broken cable help

[Nealh]

You was nearly there with the original repair so will have to try again.

For mosfets try and drain them of the voltage for a better reading, disconnect the controller from the battery and then to touch the controller Black v- & Red v+ together to drain the the voltage. This will give a brief spark but won't do any damage.

Double check the Green mosfet that gave 8 ohms reading and use the 20 ohm scale.
If it still reads low it may be worth replacing it. Also do check them again against the Red wire.

 

[billyboya]

The mosfets don't give a voltage reading, the reading is ohms resistance.
The one at 8 ohms is quite low and is weaker then the other two it should be nearer to 9.7 ohms.

The Halls will have an identifier number on them, I can't read them as the pic is of poor resolution when blown up. Use a mag glass to red them.

So do you think the green mosfet is bad and needs replacing, as I didnt think I would need to remove controller and open it.

I cant read the hall sensors identifier numbers as nothing on them, probably, rubbed off when i cleaned the motor. But I have ordered 3 from where you said, just hope they same as I have.

 

[billyboya]

The Green/Yellow phase wires look fried to me and looks like the Green has overheated and the core visible.

The Halls, one has to solder the correct leg and check they are orientated right as they only fit one one with bevelled edge. Use the white sheath to insulate the legs when soldered.

No what you thought was fried is just black liquid installation tape




What is that white stuff in circles. as it seems like some strong paste

 

[billyboya]

You was nearly there with the original repair so will have to try again.

For mosfets try and drain them of the voltage for a better reading, disconnect the controller from the battery and then to touch the controller Black v- & Red v+ together to drain the the voltage. This will give a brief spark but won't do any damage.

Double check the Green mosfet that gave 8 ohms reading and use the 20 ohm scale.
If it still reads low it may be worth replacing it. Also do check them again against the Red wire.

then to touch the controller Black v- & Red v+ together to drain the the voltage. This will give a brief spark
yes I have had this happen before made me jump as thought i had blown something

ok will do that and get back to you

 

[billyboya]

Im a bit lost as you say disconnect the controller from the battery, But I have not had battery connected at all for these tests, as you said no power. Ive just been testing wires not even connected to battery. But I just did touch thick red and thick black wires on controller together, but no spark. and retested them again

no power thick blck wire on controller

green= 08.11v

no power thick red wire on controller


green=17.76v

 

[Nealh]

A strong heat resistant double sided tape to ensure the Hall pcb stays attached to the insulation barrier beneath it.

 

[Nealh]

Im a bit lost as you say disconnect the controller from the battery, But I have not had battery connected at all for these tests, as you said no power. Ive just been testing wires not even connected to battery. But I just did touch thick red and thick black wires on controller together, but no spark. and retested them again

no power thick blck wire on controller

green= 08.11v

no power thick red wire on controller


green=17.76v

I don't know why you keep insisting of writing up as a voltage test is a resistance test and should be denoted as such by writing ohms or inserting .

 

[Nealh]

I would replace the Green mosfet as it is a weak link and may thermally cut out.

 

[billyboya]

I don't know why you keep insisting of writing up as a voltage test is a resistance test and should be denoted as such by writing ohms or inserting .View attachment 45632

No you getting me wrong, I just said when you quoted about disconnect the battery, was just letting you know I never have battery connected anyway.

 

[billyboya]

A strong heat resistant double sided tape to ensure the Hall pcb stays attached to the insulation barrier beneath it.

I maybe able to solder in the 3 hall sensors by just leaving that white stuff there, as it seems very hard to remove and dont want to crack that board.

 

[billyboya]

I would replace the Green mosfet as it is a weak link and may thermally cut out.

Ok so what mosfet do I get or will I have to open controller 1st to check. as I believe there are 6 in all 2 of each - and +

 

[billyboya]

Ok I have now opened the controller, and it seems I was wrong its not 6 mosfets, its 9 it seems 3 for each phase colour. I have looked at 1 and it has on it. so what do I order. the green wire is C then

CS48N78
45195 33S

 

[billyboya]

Well it seems I have made a mistake with checking the mosfets, as now I have removed controller from moped and retested the phase wires its seems its all ok

so it seems the cable just fried 2 hall sensors. btw will those ones I ordered same as you said fit into those slots on motor ok and do they need to be Loctite glued in

thick black wire from controller + green = 9.79 ohms



thick black wire from controller + blue 9.81 ohms



thick black wire from controller + yellow 9.79 ohms





thick red wire from controller + green = 19.48 ohms



thick red wire from controller + blue = 19.46 ohms



thick red wire from controller + yellow = 19.48 ohms

 

[Nealh]

Good, the mosfet's are consistent.

 

[billyboya]

Good, the mosfet's are consistent.

Yes it seems I removed the test probes too quick, as numbers was still going up, so I thought best to wait until they slowed down

Why is there 9 mosfets, do that mean 3 for each phase wire then, and how do you tell which are + and - Im just curious nice to learn stuff


Also I have ordered 3 of those hall sensors as you said. will they be same as mine, and are they stuck in slots with glue. also do they go in slots with the writing facing you.

I will have to be very careful how I solder the legs in as they mustn't touch, well only a small amount of solder on each leg it seems

Btw what did you say that white liquid is called what sets very hard. as I will probably put some over the wires before I close motor case

God its so hard to get the 2 end sensors out middle one was ok as I could push that one easy out. is there a special way to get them out probably a sharp pointed needle




there is some here too.

 

[Nealh]

You can glue them in.
The Halls only fit one way correctly that's why they and the slot for them have a bevelled edge which means the writing is usually on the face showing outwards.

 

[billyboya]

its so hard to remove them, some of the legs have even broke off, and lost the tubes for some. but its hard DE soldering them too I have not received new ones yet. will they be same as I have

 

[Nealh]

The Halls should have a number identifier on them, one will have to use a mag glass to see this number.
The ss41F are pretty standard type to use on hub motors, hopefully they will be good for yours but best try to check the number on them.

 

[billyboya]

The Halls should have a number identifier on them, one will have to use a mag glass to see this number.
The ss41F are pretty standard type to use on hub motors, hopefully they will be good for yours but best try to check the number on them.

Well no way do they have a number on them, as I would say they been there from new, and numbers rubbed off. the middle one was so easy to lift up but god knows how I am going to remove the end 2. as i just tried far right one and its even lifting up the metal of magnets. well if it is magnet, but I think that's on the wheel inner. I hope new ones have installation plastic on the legs, as I only have 5 so far probably 8 once i get middle one off the circuit board, so hard when trying to de solder. I do have a suction tube but that wont take it all. do you think that this board will still be ok









Getting there I'm glad now I bought mini drill and bits. IE grinder etc as removing old sensors slowly I'm using the middle one as a guide if that fits its all cleaned out ok of slot, the middle one was easy to remove, but it seems the end 2 are glued in

 

[guerney]

Acetone dissolves some glues, including superglue... but I'd be extremely careful trying it! It strips paints and protective coatings! Using acetone on circuit boards may dissolve them, but to get those components out of metal - just dab with a cotton bud and a small amount of acetone, and see if it loosens up? You might have to dab small areas and leave them for a few minutes, repeat a few times. Maybe worth a go?