Bike not working after battery replacement...Help please !!

[Deleted member 4366]

Right. Just an update.

I have been in touch with the supplier of the controller unit and they have provided details of the wiring. Herewith attached is an image of this which may be useful to someone in the future

I do however, have some questions.

1) There doesn't appear to be any connections for my handlebar displayer,
which on my original controller had an Orange & Black wire?
2) These doesn't seem to be a PAS connection?
3) There doesn't appear to be any handlebar brake connections?
4) What are High Battery & Low Battery brakes?
5) What is 1 + 1 power line?

Any further comments would be greatly appreciated before I continue further

1 If you mean the thing with LEDs that shows the battery charge, you connect the orange to the battery positive or the meter line and the black to any ground.
2 1+ 1 is the PAS
3 Low brake is the brake connector. The two wire brakes are just a switch so you can connect the wires either way round
4. Ignore the high brake connector. It connects in a different way.
5. PAS

The three speed connector can give a bit more speed if you want it. Leave it unconnected for normal operation. When you connect the middle to one of the others, you get restricted speed. To the other one, you get a slight speed boost. It causes the controller to change the timing slightly so that it reduces resistance. Don't leave it like that at low speed. Normally, you fit a three position handlebar switch on that connector.

You have self-learning wires, like I thought. Leave them disconnected now that it's running correctly.

 

[chris301up]

Thanks d8veh for the information

I am currently away on holiday at the moment so am unable to carry out any further work on the wiring

Before I went away I connected the High Brake connections to my handlebar brake levers, as these had two coresponding wires and these seem to work absolutely fine. I notice the Low Brake had only one wire, so assumed, correctly or not, that this was possibly for a foot brake, maybe on a scooter?

I connected the Orange & Black wire to the battery level indicator and that also seems to work fine.

I just have to sort the PAS now so upon myturn will try the 1 + 1 wiring and go from there

Any further comments in the meantime will be appreciated

 

[chris301up]

I'm finally back from holiday and have been trying to sort the PAS wiring, but am getting nowhere. I have tried different variations of the 1 + 1 wiring but don't appear to be getting anything when turning the crank.

Am I missing something?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Did you try turning the pedals backwards?

 

[chris301up]

No I haven't. I have given up for today so will try again tomorrow.

Am I correct in thinking that the motor should 'kick in' when turning the pedals without using the throttle?

May seem like a silly question but I don't think I have ever knowingly used this feature in the past

 

[chris301up]

Right. I have spent several hours today trying to sort the PAS wiring, but still no luck. I have tried many different combinations of wiring, colours and connections and even tried turning the rear wheel backwards, but nothing.

I then thought I'd have a closer look at the PAS sensor itself and notice that the sensor is not aligned with the holes in the ring. I have never really used this feature before, and it's only because I have a new controller that thought I'd make an effort to wire this whilst I can.

As far as I am aware the sensor is exactly as it was when I purchased the bike but I would have thought the sensor and the holes would align with each other? Am I correct in thinking this? If so, I may just not bother to continue with this wiring and leave it disconnected.

Anyone have any comments?

 

[Nealh]

All your effort deserves success.

• The 1+1/pas should theoretically be black to black , red to red and signal green to blue and should operate independently of the throttle.
• Disconnect your brake cut off as you connected the hi brake instead of the low brake.
• Disconnect the throttle to eliminate conflict.
• If then the pas works then reconnect throttle and check operation of pas and throttle.
• Connect the low brake wire as it is stated on your controller.
• I have a low brake controller on my Big Bear, controller has 1 wire brake cable has 2.
• The sensor should be 1 - 5 mm away from the magnet ring and may have a tiny red light that pulses as it senses each magnet.
• Did you try reversing the magnet disc as some are handed also rotate the cranks back wards with the disc as it is and in the reversed position.
• If you do get the pas to work and only in reverse you can move the sensor 180 degrees to see if that changes the direction also or you may have to move the pas to the opposite crank.
• Fiddling about with pas is best done with the bike upside down or on a bike work stand.

 

[chris301up]

Hi Nelth.

Thanks for the further information. This is the sort of information that I am looking for which may just sort the issue? I have actually removed the controller from the bike for the moment and will re-install it without the brakes and throttle connected and go from there.

The PAS sensor wiring on my bike is Yellow, Blue and Red - with a White stripe, so am finding it a bit of a problem identifying which is power, negative and signal.

I haven't tried removing the magnetic disc yet, only tried tuning the crank backwards, and that didn't achieve anything. Possibly because the other wiring is was still connected? I was just concerned the sensor doesn't seem to align correctly with the disc. I will examine this further later today and post any results.

 

[Nealh]

Re your sensor wiring red should be positive , yellow /ground and blue/ signal. Before removing/ flipping the magnet disc, move the sensor 180 degrees first if possible to see if that works. If it is the type held by a small Philips screw then it only takes a second or two, to make life easier it is easier to hold the sensor manually to get position/contact whilst rotating the cranks and then to reverse the sensor direction to test for opposite operation then once you have it right finally fix in situ.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Your PAS has red black and blue on the controller side and red blue and yellow on the sensor side. Connect red to red, black to yellow and blue to blue. Not all PAS sensors are compatible with all controllers. They have different patterns of magnets in, some pulse and some switch on then off. If yours has square magnets, it's probably not compatible.

You must test it. Between red and black or yellow. You must have 5v. Between black or yellow and blue. You should see 5v going on each time a magnet passes. If it goes on when one magnet passes, then off when the next one goes past, let us know.

The sensor has to line up with the magnets, not the holes.

 

[Deleted member 18370]

Hi

Yes. I have sent them a couple of emails to see what they say

I have even been to our local Chinese take away, but the symbols on the packaging are in a different language format for them to translate.

They will be speaking and reading in Cantonese. You need a Mandarin speaker.

 

[chris301up]

Right. I think, with all of your kind help, I have finally cracked it ??

After spending some time with the wiring and getting nowhere I thought I take another look at the pedal assist sensor, and sure enough it wasn't lining up correctly with the holes and/or magnets.

Not having access to a puller, I was unable to remove the crank to access the mounting bracket, but managed successfully to bend it back to where it aligned correctly with the magnets.

The problem then was that the sensor was simply too far away from the magnet ring to work, so I then forced the plastic ring along the crank spindle and as close to the sensor as I could, and bingo - IT WORKS !!

My only issue now is that I will have to remove the excess wiring so that I can hopefully get this bigger controller and 'bunch of spaghetti' into the housing at the rear of the battery pack. This should be fun !!

Thank you all for your help

 

[Nealh]

Yay success .
Now be a good lad , I/we don't want to here you say again you will leave it out for the tatters !!!

 

[chris301up]

Hi guys

I have taken the bike out for a spin this evening, and although it appears to be working fine, there are now some awful noises coming from what I think is the controller, especially when pulling away from a standstill. Once she's up and running, no further noises. Any ideas please !!!

 

[anotherkiwi]

It is a square wave controller I am guessing? You are pulling full Amps and that is the noise it makes at full Amps. My sine wave controller makes knocking noises in assistance level 5 you learn to live with these things

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Did you disconnect the self-learning wires?

 

[chris301up]

Did you disconnect the self-learning wires?

Yes. Self-learning wires disconnected. It seems to have settled down now, so perhaps the controller was just sorting itself out? Just guessing though !