The balancing at the end of the charge process can take up to 2hrs as the final charge current is measly 40mA - 60mA that the BMS asks for.
At the end when one moves the charge jack , one disrupts the power supply connection briefly this causes the LED to go green. It is at the end of the balance process and once there is brief disruption there is to little current draw to tuen red again.
How soon after full charge the charger LED changes from red to green is down to the charger sensitivity of registering the small current being asked for during balance. Some chargers react quicker then others.
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It doesn't matter if it's inaccurate. As long as you know to subtract the same amount from the reading, you'll be OK. The next one you get might be too low.
This thread has prompted me to take a look at the mains plugs on my three 42v. (for 36v. battery) chargers, all supplied by Yosepower. They are all fused, but one is a 3amp charger which has a 13amp fuse and the other two are 2 amp chargers with 7.5amp fuses in. I've got some 5 amp fuses in the garage somewhere which I'll be fitting as soon as I can find them.
"The fuse did not contain any ballast as is required by the standard and is considered counterfeit. The fuse presents potential hazards of electric shock/fire/explosion when used in a product. "
HL R-Team E-Bike Batteries and Chargers Recall | Electrical Safety First
The HL R-Team E-Bike Batteries and Chargers has been recalled. This product may have safety issues or dangerous defects.
www.electricalsafetyfirst.org.uk
Ok as I don’t think the charger is at fault. Probably a cheap multimeter. I won’t bother getting a new multimeter as will just leave it charging next time even if meter says 42.3v then see if charger go green
Good point. These devices are made for world markets, and some countries don't use plugs with fuses, so it would make sense to have the fuse inside the device rather than in the plug, and they fitted a UK plug that had an unused fuse in it.
I one is 100% sure it is unfused (unlikely) , then desolder the positve feed wire inside and solder on one of those mini blade fuse holders in line .
I'm a lover not an electrician... but as I uderstand it, the ickle tiny traffic cop demons which live inside those funny shaped cylinders and boxes etc. on the board, slow down electron pixies travelling at 12V or faster from a power supply into one pair of connectors, to the set voltage speeds scrawled on the board, before they exit from the other pair of connectors on the other side. Those speeds have been measured by elite higher ranked traffic cop demons living in much more expensive and far more accurate measuring gizmos than I can afford. If you shove 12V in one end and don't get the scrawled voltages out, your meter is not accurate. Pixies which refuse to slow down are eaten by demon cops.
I may open my charger up to look. How do I test for a fake fuse inside the charger?
This Grin dude says blade fuses don't always blow, causing problems. Three in series would increase the odds of one blowing:
Do BMS Battery ship from China?
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