hi all hoping to get some advise on a problem i have with my e-bike kit ,whilst riding home last night the motor developed like a 'whining noise ' best described when your brake shoes aren't set properly on the rims there was also a loss of power ,getting the bike home i checked all the wiring and connections and all were OK a then unplugged the hall sensor wires (as motor will run without) and this made the problem worst having a identical spare controller i swapped it over and again it made the same noise the motor does run on the stand using pedal sensor but when the throttle is operated it makes this nose again and the motor turns very slowly , under load again motor runs but there is very little power along with this noise any suggestions? the kit is a BMS battery Q100 350w kit with with a mosfet 450w controller any advise appreciated .
BMS MOTOR problem
- Thread starter ade
- Start date
D
Deleted member 4366
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The 450w controller (KU93) is set to 22 amps, which is too much for that motor. I'd say 18 amps is a safe max., so there's a strong possibility of stripped gears, burnt windings or blown hall sensors. I'm going to guess it's the gears without hearing the noise.
Taking the easy one first. When you unplugged the hall sensors, did you completely switch off the controller at the battery before attempting to run sensorless, which is necessary to re-configure it for running sensorless? If not, try it. WAit about 30 secs to make sure it's completely de-powered before switching on again.
If that doesn't do it, then you will have to open the motor, which is very straight-forward.: Remove the three little screws; Screw in two or three longer ones to the same depth as the short ones were; lever the screws round in an anti-clockwise direction to unscrew the side-plate. Then all will be revealed. If the gears are damaged, get a new motor (and KU63 controller while you're at it), and swap the motor cores. You can still use your existing wheel and hub, so wheel-building is not necessary.
I expect it went quite well with that controller while it lasted?
Edit: if it's a rear motor, the plate might come unscrewed with the free-wheel remover tool. Otherwise, you've got to get the free-wheel off first to get at the three screws. The three screws hold the clutch to the side-plate and are don't stop the side-plate from unscrewing. The only reason for removing them is that they give a handy location to lever the plate round.
Taking the easy one first. When you unplugged the hall sensors, did you completely switch off the controller at the battery before attempting to run sensorless, which is necessary to re-configure it for running sensorless? If not, try it. WAit about 30 secs to make sure it's completely de-powered before switching on again.
If that doesn't do it, then you will have to open the motor, which is very straight-forward.: Remove the three little screws; Screw in two or three longer ones to the same depth as the short ones were; lever the screws round in an anti-clockwise direction to unscrew the side-plate. Then all will be revealed. If the gears are damaged, get a new motor (and KU63 controller while you're at it), and swap the motor cores. You can still use your existing wheel and hub, so wheel-building is not necessary.
I expect it went quite well with that controller while it lasted?
Edit: if it's a rear motor, the plate might come unscrewed with the free-wheel remover tool. Otherwise, you've got to get the free-wheel off first to get at the three screws. The three screws hold the clutch to the side-plate and are don't stop the side-plate from unscrewing. The only reason for removing them is that they give a handy location to lever the plate round.
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looking at the cost of a new motor it might be as well to buy a new kit @ £87:00 which is a 400-500w kit using the same controller as i have, all i wanted was a bit more torque for hill climb. I guess i should had stuck to the original plan and bought the bafang 350w kit instead !
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
Don't give up yet. It might be something simple.
Your price for the kit is too low. A single kit including shipping from Greenbikekit is £128, which is an absolute bargain. BMSBattery are about £160 by the time you add on the extra shipping cost that they come up with when they're ready to ship. I just bought two kits and two motors from Greenbikekit for £351, so if you buy in quantity, you get closer to your price.
If you use the KU63 controller and solder about half the shunt, that gives a bit more hill-climbing than the average ready-made 250w bike, but for serious hill-climbing you need either the BPM or twin Q100s. Did you see my Rocky Mountain build? I think that two Q100s is better than a single BPM if you don't want to go too fast. I'm going to have another go with the high-speed version of the Q100 to see if t still cllimbs well enough to compete performancewise with a BPM.
Your price for the kit is too low. A single kit including shipping from Greenbikekit is £128, which is an absolute bargain. BMSBattery are about £160 by the time you add on the extra shipping cost that they come up with when they're ready to ship. I just bought two kits and two motors from Greenbikekit for £351, so if you buy in quantity, you get closer to your price.
If you use the KU63 controller and solder about half the shunt, that gives a bit more hill-climbing than the average ready-made 250w bike, but for serious hill-climbing you need either the BPM or twin Q100s. Did you see my Rocky Mountain build? I think that two Q100s is better than a single BPM if you don't want to go too fast. I'm going to have another go with the high-speed version of the Q100 to see if t still cllimbs well enough to compete performancewise with a BPM.
speed was never the issue i just needed a bit more on the hills nothing serious , using the controller supplied with the motor was no better than the Bafang 8fun i use on my hybrid . i think i will look towards getting the BPM kit later on meanwhile i'll open up the Q100 and let you know if there is anything obvious i only ran it for about 8 miles .
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
it ran perfect until i was around a mile from home , I've tried opening the motor casing but its not having any of it , all its doing is bending the screws I'm assuming it unscrews much like a angle grinder disc using a pin spanner only instead the screws are the pins
I don't have experience with your motor Ade but some have a very small grub screw which is screwed in from the outside of the motor to lock the end plate in position when screwed up.
Check around the circumference of the motor body on the end plate side for a small hole.
They usually are allen key type screws and require a non standard 1.6mm A/F (across flats) allen key.
The normal 1.5mm A/F found in standard sets will round off the screw.
I buy all my fixings and keys from these people:
Hex Keys keys
Check around the circumference of the motor body on the end plate side for a small hole.
They usually are allen key type screws and require a non standard 1.6mm A/F (across flats) allen key.
The normal 1.5mm A/F found in standard sets will round off the screw.
I buy all my fixings and keys from these people:
Hex Keys keys
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
The rear motor has no grub screws and is a right hand thread - look at the picture!. I haven't dismantled a front one, but left hand thread would be logical from a function point of view, but RH from a production point of view, so could be either.
The proper tool will be a ring with three prongs and an arm to turn it.
When I opened my first one, it was a bit tight, so I managed to clamp two of the screws in a vice and then turned the wheel. This stops the screws from leaning over.
Another thing that'll probably work is to place a drift on the bottom of one screw and knock it round with a hammer. Once it starts to turn, the rest is easy. I opened one by using a drift directly on the countersunk hole, but obviously it left a few marks afterwards.
The proper tool will be a ring with three prongs and an arm to turn it.
When I opened my first one, it was a bit tight, so I managed to clamp two of the screws in a vice and then turned the wheel. This stops the screws from leaning over.
Another thing that'll probably work is to place a drift on the bottom of one screw and knock it round with a hammer. Once it starts to turn, the rest is easy. I opened one by using a drift directly on the countersunk hole, but obviously it left a few marks afterwards.
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managed to get cover off using a rubber mallet and vice , i cannot see anything noticeably wrong inside gearing's look OK there is some slight carbon marks on the windings other than that all looks good i'll take this as being a costly learning exercise as they say you learn from your mistakes and i know better for next time thanks for all your input especially d8veh
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