Change off mind from yose power to mid drive

[Michael 2025]

Apologise in advance if should of kept it in my old thread

my head been batted with choosing this conversation kits , was so set on hub drive but
Been looking at mid drives kit again after segnal on here pointed out mid drive was option .
Think he right there more balenced for my bike
Easy repair punctures etc

so been looking at these

TSDZ8 48v
TSDZ2B 48v
BBS02 48v

the only thing put me off mid drives is if chain snaps but was thinking if carry quick link and spare chain that should sort me problem
and Slow down before charge gear .

but main one is will it fit my carrea hellcat 20 inch frame bottom bracket 73mm
And will be chain alignment be right for me
This Bike ,

few pic me bike to see what you think and appreciate all advice will get this built
And stop asking so many questions

 

[Peter.Bridge]

I've got a BBS02 conversion and it works well although rated at 750W so not UK or EU legal. I also converted an old Gary Fisher mountain bike for my sister using the Woosh TSDZ8 48v (rated at 250W) it's very powerful. It does fit 68mm and 73mm bottom brackets, but you need to be careful with the chainstay. There is a template you can cut out and check

I originally fitted a washer to give clearance of the motor from the frame, but then there wasn't enough thread with a 73mm bottom bracket to fit the locknut, so I made some "alterations" to the chainstay with a hammer and hacksaw and it fitted great, didn't need the spacing washer and I could fit the locknut. Make sure you tighten the motor very tight before fitting the locknut

E-Bike for Coast to Coast ride

If the outer part of the puller won't screw into the crank arm then, yes you need a different puller. When you've got the right puller don't forget to make sure the inner part is well unscrewed before you screw the outer part fully into the crank arm. If you don't do that the outer will only...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

 

[saneagle]

Apologise in advance if should of kept it in my old thread

my head been batted with choosing this conversation kits , was so set on hub drive but
Been looking at mid drives kit again after segnal on here pointed out mid drive was option .
Think he right there more balenced for my bike
Easy repair punctures etc

so been looking at these

TSDZ8 48v
TSDZ2B 48v
BBS02 48v

the only thing put me off mid drives is if chain snaps but was thinking if carry quick link and spare chain that should sort me problem
and Slow down before charge gear .

but main one is will it fit my carrea hellcat 20 inch frame bottom bracket 73mm
And will be chain alignment be right for me
This Bike ,

few pic me bike to see what you think and appreciate all advice will get this built
And stop asking so many questions

Puncture repairs are not easier on mid-drives. The procedure is the same:

• Invert the bike
• Pull the tyre off one side
• Pull the tube out
• Pump in some air
• Find the leak
• Patch it
• Check the tyre in the corresponding position to remove whatever caaused the puncture
• Push the tube back in
• Pull the tyre back on
• Pump it up.

That's the same whichever type of motor you have.
There are three main differences that you'll notice: Firstly, you have to be in the right gear all the time. If you stop in top gear, you can do some serious damage if you try to restart in it, especially on a higher power one. Once incident has the potential to leave you stranded with a broken chain or derailleur. Some people are more disciplined and careful. I smashed a chain like that on my hub-motor bike, so it won't be long before it happens on my crank one. During a long commute in temperatures below zero, your hands become cold any you become lethargic. You lose the will to change gear.

Secondly, is the crunch you get during shifting sometimes - mainly when accelerating uphill, but it can happen anytime. That's only a problem if you have mechanical sympathy for your bike. It's like hitting a puppy. Some people don't care at all. Others can't stand it. The puppy doesn't like it much either. Eventually it becomes injured.

Thirdly is the cost. When you increase the stress on components, the wear rates accelerate, so they need to be checked and replaced more frequently - chain, cassette, chainwheel and derailleur parts. The more powerful the motor, the worse thats going to be. Riding round an level one with a TSDZ2 wouldn't bemuch different to a normal bike, but a TSDZ8 on level 4 all the time is going to do some wearing.

I ride a 48v TSDZ2 most of the time now, because I'm too lazy to sort out some issues with the suspension on my hub-motor bike. It's quite a bit slower, especially on hills. I'm pretty sure it's less powerful because I have to shift right down on medium inclines, which I don't do on my other bike. It feels slower all-round.

The big advantage is the speed and convenience of installation. It's very quick when your bike doesn't have rear suspension. The only problem I had was the chain kept coming off when I used the low gears. That's quite common when you fit a new chain to a crank-drive bike, but once the chain has worn a bit, it can bend more side to side and the alignment isn't so important. I fixed it by making a chain guide to hold the chain on the chainwheel, which was just a piece of bent metal fixed to the seat tube. £7 for the frame clamp, 10 minutes to drill and bend the metal strip and a few goes at adjusting the bend until it was right.

 

[Michael 2025]

Puncture repairs are not easier on mid-drives. The procedure is the same:

• Invert the bike
• Pull the tyre off one side
• Pull the tube out
• Pump in some air
• Find the leak
• Patch it
• Check the tyre in the corresponding position to remove whatever caaused the puncture
• Push the tube back in
• Pull the tyre back on
• Pump it up.

That's the same whichever type of motor you have.
There are three main differences that you'll notice: Firstly, you have to be in the right gear all the time. If you stop in top gear, you can do some serious damage if you try to restart in it, especially on a higher power one. Once incident has the potential to leave you stranded with a broken chain or derailleur. Some people are more disciplined and careful. I smashed a chain like that on my hub-motor bike, so it won't be long before it happens on my crank one. During a long commute in temperatures below zero, your hands become cold any you become lethargic. You lose the will to change gear.

Secondly, is the crunch you get during shifting sometimes - mainly when accelerating uphill, but it can happen anytime. That's only a problem if you have mechanical sympathy for your bike. It's like hitting a puppy. Some people don't care at all. Others can't stand it. The puppy doesn't like it much either. Eventually it becomes injured.

Thirdly is the cost. When you increase the stress on components, the wear rates accelerate, so they need to be checked and replaced more frequently - chain, cassette, chainwheel and derailleur parts. The more powerful the motor, the worse thats going to be. Riding round an level one with a TSDZ2 wouldn't bemuch different to a normal bike, but a TSDZ8 on level 4 all the time is going to do some wearing.

I ride a 48v TSDZ2 most of the time now, because I'm too lazy to sort out some issues with the suspension on my hub-motor bike. It's quite a bit slower, especially on hills. I'm pretty sure it's less powerful because I have to shift right down on medium inclines, which I don't do on my other bike. It feels slower all-round.

The big advantage is the speed and convenience of installation. It's very quick when your bike doesn't have rear suspension. The only problem I had was the chain kept coming off when I used the low gears. That's quite common when you fit a new chain to a crank-drive bike, but once the chain has worn a bit, it can bend more side to side and the alignment isn't so important. I fixed it by making a chain guide to hold the chain on the chainwheel, which was just a piece of bent metal fixed to the seat tube. £7 for the frame clamp, 10 minutes to drill and bend the metal strip and a few goes at adjusting the bend until it was right.

thank you , you made some good points there
Could you what the stock firmware like on
48v TSDZ2/B as a have been redding up that level 1/2 not much good but 3/4 does make light peddling gets you up to speed and effortless for hills , Plus the battery last long on mid drives a been told

TSDZ8 is nearly same price as TSDZ2 /B but a been told TSDZ2/B lighter and blend in more
With the bike but what’s the stock firmware
Like for these two motors are there ok to use
Stright out the box , as 15 half stone ??

 

[Michael 2025]

I've got a BBS02 conversion and it works well although rated at 750W so not UK or EU legal. I also converted an old Gary Fisher mountain bike for my sister using the Woosh TSDZ8 48v (rated at 250W) it's very powerful. It does fit 68mm and 73mm bottom brackets, but you need to be careful with the chainstay. There is a template you can cut out and check

I originally fitted a washer to give clearance of the motor from the frame, but then there wasn't enough thread with a 73mm bottom bracket to fit the locknut, so I made some "alterations" to the chainstay with a hammer and hacksaw and it fitted great, didn't need the spacing washer and I could fit the locknut. Make sure you tighten the motor very tight before fitting the locknut

E-Bike for Coast to Coast ride

If the outer part of the puller won't screw into the crank arm then, yes you need a different puller. When you've got the right puller don't forget to make sure the inner part is well unscrewed before you screw the outer part fully into the crank arm. If you don't do that the outer will only...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

Thank you there lot off ppl recommend these
As there been around lot longer what’s the stock
Firmware like for these as it’s very hard to get UART now so you can’t customise the firmware it’s all CAN bus protocol

 

[saneagle]

thank you , you made some good points there
Could you what the stock firmware like on
48v TSDZ2/B as a have been redding up that level 1/2 not much good but 3/4 does make light peddling gets you up to speed and effortless for hills , Plus the battery last long on mid drives a been told

I didn't find a reason to change the stock firmware. The bike works fine as it is, though the OSF allows you to increase the power a bit, which might be useful to some, but if that's what you want, it would be better and easier to get the TSDZ8, which is designed for higher power.

The only way you get a battery to last longer on any bike is by pedalling harder. There is no magic in a mid-drive. Some people try to claim that mid-drives are more efficient, but the tests I did showed that there isn't any difference. The myth probably comes from the fact that most mid-drives have torque sensors, which prevent you from lazy pedalling.

Any gains that mid-drives might make from being able to keep close to optimum RPM are cancelled out by the 5% losses in the drive system. That 5% loss is constant, while as a 230 rpm hub-motor running at 15mph in a 29" wheel will have zero losses, and on a long commute, that's where it'll be most of the time, unless you're riding in a city.

Having said all that, efficiency isn't really something to worry about. A 20Ah 48v battery should be able to deal with your commute at full power. What difference would it make if something else can go further with the same battery, even if it could?

 

[AndyBike]

the only thing put me off mid drives is if chain snaps but was thinking if carry quick link and spare chain that should sort me problem
and Slow down before charge gear .

It's never going to be an issue, unless you fail to look after the chain, oil(+wipe clean after) replace when worn etc.
But as to snapping I'd say unlikely. Its a rare thing and certainly not limited to mid drives.
No of gears would also play a part. a big chunky 8spd chain is more robust that a 12spd chain that needs to be a bit thinner.

and Slow down before charge gear .

You dont need to slow down. Just take the weight off the pedals
Obviously trying to storm up a steep hill and change gear halfway up is going to put a lot of strain on the drivetrain, but again if you unload/pause then change, it will change fine without any issue.


pssst.... mid drives are better than hub drives

 

[saneagle]

pssst.... mid drives are better than hub drives

Mid-drives are shite. Hub-motors are the only sensible solution for a commuter.

Why do you think Soundwave has a mid-drive - and he likes it? Is it anything to do with his life-style? Are you afflicted in the same way? Think about how people, who stop taking mind altering drugs, can come back to reality and rational thought. There's always hope.