Bike not working after battery replacement...Help please !!
- Thread starter chris301up
- Start date
As mentioned in an earlier post I did test the hall sensors with a multi-meter, and by rotating the rear wheel the voltage fluctuated between 4.5 volts and 0 volts on each which indicates they are all good. Correct?
Considering that the only thing you have done is fit a new battery and that there is an 'Intelligent Controller' fitted I am still guessing that somehow the controller has unlearnt the Hall sensor commands. Maybe the wheel was moved a little when the battery was disconnected. Somewhere in the vast wealth of information on ES someone suggested unplugging the 5 hall wires and trying to run the wheel sensorless (you might have to spin it first). Then battery off reconnect the Hall wire plug and voila it worked again...
D
Deleted member 4366
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The grey wires are one of: speed limit, reverse, self-learning. When you connect them, it should be obvious if they're on of the first two, so connect them to find out.
Lets assume that they're self-learning. Disconnect the battery, connect the grey wires, get the motor going, switch off and disconnect the grey wires. See if that fixes it.
Lets assume that they're self-learning. Disconnect the battery, connect the grey wires, get the motor going, switch off and disconnect the grey wires. See if that fixes it.
I have tried connecting they Grey wires and the only thing that happens is that the speed of the rear wheel decreases, so assume it's a 'speed limit' circuit.
I just disconnected the hall sensor wiring and, just as I thought, nothing. It obviously won't run without this circuit. Once reconnected, just the same, turn the rear wheel backwards and eventually it 'kicks in' and away it goes normally.
I suppose it may be a good idea to invest in a cheap replacement controller unit just to see if that sorts the issue?
I just disconnected the hall sensor wiring and, just as I thought, nothing. It obviously won't run without this circuit. Once reconnected, just the same, turn the rear wheel backwards and eventually it 'kicks in' and away it goes normally.
I suppose it may be a good idea to invest in a cheap replacement controller unit just to see if that sorts the issue?
I have now given up on trying to fix the problem that I have left the bike at the bottom of the drive in the hope some local 'tatters' will take it for scrap
If someone has any further ideas before this happens please let me know and I'll give it another go !!
If someone has any further ideas before this happens please let me know and I'll give it another go !!
Right. After avoiding the problem all day I recovered the bike from the bottom of the drive before the scrap men came and tried again, but still no luck. In the meantime I have ordered a cheap controller through Ebay and will see if this makes any difference?
When the part arrives I am thinking of removing all the wiring and ancillary components from the bike to see if I can get the thing to work before reassembly.
When the part arrives I am thinking of removing all the wiring and ancillary components from the bike to see if I can get the thing to work before reassembly.
Just an update. Have been having another go at it today and, by chance, noticed that the hall sensor check via the green, yellow & blue wires will only work when rotating the wheel backwards. I can confirm that all sensors record a voltage of around 4.5 volts dropping to zero. Nothing registers on the muli-meter when rotating the wheel forwards.
I have no idea know if this is correct, or not, but comments would be really useful. I was thinking that perhaps the controller is reversed somehow, so thought I try reversing it, as per numerous posts, but nothing seems to work.
I have had another crazy thought. What about if the new battery has come with the power wires swapped the wrong way? i.e Red to Black and Black to Red. I have obviously connected the wiring positive to positive and negative to negative, as I'm sure anyone else would do? Would this cause the problem do you think or just 'blow' the controller?
Am tempted to swap them over to see what happens? Got nothing to loose I suppose? I have already left the damn thing out for the scrap man on one occasion.!!
Mmmmmmmm........????
I have no idea know if this is correct, or not, but comments would be really useful. I was thinking that perhaps the controller is reversed somehow, so thought I try reversing it, as per numerous posts, but nothing seems to work.
I have had another crazy thought. What about if the new battery has come with the power wires swapped the wrong way? i.e Red to Black and Black to Red. I have obviously connected the wiring positive to positive and negative to negative, as I'm sure anyone else would do? Would this cause the problem do you think or just 'blow' the controller?
Am tempted to swap them over to see what happens? Got nothing to loose I suppose? I have already left the damn thing out for the scrap man on one occasion.!!
Mmmmmmmm........????
D
Deleted member 4366
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The hall sensors only switch when you rotate the wheel backwards because there's a clutch (free-wheel) in the motor, so it doesn't turn when you push the wheel forwards.
Do not reverse the battery connections. If you do, there'll be a big bang, the shunt will vaporise followed by the main capacitor exploding and emitting stinky smoke, then your controller will be no more a controller.
Do not reverse the battery connections. If you do, there'll be a big bang, the shunt will vaporise followed by the main capacitor exploding and emitting stinky smoke, then your controller will be no more a controller.
Thanks for that.
I was just thinking that when I was checking the voltages across the hall sensors then surely I should get a reading when turning the wheel forward also? That's not correct then?
I did check the magnet by the crank but, has I expected, made no difference whatsoever.
I did also notice earlier that when the wheel finally begins to operate there is some strange and horrible noises from the battery pack, particularly when rotating the wheel backwards and just before it 'kicks in' and runs forwards. Wondering if just maybe, there could be a fault with the BMS in the replacement battery?
I'm completely at a loss now?
I was just thinking that when I was checking the voltages across the hall sensors then surely I should get a reading when turning the wheel forward also? That's not correct then?
I did check the magnet by the crank but, has I expected, made no difference whatsoever.
I did also notice earlier that when the wheel finally begins to operate there is some strange and horrible noises from the battery pack, particularly when rotating the wheel backwards and just before it 'kicks in' and runs forwards. Wondering if just maybe, there could be a fault with the BMS in the replacement battery?
I'm completely at a loss now?
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
The problem is the timing from the controller. It's possible that you've blown a mosfet in the controller, otherwise you've got a faulty connection on a phase wire, or your motor wire is damaged. When the controller's cpu fires the mosfets in the correct sequence, but the pulses don't arrive at the right time, the current goes right up, which will cause the BMS over-current to trip. That's what you can hear.
Even if a mosfet wasn't blown, running the motor when it can't turn most likely will blow one. It could be that you had a bad connection, but when you tried to run it like that, you blew a mosfet. Now you've fixed the bad connection but you're left with the consequential damage.
You should never allow full-throttle on a motor that won't run properly.
Even if a mosfet wasn't blown, running the motor when it can't turn most likely will blow one. It could be that you had a bad connection, but when you tried to run it like that, you blew a mosfet. Now you've fixed the bad connection but you're left with the consequential damage.
You should never allow full-throttle on a motor that won't run properly.
Thanks for the information d8veh
I have ordered a cheap controller through Ebay, so will wait for that to arrive and see what happens from there. Hopefully that will rectify the problem?
I must say with my luck I won't hold my breath !!
Thanks again
I have ordered a cheap controller through Ebay, so will wait for that to arrive and see what happens from there. Hopefully that will rectify the problem?
I must say with my luck I won't hold my breath !!
Thanks again
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
Just an update.
I have today received the new controller, fitted it and nothing.
The new controller wiring was completely different, except for the motor and power connections, and the instructions were only in Chinese. I have therefore had to to guesstimate the wiring based upon my old controller, but nothing.
The connectors are totally different so have had to use choc blocks to make my connections. I have power to the controller and the handlebar displayer illuminates, but I get no voltage readings at either the motor or hall sensors. The connections to hall sensors are not colour coded either. There is Red, Black, which is obviously positive and negative, but there are also three Green so have no idea which goes where?
For your information the controller I have purchased can be found here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262300288190?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I wish I had left it at the bottom of the drive for the scrap man now
I have today received the new controller, fitted it and nothing.
The new controller wiring was completely different, except for the motor and power connections, and the instructions were only in Chinese. I have therefore had to to guesstimate the wiring based upon my old controller, but nothing.
The connectors are totally different so have had to use choc blocks to make my connections. I have power to the controller and the handlebar displayer illuminates, but I get no voltage readings at either the motor or hall sensors. The connections to hall sensors are not colour coded either. There is Red, Black, which is obviously positive and negative, but there are also three Green so have no idea which goes where?
For your information the controller I have purchased can be found here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262300288190?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I wish I had left it at the bottom of the drive for the scrap man now
Last edited:
Hi
Yes. I have sent them a couple of emails to see what they say
I have even been to our local Chinese take away, but the symbols on the packaging are in a different language format for them to translate.
Yes. I have sent them a couple of emails to see what they say
I have even been to our local Chinese take away, but the symbols on the packaging are in a different language format for them to translate.
Have you joined the the ignition wire on the main power connector (thin red) with battery +ve (thick red)?