broken cable help

[billyboya]

Was the bolt inserted ?
Make one up out steel or buy one from Erider.

No I have never had a bolt in that hole near dropout for that black torque washer. I take it then you are a engineer, as no way can I make one of those. I will ask erider. But cant a similar thing do same job

 

[Nealh]

A bolt has to be fitted to stop the axls and TA rotating, the torque washer is only a locator to align the axle up, it is obvious now the axel tried to rotate tearing the motor cable. A bolt in that TA and secured to the drop out tapped hole would have prevented it occurring.

 

[Nealh]

I expect it is a m6 threaded hole so try an m6 bolt.

 

[Nealh]

No I have never had a bolt in that hole near dropout for that black torque washer. I take it then you are a engineer, as no way can I make one of those. I will ask erider. But cant a similar thing do same job

Yes if you can find one for a horizontal drop out, if not find a local engineering firm to see if they can make one from your example.

 

[billyboya]

Yes if you can find one for a horizontal drop out, if not find a local engineering firm to see if they can make one from your example.

its about 8cm long that washer, I will see what I have in tool box if not ask erider or like you said a place where i can get one


I am extremely grateful for the help you all giving,

 

[Nealh]

It's not a washer, it is a torque arm. It is a engineering difference and term.

 

[billyboya]

It's not a washer, it is a torque arm. It is a engineering difference and term.

Sorry I meant torque arm not washer.

"We all make mistakes, as the hedgehog said to the wire brush"

 

[Gliggsy]

Sorry I meant torque arm not washer.

"We all make mistakes, as the hedgehog said to the wire brush"

That wire brush is wearing thin now

 

[billyboya]

That wire brush is wearing thin now

Nar it will never wear thin lol

 

[billyboya]

It's not a washer, it is a torque arm. It is a engineering difference and term.

I’m still bit amazed how that axle managed to twist the cable as it had a anti rotation washer, on axle plus also the torque washer too which was tied with cable tie as well

But it must have been like you said

 

[wheeliepete]

I’m still bit amazed how that axle managed to twist the cable as it had a anti rotation washer, on axle plus also the torque washer too which was tied with cable tie as well

But it must have been like you said

The axle twisted because the bolt was missing, so the torque washer was not attached to the dropout. Remove that grommet from the cable, it doesn't help and will make refitting the wheel more difficult. Make sure the cable points downwards when you fit the wheel and leave a loop before you cable tie it to the frame, this helps keep water out of the motor. You need another torque arm on the other side, otherwise you run the risk of snapping the axle on a heavy bike like yours. If your axle measures 14mm, one of these will do the job, but you will need to drill out 1 hole to 6mm to bolt to the frame and a few washers.

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[Nealh]

I didn't mention that the torque washer was ineffective as once it was known the Torque arm bolt was never fitted, the rotation would have been inevitable and obvious.

 

[billyboya]

The axle twisted because the bolt was missing, so the torque washer was not attached to the dropout. Remove that grommet from the cable, it doesn't help and will make refitting the wheel more difficult. Make sure the cable points downwards when you fit the wheel and leave a loop before you cable tie it to the frame, this helps keep water out of the motor. You need another torque arm on the other side, otherwise you run the risk of snapping the axle on a heavy bike like yours. If your axle measures 14mm, one of these will do the job, but you will need to drill out 1 hole to 6mm to bolt to the frame and a few washers.

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Oh so you think its a bad idea, having a grommet at top of axle hole, as I thought it would help cable






I have asked Erider for another torque washer like this one, as I only have 1 on cable side, they said they will check in stock if they have any, But do you think its best to get the torque ones you said

and how do you fit those, as I can see what part go onto axle the square bit but what's other piece for or go. can you do a diagram

when you fit the wheel and leave a loop before you cable tie it to the frame,

I don't understand how do you mean leave a loop

the square part of axle takes a 10mm spanner so would axle be about 12mm

 

[billyboya]

I didn't mention that the torque washer was ineffective as once it was known the Torque arm bolt was never fitted, the rotation would have been inevitable and obvious.

But on cable side I did have that black torque washer tied with a cable tie in the hole plus had also a anti rotation washer too. But obvious nothing on opp side of axle so would that have caused all this

 

[wheeliepete]

I have asked Erider for another torque washer like this one, as I only have 1 on cable side, they said they will check in stock if they have any, But do you think its best to get the torque ones you said

If Erider have one, then go for that, you also need a anti rotation washer to go with it.

I don't understand how do you mean leave a loop

Some slack in the cable, hanging a couple of inches below the axle.

the square part of axle takes a 10mm spanner so would axle be about 12mm

The axle size is across the threads, if a 14mm spanner fits, then it's 14mm.

But on cable side I did have that black torque washer tied with a cable tie in the hole plus had also a anti rotation washer too. But obvious nothing on opp side of axle so would that have caused all this

A cable tie is not a suitable replacement for a bolt, was it still there when you inspected the bike after breakdown?

 

[billyboya]

If Erider have one, then go for that, you also need a anti rotation washer to go with it.

Yes they said they will check there stock, Ive already got the bolts for them

Some slack in the cable, hanging a couple of inches below the axle.

ok I'm with you now so you say its best not to have that grommet at top of cable, do this look better now

A cable tie is not a suitable replacement for a bolt, was it still there when you inspected the bike after breakdown?

To be honest I cant remember now

 

[wheeliepete]

ok I'm with you now so you say its best not to have that grommet at top of cable, do this look better now

Not really, if you look at the axle where the cable exits, you will see the rounded chamfer, which is designed to let the cable sit at a nice gentle angle and avoid nasty kinks, which can cause damage. If you want to cable tie the cable, put 1 or 2 on the inside of motor where it comes out of the axle. This will avoid putting strain on your solder joints if the cable is pulled from the outside. a blob of grease/silicon on the outside after the motor is fitted will prevent water ingress.

 

[billyboya]

Not really, if you look at the axle where the cable exits, you will see the rounded chamfer, which is designed to let the cable sit at a nice gentle angle and avoid nasty kinks, which can cause damage. If you want to cable tie the cable, put 1 or 2 on the inside of motor where it comes out of the axle. This will avoid putting strain on your solder joints if the cable is pulled from the outside. a blob of grease/silicon on the outside after the motor is fitted will prevent water ingress.

ok I will remove that tie then. yes I have cable tied inside motor wires. I will also like you said leave a loop at axle end then just cable tie to frame. yes also I have added a blob of grease/silicon to outsides of motor case

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[Scruffydroid]

In post #3 the 3rd and 4th photographs both show significant damage to the threads on the fixed axle.

I doubt that you will be able to tighten the nuts sufficiently, no matter how many locking washers, torque arms and split washers you put on, in order to stop the torque twisting the wheel out of the dropouts.

You might get lucky with a thread restorer nut, or a thread file. Don't be tempted to use titanium nuts, stay with steel.

Clean up the rust, repeat, clean up the rust and smear a very very thin layer of waterproof grease with your finger on the exposed surfaces.

Good luck.

 

[billyboya]

In post #3 the 3rd and 4th photographs both show significant damage to the threads on the fixed axle.

I doubt that you will be able to tighten the nuts sufficiently, no matter how many locking washers, torque arms and split washers you put on, in order to stop the torque twisting the wheel out of the dropouts.

You might get lucky with a thread restorer nut, or a thread file. Don't be tempted to use titanium nuts, stay with steel.

Clean up the rust, repeat, clean up the rust and smear a very very thin layer of waterproof grease with your finger on the exposed surfaces.

Good luck.

Hi would this do to clean threads, as I dont have any choice to do it another way. I believe the axle is 14mm

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