Big Bear - Motor Gone?

[Nealh]

The mosfet results aren't good esp the 0 result and the 3k, the others at 6k are abit low but that matters not with the other poor results. The controller is a lishui so you will have to buy one from Woosh and it should be a straight swap.
The bullets are a known heat issue and not just on Woosh bikes, the bullets often aren't very tight so worth gingerly crimping the female bullet for a tighter fit when the male is inserted.

 

[saneagle]

By the way, once I'd got everything out of the controller's box, I had a heck of a job getting it all back in again.
Also, there are so many wires to connect, it'll be a daunting task to swap controllers.

It's nothing. If you get stuck with anything, just ask. The only problems are when the connectors don't match, but there are still fairly simple solutions to that.

 

[stever1957]

Thanks again, saneagle.

My wife's old controller was not compatible, so I'll have to wait until I get an email from Andy at Woosh.

Then, I guess the best scenario is buying a new controller from him, and finding that it works

 

[saneagle]

Thanks again, saneagle.

My wife's old controller was not compatible, so I'll have to wait until I get an email from Andy at Woosh.

Then, I guess the best scenario is buying a new controller from him, and finding that it works

That's the easiest solution. If that doesn't work out, there are other solutions, so whatever happens, come back and let us know how you get on.

 

[PC2017]

Shouldn't there be a cautionary note of big CAPS for people dauted by the thought of connecting outer cables, I have personally slipped before and shorted the ground to positive, before going inside I may add. It's a nasty flash at best & I counted myself lucky, slightly brown pants was a relief more than an embarrassment.

Now, & only if I really need to, which is not often as most of the time the motor /cable is at fault. I switch the LCD on without battery a few times whether this method is a sound way to discharge the CAPS or not I will never know due to my extra caution. [Is this a good method?] Please don't forget some folks might not be as savvy as others.

 

[stever1957]

This from Andy at Woosh:

"Error 30 could be one of several things, the display, the controller, or the loom that runs between them. The most likely culprit would be the display. Do you want to send it in and we'll check it out for you?"

I noticed that there are a number of connectors coming out of the controller that are not connected to anything, but I guess that's normal There is also one, with three wires, inside a thick, black cover (see pic) that is unconnected. There is a compatible one coming from the controller, but, when they are connected, nothing happens.

A couple of the connectors from the controller (the metal 'bullet' ones) seem to be rusty. It's difficult to disconnect them, due to the plastic protector over them. Indeed, upon disconnecting the blue one, the wire came out, but I expect I can reconnect it somehow.

 

[saneagle]

Shouldn't there be a cautionary note of big CAPS for people dauted by the thought of connecting outer cables, I have personally slipped before and shorted the ground to positive, before going inside I may add. It's a nasty flash at best & I counted myself lucky, slightly brown pants was a relief more than an embarrassment.

Now, & only if I really need to, which is not often as most of the time the motor /cable is at fault. I switch the LCD on without battery a few times whether this method is a sound way to discharge the CAPS or not I will never know due to my extra caution. [Is this a good method?] Please don't forget some folks might not be as savvy as others.

You must have got a big flash because the battery was still connected. The capacitors don't do that. If they have any charge in them, you just get a snap noise to let you know something happened. You're right, you could discharge them by switching on the LCD, but I'd short the battery wires afterwards anyway, just to make sure.

 

[Woosh]

This from Andy at Woosh:

"Error 30 could be one of several things, the display, the controller, or the loom that runs between them. The most likely culprit would be the display. Do you want to send it in and we'll check it out for you?"

I noticed that there are a number of connectors coming out of the controller that are not connected to anything, but I guess that's normal There is also one, with three wires, inside a thick, black cover (see pic) that is unconnected. There is a compatible one coming from the controller, but, when they are connected, nothing happens.

A couple of the connectors from the controller (the metal 'bullet' ones) seem to be rusty. It's difficult to disconnect them, due to the plastic protector over them. Indeed, upon disconnecting the blue one, the wire came out, but I expect I can reconnect it somehow.

you can send Andy what you want him to test to rule out some possible causes. It won't take him long to check the parts you send in and can help you pinpoint the fault.

 

[stever1957]

I've asked Andy to simply send me a new display and controller.
I'd prefer the cost over the time.

 

[Nealh]

This from Andy at Woosh:

"Error 30 could be one of several things, the display, the controller, or the loom that runs between them. The most likely culprit would be the display. Do you want to send it in and we'll check it out for you?"

I noticed that there are a number of connectors coming out of the controller that are not connected to anything, but I guess that's normal There is also one, with three wires, inside a thick, black cover (see pic) that is unconnected. There is a compatible one coming from the controller, but, when they are connected, nothing happens.

A couple of the connectors from the controller (the metal 'bullet' ones) seem to be rusty. It's difficult to disconnect them, due to the plastic protector over them. Indeed, upon disconnecting the blue one, the wire came out, but I expect I can reconnect it somehow.

The blue would have been a phase wire , rust or a poor wire contact may have been the reason for your issues.

 

[stever1957]

Is it okay to cut away the melted plastic and have a look at those connections?

I must say, the blue wire coming from the controller compartment is not very long.

 

[Nealh]

Yes you can remove the plastic , they will need some new insulation or simply cut back to new clean wire and solder direct to each other with a bit of shrink slid up the wire first.

 

[stever1957]

Yes you can remove the plastic , they will need some new insulation or simply cut back to new clean wire and solder direct to each other with a bit of shrink slid up the wire first.

Thank you.

I'll be able to connect that okay, if I can get a new controller.
For now, I've cleaned the connection and secured it.
I've now checked all connections - still error 30.

 

[Nealh]

Error 30 will persist with failed mosfets.
Problem with error 30 is anything can cause it but often it is a comm's fault.

 

[stever1957]

It seems to me strange that Andy would consider the display to be the likely suspect, given the evidence.

 

[Woosh]

The error codes are on page 11 of the KM529 LCD manual. Download it here:

https://wooshbikes.co.uk/manuals/KM-529-LCD-Display.pdf

You initially reported error 23.
23 Motor Abnormality.
Inspect if motor phrase is well-connected; Inspect if lines are well-connected between motor phrases and controller.

Motor phase wires are the thick yellow green blue wires and you inspect also the motor cable connector. You did that already.

You later reported error 30.

30 Communication Abnormality
Inspect if lines are well-connected between display and controller.

Error 30 shows up when the 5V supply is compromised. This can be caused by a sensor or LCD or dead controller (which generates the 5V). It is the most difficult to diagnose at home if you don't have a second working bike to swap components over.
It's better if you could post some pictures. A rusty contact is undesirable and needs to be fixed but not probably the only cause.

 

[stever1957]

Thanks.

Andy is sending me a new display and an almost-new controller

 

[saneagle]

It's difficult to identify the root cause of your failure because there is often consequential damage. If the motor connector isn't in all the way, the motor stalls, the current goes right up, melts the wires and blows the MOSFETs. Likewise, a slightly loose bullet connector gets contact resistance, heats up, melts the wire, shorts to another one and blows the MOSFETs. Anything that stalls the motor, even going up a veery steep hill too slowly can cause the same problems.

 

[PC2017]

because the battery was still connected

Aye it could of been a snap, there was defo no battery connected, either way I pooed a little.

 

[stever1957]

There's a bike repairer just half a mile from us who has done some conversions.
I might ask him to install the new components.
Is insulation tape okay for those blue, green and yellow connections?